Steve 90

I noticed a huge difference with the exhaust. First I had full length with silencer and it was pretty much as standard. Then I had a side exit, which would have been approx 2/3 the original length, slightly larger bore with silencer and there was little difference. I then removed the silencer which made a small difference and the engine felt to have a small amount of extra power. The biggest difference came when I built the exhaust back to Full length without silencers. It revs quicker and more freely and throttle response has been improved making it much more controllable. Not sure why but I can only assume it has something to do with scavenging better. Dont underestimate the difference a good air supply will make. I changed to a slightly smaller air box and it killed the motor. Would not pull up banks in second or third that were no effort before. Changed back and all was well again. Im now in the process of piping the air intake out the back with 3" pipe right from the turbo. As far as the heat lagging is concerned. In the late 90's or maybe year 2000 Kawasaki started putting a thermal coating on the front part of the exhaust system on their 2 strokes saying that keeping the heat in the exhaust for a few more inch's before it cooled was making them scavenge better and giving very good results.

Maybe so. But it also annoys me when people do things by numbers because very often in the world of all things off road (and many other areas for that matter) you can not reproduce all the many many variables in a mathematical/scientific calculation. I spent 16 years racing MX, involved with various race teams, spent a lot of time with suspension specialist and also spent quite some time building rally cars. Time and time again it was proved that what works best "on paper" just doesn't always cut it and every time the best results were got from what feels right. I ignore the numbers and the claims and I speak as I find. If it feels good to drive then I do it. If it feels rubbish then it gets thrown away, as simple as that. Im sorry if this sound like the reply you were sure you were going to get but maybe there is a reason for that. They do work even if the numbers don't back them up. Sorry Si, No offense intended, As I said, I just speak as I find. Steve.

That looks like a drilling for a grease nipple or other form of lubrication to me. The grease nipple on mine is in that exact spot. Its probably left blank as it depends what application its used for what lubrication system would be used. Easiest to get some grease nipples and tap a thread to suit.

Ah, Were our local tyre seller too but our suppliers get them to order if we ask nicely! Sorry, Im Not really a lot of help then.

Most tyre places will sell them. Try your local ones. Probably best with the ones that do more agri/comercial stuff than your high street ATS.

Right, Bad news les. The 300 disco has an extra set of mountings bolt holes further back on the block to take the mounts which are NOT on the 200! I still havn't looked at a 300 defender to see if its the same as the disco yet. As soon as I do I'll let you know.

Yes, The X joint does have more movement but its not needed. The jonny joint has more than enough. I run gwyn lewis mounts and 11"OME shocks (which is more than enough movement for any challenge motor) with the gigglepin arms. I can articulate the axle to max on one shock, touch the bump stop on the other side and there is still quite a bit of movement left in reserve in the jonny joints so to have any more is a little pointless IMHO. The limiting factor is the A frame ball joint which Simon can sort you out for but a bit of alteration of mounting angle is a good thing there. BTW, No sensitive point. Just I beleive they are both excellent products and both deserve a fair shout!

Right by ere! Thats 3 inch pipe so with 2 1/2 it would go easily without bulkhead mods but I wanted to make sure the motors getting plenty of air.

Nope, Engine change still on the books but wont be till later in the year. This needed doing tho as the air intake was less than water tight and kept getting bashed where it was.

Had it running last night and all seems well. Oil feed/return is no different. Oil feed and normal oil pressure in the top, Return by gravity to the sump at the bottom. The take off and return are in the same places on the block and the oil pressure of a 2 and 300 are all but identical. Sounds more likely from what you describe that you had the engine breather plumbed into the pressure side of the turbo rather than the fresh air side or the breather was blocked so the crankcases couldn't vent.

Not that much time, but still too much!

Yep, Comes through just left of the fuse box. I have cut a few inch's of the passenger footwell away which I am now going to box in to give it all plenty of room as im using 3" pipe but I think it would go through without any bulk head mods if you wanted to fiddle with it enough.

