Steve 90

Oi, we got plenty up ere if you want us to bring a couple of pretty ones down for ya !

Just buy a new rod end, Cut the original off and re weld the new one just a little more carefully than it has been done in those pictures, very easy to do.

Ive done it that way with an ARB but there is not a lot of room to get past the diff pin. Think I used a 6mm punch welded to a length of bar but still only just managed to get it moving before the punch bent. The shafts twist in the diff which is what makes them jam so solidly.

Looks pretty simple, I think (if ya talking about the 4x4adventures system) Each punch is worth 200 points divided by the number of people that get the punch down to a minimum punch score of 10 points. Thats the way it looks if you work it back from the results sheets. so 1 person gets a punch its 200 points, 2 get its worth 100 points, 3 get its worth 66 points and so on.

Another well run event, Thanks to James, OEC, Xeng, all the marshals and anyone else that helped make it possible. Well done to Jase and Rich, You were on top form and really showed the rest of us up this weekend, Brilliant work fella's. I have no idea what we were up to all day, Just seemed to be needlessly over complicating everything and taking too long about it. Never mind we'll give ourselves a slap and try and get our act together for the next one. Also seemed to spend age's trapped, surrounded with people doing punch's waiting to be able to move around the site, Quite frustrating but I guess it must have been the same for everyone. Damage wasn't too bad, Two winch ropes broken, two battered doors and a bent rock slider. The special was surprisingly tricky, Again thanks to pike for coming up with a plan and guiding us through. If it were left to me I'd have been lost up the far end somewhere and run out of time. I was very upset when I had to winch out of the wood at the end and someone drove out behind me, Then had to chuckle to myself when it all became clear yesterday morning, I checked tyre pressures before going for a play and found them all to be 30psi :lol: Let them down and things all seem better again now! Just to say in Kris's defense with the door being ripped open on punch 22(I think thats the right number) he was the first to do it and the rock was sticking out of the bank a good 4 inch's further before he broke it off with his truck/door/bulkhead making it much easier for people to get buy with less or no damage. Thanks again to all those involved in making it all possible.

Well yes but I was trying not to be so blunt !

If you google it you will find on line calculators that you just stuff the figures into and its done.

Mmmm, cheap enough but looks a bit agricultural compared to the parker front pipe. Im just about to take the 200 disco manifolds off mine and fit 300tdi ones which I got from a breakers for a few quid more than the parker front pipe. Main reason for doing so is its perfect for a through cab raised air intske but everything (exhaust, intake and inter cooler pipes) seems to fit much nicer without the tight fiddly bends. Also its far less cluttered and cramped, Much easier for maintenance.

Ahhhhh, My eyes hurt its so bright!

11" ome, Front and rear. Very pleased with them and worth every penny.

Sorry but 18 months on a 100% ROAD going disco and only 6 months on an off roader is not value for money at any price. Even when new they were rubbish. The damping was so poor that my 90 used to tramp the axle badly when on rough hill climbs which was never a problem with the decarbons I had previously. Decarbons get a slating but the fact of it is they work and last better than pro comp and are near enough the same price. I now have OME which are more expensive but worth 20 times more than a pro comp and in comparison much better value for money. In fact thinking about it im sure there's a trading standards issue in there somewhere as im sure they are not fit for the purpose they are sold for. 18 months on a road going vehicle is very poor even for a "budget" shock.

Nowt wrong with that, A top job ya doing there fella! Like the use of box for the cross member, much better than any replacement cross member you could buy.

Ive heard that said many times before :lol:

Well done guys, Excellent result.

Not had any experience of rough country but pro comp are poor. Ive had them on my 90 and disco, Both sets failed, one within six months and the others at 18 month. They do however replace them but id rather just have a decent product to start with. They were under-damped from new for both on and off road, faded with an hour or so off roading and the shafts rust quickly. They are cheap but not good value for money, they should at least work better and last a good deal longer!

Passenger seat and heater maybe but I'll stick with 12v before I get rid of the carlsberg! I carry it instead of spanners as an emergency kit in the event of breakdowns!

Yep, Makes sense. Not sure if I should give it a try and see if I can get away with it or not or just go with a third battery which I really didn't want to do.

Thats the way the Gordon (first bloke I spoke about) put it. He said its common practice and the difference in level of batteries will just equalize!

As Les says, Take the motor out, No contest.

OK, but why's it not advised? As for 24v its more than tricky with a TD5!

Yep, Know it will drain the one quicker than the other but was wondering if it would balance out across the batteries somehow and the alt would cope or not? I wasn't convinced either way, you obviously think not! A local chap who does a lot with electrics/electronics says its not uncommon practice to tap different voltage feeds off at various points along packs of cells and its fine ass they draw the overall voltage down, The alt will charge and push it back up. Spoke to another chap who says (as you do) that the alt wont charge the lower cells properly! So I'm kinda looking for a definite answer with some reasoning/science to back it up.

Will shortly be going 24v for the winch's on my truck but not keen to be adding an extra battery for the vehicle electrics. I was hoping to only run 24v alternators (no 12v at all) then hook my two original batteries in series for the 24v. I can then tap 12v for the vehicle electrics off just one of the batteries in the 24v pack. My question is will the alternator sense the batteries properly and charge them both correctly? As six of the cells will have more drain on them than the other six will it cause problems or will they just balance out? Ive spoken to a few people who have given different points of view but no real sure answer. So Can anyone who knows a thing or two about electrical principles cast some light on the subject? (electrical principles was always on a Thursday morning following student night so its all a blur to me ) I want to keep the system simple and not add too much complication so it seems the perfect fix assuming it will work. Otherwise I'll have to run a 12v and 24v alternator and a 3rd battery which i'm not keen on. Many thanks. Steve.

One extra thing I should add about the bolts Tony, I bought bolts with the correct length plain part of the shank so the rose joint, drop arm, spacers and ram all sat nicely on a 3/4" plain shaft then made the final washer just the right thickness to allow the nut to tighten down without running out of thread. Then drilled the thread above the nut to take a small split pin for safety and cut it to length. Also I kept the spacers between the rose joint, drop arm and ram only .125" thick to keep the bolt as short as possible so it was a much more rigid setup and gave more clearance under the drop arm end of the drag link. The misalignment spacers ive seen have all been quite thick so you may want to modify them a bit.

Looks promising. I use the Bearmach HD rods and they machine/ thread really nicely. I did mount it in the lath to drill and start the tap so I could be sure it was square.

Thanks for the pic Tony. The 200 has a stub on the block for the return which looks at a guess about 7/8" diameter thread. not sure what the 300 is like but I'm sure its possible to machine up an adapter of some sort. If it comes to it I'll braze a boss into the sump and make a piece of pipe. Bits are paid for and on their way now, Still short of oil feed pipes. Once I get the turbo I can measure the inlet and order a silicone hose reducer sleeve and some 3" stainless (or maybe aluminium) tube. Then I should be in business. Got some stuff to move off the bulkhead (ARB comp etc) where its going to pass through first though.