Steve 90

Nothing to do with Morals or ethics to be honest, I wouldn't have commented if that was the complaint I had with them. I had Scorpion springs that sagged badly, the rates were nowhere near what they should have been and they just didn't work very well. They may not be a lot of money but they are still expensive for what you get, Especially when you end up replacing them with something else. Thats just my opinion tho so If ya happy with them fair enough. Please don't think its anything to do with any grudge against the company as I don't get involved in all that. As for the ES9000 I put them on my truck to replace DeCarbons and in comparison they were under damped and fade terribly after about an hour or so of hard off roading making truck feel horrible, Road sections between sites become scary. The ones on my challenge truck and on my road going disco both went to leak when not that old and shafts go rusty and push the chrome off in no time at all. I welded the eyes on the top of mine as people have trouble with them breaking off. I now have OME's on the challenge truck which are brilliant. Will be putting Decarbons or something similar back on the disco. I tried to buy cheaper suspension stuff when I first built the truck as did Kris. We both regretted it, Ending up buying the decent stuff in the end after waisting money first time round.

Like the sound of that!

Pro comp shocks will match scorpion springs well as they are both ****! Gwyns challenge turrets and rear shock mounts will only work properly with the 11" shocks, the main reason for the turrets and mounts being moved up is to allow for the extra length of shock when its fuly closed. Gwyns challenge kit with the 11" OME shocks really is an excellent setup. If your going for a +2" shock stick with std height mounts.

Not been overly impressed with Dewalt stuff and wouldn't buy again. Overpriced and only average quality. Had trouble with switch's, Motors, poor batteries, broken battery contacts, gear box's and generally falling apart. Plus some of their stuff just doesn't feel good quality. My money goes Bosch or Hitachi these days. Far superior, quality and will last many times longer. I have always liked Makita but the quality seems to have been dropping recently (but so has the price) or ive been unlucky. two 4 1/2 inch grinders have burst their gear box's in 12 months (both were replaced under warranty) where as the Hitachi ive had for years is still going strong. Also a 9 1/2 inch makita grinder stripped a gear when it wasn't very old.

RD56-128 on Pirate4x4

What, That you still aint put that stuff in the post????

Fitted a 128 to the back of Kris's truck not long ago and it seems fine so far. Really dont like the air feed going over the crown wheel tho, Seems a poor idea. There was a thread about the differences between the 56 and 128 on Pirate. I'll see if I can dig it up.

How do you use a master ring to attach a snatch block to a strop? A pair of strops together? or make a diversion when winching?

Ere- http://www.oec4x4.com/index.php?option=com...0&Itemid=54 these are the ones I use along with these- http://www.oec4x4.com/index.php?option=com...9&Itemid=54 The heavy duty eye sling hook with safety catch. Anton is a top bloke and very good to deal with.

Looking for some parts for a series 2a lightweight. It has 1964 on the log book (but im told it cant be as they didn't make them till 68??) and is car No 43a. I need the vent pannel below the windscreen and the sloping pannel between the floor and bulkhead in the drivers footwell. Are these the same as a normal 2a? And does anyone know where I can get them? Please excuse my lack of knowledge as this is the first time ive had anything to do with a Lightweight/series of any kind. Many thanks in advance. Steve.

Entry sent Via Tinterweb! Fingers crossed.

Dayco or Gates are the only belts I use. Avoid Britpart water pumps, Ive had huge trouble with them. My personal preference would be genuine or a quality after market product like TRW. Probably go for genuine tensioner/idlers but aftermarket are usually fine as long as they have a quality bearing like SKF and look well made. Gates and Dayco both do Kits including tensioner and idlers for some makes/models but not sure about a landrover.

The Gigglepin top housing has a filler plug in it! Never bothered doing a drain plug in mine as it only takes ten minutes to remove the winch and split the casing. That way you can have a good look round and check everything looks good, Pop the brake off, Clean grease and refit, fresh oil and back on with piece of mind. Do mine every 2-3 events (or every event if its had a drowning) dependent on how hard they have worked, A couple of hours and you can do both which is more than worth it. Also not a bad idea to have the end off the motor/s, Clean the dust out and check the brushs/slip ring.

I cant believe it, An ideal opportunity and nobody pushed him in!

Thanks Guys, James, OEC, X eng and especially all the Marshals. Another great day. We took our day steady again we are really trying to not abuse the truck even if it means taking a little more time about stuff than we normally would. Only problem that I know of as yet was (as Mark mentioned above) a bit of a charging issue and some poorly batteries meaning we cut and run before getting the last two punch's in the bog at the quary. A quick look under the bonnet shows a pair of very poorly alt' belts, Pretty sure its due to the amount of Bog thats stuffed all around them. Mark was excellent, Worked really hard all day and I didn't have a clue what the colors of the rainbow were so the special was down to him. The standard of trucks and competition is rising all the time and the values of the punchs were again very low meaning a very close end result. Think Credit must go to James for his use of the site. I know Ive said it before but although Ive been to Wellington a few times, he again managed to use a different area in the wood where I havn't been before and change the style of punch's/ sections at the quarry. The way he changes things around keeps it all feeling fresh. Another excellent event and I cant wait until the next.

Nope, Looks nowt like it. Not tyhe best pics but this is one.

Nope, They use the same casing but there is no car with output figures any where near what is claimed of a ZF74. I think from what I could work out the ZF74 is produced for an industrial application but it has definitely not been fitted to a car. Although the ZF pumps they fit to cars that look the same would be a huge improvement over a landrover pump.

Usually 7/16 UNF although some late stuff has started going metric.

Doh, New I should have changed them, A well, Too late now the Boggers are on!

Excellent, thanks for sharing that with us. Now we know there's no body there Im off to your gaff to nic stuff off ya 90 !

Vowel? Is that anything like a mole?

Fair play, That made me chuckle.

Y ddraig goch a ddyry gychwyn

Yep, Suspension geometry is very important But how usefull are these figures in the real world. You take measurement off the vehicle in its static possition which is very much different to how it will react when driven. There are so many external factors, Spring rate, CofG, Weight transfer, reactive tourque through axle and many many more. Throughout the movement of the suspension, As the angle and length of the arms in relation to each other vary so do the figures. so you know how the suspension works when its parked but only have a rough idea when its moving. (actually, yours spend most its time parked so I take it back ) I have a small amount of experience with Motorsport engineering and have a good friend who spent years working in suspension development for some of the biggest teams (also called Mark funilly enough) who always says they wasted years building the perfect setup on paper and didn't make any real progress untill they decided to relly more heavily on "track based testing and development" (trial and error to you or I) And didn't pay too much attention to how it should be. Knowing what mark is doing and having seen the proposed setup. During the main of driving, powering up hill etc etc, where the anti squat is most important, the links will be at a point in their arc where the link length variation will be minimal. Therefore the difference in height of A frame joint will have very little effect and be not too much different from std. Bearing in mind the std LR setup is a pretty good comprimise (yes, I know its far from perfect but it works as well as most things) I think it will be fine. The main difference will come at the extreams of articulation, Droop and bump, at these positions Anti squat etc is pretty irelevent.

Stop p*****g around and weld the brackets on the axle will you. The axle casing will have rusted away and you will have suffered a breakdown from worrying about it before you get to use your truck! If its not ready for the SWMC you will be sulking coz were all having fun and you cant go like last year. :D