reb78

It looks really tidy for its age though and runs well in the video. The chassis looks fine on the dropbox pics - best way to tell is to give it a rub down and treat it, but it there's no huge rush for that. The rust at the bottom of that door pillar looks like the sill and bottom of the c pillar. The sill is easy enough to repair by welding in plates and you can buy c pillar repair sections - there is a thread on here of my repair to the same area, its not a hard job.

What makes you think its a 2015? The FA in that VIN is the same as mine (1989) which is the same year as Ralph's

VDO

Most people suggest the leak is wear on the shaft around the seal, so new seals rarely seem to provide a solution. Try it if you can get the arm off, but it may not work. I think Zeus used to sell a seal that sits on a different part of the shaft - I dont know if they still do or it the one they had fits the Gemmer box.

Whats the official response? Wave back? Ignore them like series drivers used to with defender drivers? Give them the middle finger?

I hope so!

I cant see it doing much. If the mechanical ones work, they are fine as they are. If you have no leaks in your fuel system, you can even do without a lift pump - I can forget to turn my electric one on and you wouldnt notice (although I am sure it adds strain to the FIP if it isnt on as that will have to work harder to pull fuel through).

They are just copying me with that battery location.... its under the seat in the 110, but because I have RRC seats in there I have to remove them to do anything with the battery!!

The Nurburgring......natural home of the Land Rover Pretender.... either that or they took a wrong turn on the way to an off road site.

Haha! I assumed it was not a common thing to do so they didnt exist and never looked. I suppose a better blank would be to remove the section that that plate/the pump bolts to, but on the other hand, leaving it in place allows easy replacement of a mechanical pump should the electric one ever fail.

Thats always been my understanding and what i was badly trying to say above.

I did it because it seemed like a sensible upgrade and also gave me the option to add a cooler to the transmission. Truthfully, a good shifting LT77 and the R380 probably arent that far apart. With my original LT77 before I bought the disaster box that started this thread shifted smoothly and didnt have the issues that some report (the output shaft splines had nearly worn down to nothing otherwise I wouldnt have changed it!).

This demonstrates why noone has a clear answer I think. I read it differently to you but no idea who is right. To me that says original chassis (i.e. the now crusty one that it left the factory with) or a new one direct from the manufacturer (I dont read it as the manufacturer being LR). Who knows....

The stumpy R380’s are around £1000. Bristol Transmissions gave me everything for a tad less than that, including the bellhousing and the release bearing and new release arm. I highly recommend them - their service was very good.

Hi DC - sorry, my answer probably isn't what you want to hear. This box had to come off every two years on average for various faults (failure to engage reverse, difficult to engage 1st, leak from front cover gasket, layshaft bearing failure, leak - that no-one ever managed to fix properly above). It always went back to the company I bought it from who fixed it (never fixed the leak) at cost each time but of course that didn't involve any form of recompense for the days to remove, days to replace and the time off of the road in between. This leak was followed by yet another failure where the 1-2 syncro spacer appeared to have cracked in half and the input shaft pinion bearing also failed. The box was a disaster from day 1 so I gave up on it and came to an agreement with the supplier that if they bought the box back off of me I would take my trade elsewhere.... Bristol Transmissions built a stumpy R380 for me so that cured the leak from my point of view! I just hope my old box wasn't 'rebuilt' and passed on to someone else. A few of us wondered if the main and extension housings had been mixed up on the LT77 above as they should stay as matched pairs as I think they are machined together before they are built so ensure shafts etc are aligned. A slight misalignment could potentially cause the leak, but I never got to the bottom of it. The R380 I have now has been good so far!

I am not sure I care that much, but in Bowie's link above next to the new chassis bit it does say 'original or new and unmodified (direct from manufacturer)' next to the five points - a secondhand chassis isn't direct from the manufacturer and the use of the clarification around new suggests original means the one it left the factory with in this instance?

About time Mo. Andy offered to sort out a blanking plate for me above but I never heard back after this. I cut the pump diaphragm section off of the old pump on mine and removed the pump arm and then filled the hole with JBWeld or similar. Its held fine so far, but a blanking plate would be tidier. @vulcan bomber might be able to make something up fairly easily. A piece of 6mm plate or similar cut to size would probably do the job?

Sorry Ralph, not been on today so only just seen this. Its a bit of a trek really so don't worry. Given the replies on here, I need to try the other trailer and see what that does - that could rule out the car and implicate the trailer. I am sure it was working at one point yesterday but stopped soon after I embarked on the journey.... Its a 7 pin plug so I might blast it with some electrical cleaner and see what that does... Will report back...

Thanks chaps. The bulb definately works as the telltale trailer light triggers on for the first flash of the indicators with and without a trailer connected. I did replace the flasher relay last year. I cant remember if I have towed since then though! I replaced like for like though and the telltale definately flashed before that with the trailer indicators. It also flashes as it should with the hazards.

As above, my trailer tell tale for the indicators on the dash isn't working. The trailer lights ARE working and everything has normal bulbs not LEDs. Any ideas? Its a 1989 110.

Someone has put some hideous graffiti on the side as well!

At least they got on with it. Gerry's spawn took five years to gestate into the monster it became....

You are right - I hadn't made the distinction. I can see the likeness between the Bronco Sport and the Pretender. I prefer the full blown Bronco out of the three for sure.... !

That image looks quite different to the vehicles pictured here: It's like its been fiddled with to make it look like the defender when in reality it looks a fair bit better?

He looks like just the type who will buy the new defender. I cant remember when I last saw someone in a roll neck...maybe he is covid ready - he can just unroll it up over his face. Very prepared.