reb78

So... a bunch of random pics of my setup. The RRC seats in the front of the 110 make the speaker box more complex than it needs to be. The sub is ten inch. It has a grill and covering on the back to protect against feet so is well protected and hidden - you wouldn't know it was there from looking. It needs re-covering now really - its one of those when I get round to it jobs and these pics were about ten years ago! The amp is just one from Halfords for £60 I think - it really doesnt need to be anything special to drive one sub. But the base is a good addition as the 4 and 6 inch speakers cant pump out that much and this means you can turn the sub setting up to deal with the base and not stress them too much. The speaker setup in the back is shown. Personally I wouldn't put them in the rear door as low down as L19MUD - they will get bashed and damaged and the second you load the back up it will mess up the sound so I went for mounting high up in the back corners. The front speakers are in the standard position although I did have to make a spacer ring for the passenger side as they were deep and fouled the wiper motor without. All of my speakers are reasonably priced Kenwoods - nothing to break the back, but as above, they are good quality. Pioneers would be good too. I really wanted to get some 6x9's in there as I have had pioneer 6x9's before and they were excellent but given my chosen locations I couldn't fit them in easily. My fader is set to send a little more to the rear speakers as they are able to handle a little more load. All in all it seems pretty balanced and produces a good sound and didnt cost the earth!

I do but I will need to find it. They used to be on here I think before photobucket screwed up so many forums. I will dig them out tomorrow - I have them all on a hard disk somewhere. I really like my setup. I often travel alone so the volume can be turned up and I like a moderate amount of base. You cant even see the speaker is there its so well hidden.

My setup uses decent quality two way 4 inch speakers in the normal position in the front. I built speaker boxes that sit in the two upper rear corners of the 110 that house a 6 inch three way speaker each. The centre console has a ten inch sub built into it (facing rearwards) and powered by an amp housed in the battery box. I use a Sony headset - not expensive but chucks out enough to power the speakers well. The setup sounds really good. You need to house the speakers in something to get a decent sound hence headlining mounted ones are never going to do a great job IMO. The doors are too narrow and packed already so there is nowhere better than the standard location in the front and my speaker boxes in the back seem to work quite well.

I like spinny vinyl (much better than spotify!!!!!!!) but the options for that are limited in a land rover. The sound setup in my 110 is excellent - I will post the config tomorrow (am listening to actual spinning vinyl now)

Hard to make this one out. If it goes forward with the OD fitted, it should go backwards!

I am pretty sure the 'other' slot is a variable size as its there to balance the flywheel?? So one is exactly where it needs to be for the timing, the other is to balance the hunk of metal that is flying round at engine rpm's so a thin slot where the woodruff key is at 12 o clock is the correct one for the timing pin.

Yeah - just looked back and edited my post above. I dont think you can lock them - unless he had a tool to do it (doesnt sound like he has any more tools than you or I though!)

I wouldnt remove the pulley yet. When your DTI arrives, you can check if it needs removing and if it needs taking off, do it then. Is this a 300tdi or 200tdi pump? I dont think you cant lock the 300tdi pumps but the 200 you can Edit - just looked back - its a 300tdi. I dont think you can lock that pump so I dont know how he did it. The 200tdi's have a bolt where you remove a spacer, do the bolt up and it holds the shaft in place.

You know when the right flywheel slot is roughly in place as the woodruff key on the crank lines up with the mark on the timing case (i.e. the key is at 12 o clock). Gut feeling is that in changing the seal on the front of the pump, the person who did it disturbed the pump timing - I dont really see that they have done the job properly without retiming it?

I will be interested to hear what you think of it once fitted Mav. I spoke to Pete at Bell Autos about one of his VGT turbos for my 200tdi. When I explained I was happy with the bottom end performance and wanted a little more when driving at 70 on the motorway, he said not to bother changing from standard.

How much is Gwyns now? I got the one from him and didnt think it was too bad - i am sure it came with new bolts too.

Hmm. If he removed the front to change the seal, he has disturbed the timing whether he wanted to or not! There must be a reason for it, but I never understood why there wasn't a keyway in that shaft to set the front where the pulley connects. I dont know the process for setting the timing on these in detail, but others on here do, and with a dti, you should be able to do it I think. Hopefully someone will confirm the process.

You dont want to pull the front off the pump without being able to time the pump! I would get whoever changed the seal to check they timed it properly.

Gosh that was painful to watch! I had to skip through the last 8 mins and just watch parts as it was so painful. How much will that damage cost to repair? £2k?! I clipped and bent the front bumper on my 110 the other day. Ratchet strap, gate post and hammer and its largely not noticeable now....!

Yep^^ Do this. Get the cam and flywheel in the right place then slacken the three bolts on the FIP and then put a socket on the centre bolt of the FIP and turn the correct way so that the drill bit slips in, then tighten up the bolts. Also - not sure it matters, but is that an FIP timing plate under the camshaft sprocket bolt? I am sure mine is just a large washer with a groove in it - there are two o rings under there (one under the head of the bolt, one in the groove of the washer to stop oil leaks.

I would replace the timing belt again though if it has been doused in diesel... That looks like a fair leak?

I thought there were two gallery seals per caliper - top and bottom?

May be ring/email Zeus? I think I had to when I last got bits from them and they had more stuff than on their website.

Would Zeus stock them Ralph? Just looked on their website but there's not as much on there as there used to be. Sure they used to sell all of these bits though.

I suppose all of the times is also some of the times?

Just the name. Its just playing on the name, nothing else, because it shares nothing else with the original other than the name.

I'd give up smoking if I were you Mutley.

The oversized tdi intercoolers are reverse flow so the air travels in one side across the top (I think) of the intercooler, then back across the bottom to the same side - this reduces the pipework needed as the turbo outlet and inlet manifold are on the same side of the engine. On the TD5 the turbo is one side and the inlet manifold the other so the intercooler is set up so the inlet is on one side ad the outlet is on the other. So.... if you fit the TD5 one to your tdi, you will need a big pipe to go from one side of the car to the other which might i suppose might increase air temps and negate the use of that intercooler.

I've always thought that this was a but pointless. The wategate is there to protect the turbo as much as anything isnt it? I dont know what the difference would be between the reading at the inlet manifold and the turbo, but surely you would still need to set the boost to whatever limit you choose at the turbo? So if there is a difference of 2psi between what is measured at inlet manifold and turbo (presumably less at the inlet manifold?), if you wanted to limit the boost to protect the turbo at 14psi, you would just set the wastegate to open at 12psi if you are measuring at the inlet manifold? If you set it to 14psi, the turbo would see 16psi?

I think Snagger means that if you set the boost pressure to 14PSI and then change the intercooler it will still make 14PSI, just a little slower due to the increased volume hence the increased lag to hit full boost. Increasing boost on a normal size intercooler increases charge intake temps, but fitting a larger intercooler and more cooling should allow you to increase the pressure you are running at.