Better? Matter of opinion. Both jims and si's are excellent products but cant see you can say they are better! I have Gigglepins, I love them and would take a lot of convincing to change to anything else. Back to the original question. The rose jointed arms in them selves would not cause you to need to notch the axle brackets as they will only give you the same amount of travel as before just a smother movement within that range. So if you didn't need them notched before then you shouldn't after. The travel in the shock absorber is what controls the amount of travel and if you have long shocks its quite common to have to notch the axle brackets. I think a plus 2 inch shock is just about OK but anything more will need notching.

LOL! Who's the ugly bloke in the drivers seat :lol:

Well the 300 turbo and manifold fit! And im real pleased as it all lines up perfectly to make the "through cab" air intake work out without a right mess of bends etc which is basically what I was facing with the 200. It seems a much better solution (well with the air intake in mind) than the normal ones for the disco 200 to defender conversion. I had to make a front pipe to miss the engine mount (I know the mount is U/S will be replaced tomorrow). But the front pipe is a much preferable shape, more free flowing than any of the 200 disco mods. All the other bits seem to fit nicely and access to the starter and clutch slave is much much better so it seems to be all gains at the moment. The 300 dip stick fits in the same place but is just a push fit with "O" ring on the 300 and an olive/gland nut setup on the 200 so a small adaptor had to be turned up to fit it. I think the std 300 intercooler pipework should fit as although my engine is further back the rad has also been moved. If not It wont take long to make some pipes up. So, so far im real pleased with it all.

Trouble is tho thats upgrading a 200 to 300 which means remaking chassis brackets. Im still think theres a possibility a 200 on 200disco mounts might fit a 300 chassis. Didn't get that one back in today to look at Les but im trying to get it in ASAP. Im quite curious about it now!

Basically yep. The 300 defender mounts will go onto the 200 block where the 200tdi disco bolts go! 99% sure. I am trying to find a 300 defender just to check!

Any alloy welding experts. Does anyone know if I will have problems welding some 2mm wall alloy tube with the Tig after tacking it in place with the MIG. Its one of those trial and error fit type jobs and it will be easiest (as it needs to be done on the Landrover) to tack it all together with the alloy wire in the mig before Tig'n it all together. My concern is I have done simillar with mild steel in the past only tacking together with MIG then Gas welding. Everytime Ive tried to gas weld over the Mig Tack its caused problems. I dont know why, It just has. So will it be OK to Tig over what has been tacked with the MIG? Thanks. Steve.

The trouble with an intercooler is they give brilliant results at road speeds but at low speed on a challenge event they don't get enough air flow and spend most their time blocked with mud. So the advantage is small making them quite pricey for not a huge gain. Also if you have your winch tucked right back tight to the rad (which I know Simon has) you have to move it to fit the cooler in.

Not selling up now then mate? There is talk of a direct fit VVT being available soon. Propane? Good bang for the buck im told!

I cant see any reason why, if you order it to 300 spec, build it up using a r380 (or long version lt77) and use the discovery mounting holes (the rear ones) on the 200 with the 300 type mounts there would be any problem. I am very sure they will fit as I think the basic casting of the block, as far as mounting holes and bosses are concerned, is the same. Then come time the 300 should be a direct swap. Definitely wort looking into. I had a 300 defender parked next to mine this morning and could have looked, Typical. If the bits come for it I'll have it back in tomorrow so I will take pics.

Nice, Im jealous!

A 200 tdi disco or defender? I am 99% sure all the bolt holes you need are there. To fit a 300 into a 200 defender the front pipe gets in the way of the 200 mount on the left but its very easy to sort with a small kink in the front pipe (I did it about an hour ago) on the right I think the oil filter is in the way but not sure if its possible to change oil filter housing. I was under the impression that 200 and 300 discos had the same mounts atleast they bolted in the same place. The blocks look very similar.

Brush's need to have plenty of material left, Good spring pressure against the slip ring and be clean where they contact (no burning or dirt on the brush or slip ring) Other than that they are pretty straight forward. Make sure the lead from the brush that goes to the stud through the motor body is good and all connection are clean and tight.

They wont always self diagnose and code for a MAF sensor if they are just reading low. Best way to check them is to probe into the signal wire (cant remember which one off the top of my head but a wiring diagram will tell you) with a multi meter and check that you get a rising signal that max's out at about 4.5-4.6 volts with maximum air flow which would be hard acceleration in a middle gear.