reb78

This is my understanding. I run a Brunel Performance standard size high flow intercooler (so i think a slightly bigger volume to an OEM one but better cooling) and have it set at 1.4-1.5 bar max, but that means that I can comfortably stick at 1.0 - 1.1 bar with the overdrive engaged at 70-75mph on the motorway. I cant get 1.5 bar of boost when in 5th + OD so have used this to set my max boost to ensure i have that little bit of acceleration when needed on the motorway. Shift to 4th and it can go up to 1.4-1.5 bar at full throttle, but you manage that by not completely burying your foot! Its been like this for about 8 years with no real issues. I did blow a head gasket about 1.5 years ago but it was likely the original one at about 250k miles I think. The engine is tip top. I run a boost gauge and just control it via the wastegate

Have a read of the PDF I posted here:

Cellulose Thinners perhaps - I had some luck with white uPVC windows that I had splashed creosote on. No way was that just wiping off, but the thinners almost melt the surface and take a thin layer off. Try it on a small area first!

I tried my old defender front seats in the rear of my 110 - I just could not find a height that would work. I cant see it being that different to a 109 but I gave up!

Ooops.... we have now!

Still not reached the magic 100!

I have range rover classic seats in the front of my 110 - they are brilliant. I often travel 4+ hours in one go an they are spot on for my height and size. They may not suit everyone. The rear of the 110 has freelander rear seats fitted. I have modified the wheel arches to move them 4" further back than they would sit without modifications. Overall they fit well. They could do with being 3-4" wider across the vehicle, but if they were, the seat backs would need modification to fold past the seatbelt attachement at shoulder height to the C pillar.

Nonsense. My 110 floats along very smoothly on less than perfect tarmac. The suspension is all setup properly and the bushes are all in good order.

You will need to put a whole day aside for that one.

I got my first ever pair of prescription suglasses last year. They were aviators (fake ish ones) but I could use them because they were prescription. Maybe I am ready for a Pretender....

Yup, Mo knows me well. Walk away Gary and buy a 9/16" ring spanner and crawl under the truck yourself. If you need a decent garage AJD at Hoddesdon is worth a shout. An abbreviated version of a conversation with your 'specialist'.... just for a laugh... Me - I need a fan belt for a 200tdi Defender spec engine Them - What year is the vehicle? Me - It's 1989 but that isn't relevant as I have changed the engine Them - But I need the year to work out the engine and the belt you need Me - But I already told you, it's irrelevant as I have changed the engine. It's a Defender spec 200tdi Them - Is the turbo high or low? Me - It's a Defender spec engine so high turbo Them - So you need a fan belt for a Defender spec 200tdi engine....? I only go there when I am desperate have a lot of time for the nonsense above and cant wait for mail order.

Very nice. Very satisfying job. I am having a beer with you.

Thats a good point ^^^ the UJ's are replaceable so unless the sliding joint has gone or there is play where the caps have spun then it may be fixable (even the latter can be mended with a punch).

Depends on the propshaft you need but just to give you an idea - for a 300tdi 110 rear prop (you dont say 90 or 110 or front or rear prop) - https://www.lrdirect.com/FTC3905-Propshaft-Rear-110-300Tdi-V8/?keep_https=yes The Hardy Spicer, Bailey Morris or GKN options would be good although I am sure I have read somewhere that Hardy Spicer isn't what it was That's the part cost and the labour is to undo and 8 nuts, remove and replace prop and tighten up 8 nuts.... So it shouldn't break the bank... Given your location, I am curious as to the 'specialist' you are using, because there is one local to you who will make a big palaver over a simple job like this and probably charge over the odds with a britpart/non branded prop thrown in.....

I think lo-fi is right. A lot of people wont bother checking so you have done more than many! Remove the play but just as far as it spins easily....

I will buy it when it drops sub £10k secondhand (if any get there and they arent scrapped due to electrical failures that cost the earth). Probably to replace the current disco 3 we have or the L322 I would love to replace the D3 with next. I spend a max of about £7k on these vehicles, but buy carefully, own them outright and maintain them myself. These are all for use mainly on tarmac though, occasionally wet fields, with a fair bit of road towing. The D2 and the 110 will still be running throughout all of this though as none of the above are real replacements for them. These are the best value for money in terms of longevity and ease of maintenance. I expect the 110 to outlive me. None of the others will!

That looks tidy. Its a ****ty job to do but good to have it done! I have a new bulkhead for mine because I cant bring myself to do the repairs you have done! Now I cant motivate myself to do the bulkhead swap because I may as well do a chassis at the same time. Then I think I know what will actually happen and the 110 will get stripped to do a panel by panel re-spray and rebuild!

This was mine -

I cant tell easily from your picture but i think you are going too hard on it. I would just recover onto what you have.

Hatfield seemed embarrassed to be selling the last of the original defenders when we went in there in about 2014. Tucked at the back of the show room in a dusty corner. Tea boy on duty to show it to second rate customers like myself.... They didn't seem to know the vehicle at all. Certainly didn't want my crusty 25 (at the time) year old 110 parked near their forecourt!

Yep ^ as Ralph says - the hole will have crusty antifreeze in it/show a visible leak if it is coming from there.

Same. The video 'review' in the next post about the new 'Defender' from the bloke sat in a chair in front of a webcam who hasn't seen it or driven it or done anything with it is the same too. JLR perpetuate the nonsense though by calling every LR series ever produced the Defender too - even they don't understand their own product!

My water pump on the 200tdi went just like this, but there was a tell tale smear of blue down the front of the engine where the antifreeze had dried off and left deposits. It will get blown about a bit where the fan pushes air back. Best time to look is after a run when the system is hot and still pressurised. I had a further weep on the thermostat housing bypass hose. It was old/original pipe and the connector had rusted a little on the pipe to the back of the head allowing it to leak a little. It was hard to find as the drip was onto the exhaust manifold stud beneath so it dried when running, but left the bolt head wet when it was cool enough!

I get dirty every time I touch my land rover! You are right though - painting the surface that is seen from the back would be wise - even with crappy paint you will see when it needs re-doing.

I kind of gave up with paints - every 'i like this x' answer to this question was followed by 'x is rubbish' by someone else so there never seems to be any agreement. On my chassis, I steam clean and waxoyl straight onto the dried surface. Its held up rather well really, any rot is from the inside where you just cant get a waxoyl lance easily (on the 110 on the higher sections of the A frame cross member).