Steve 90

Cheers Walfy, That re assures me that it will fit atleast. Anyone else with any experience! Would like to get turbo etc on its way ASAP (Tomorrow ) but am still a little unsure! Are all the 300 turbo's cast into the manifold (rather tan a separate bolted together item like the 200) or just the disco ones.

Yea I know, which is when I will change it. But as I said it doesn't even have the slightest trace of play yet.

Some people have just removed the pressure relief valve from the pumps and run them sealed with a small quantity of oil for lubrication. Think if I was doing it I would make some sort of bracket to take an idler in place of the PAS pump. If its a plain/flat pulley it would be simple to make with a couple of sealed roller bearings. If its a ribbed pulley then many modern cars run idlers with a bearing built into them which would be ideal to mount there. Making the bracket and keeping it square to ensure good belt life would be a bit tricky but easy enough with some care. Not sure what access to machinery (I.E. Mill and lathe) you have, that might be your biggest problem.

Does the back side of the belt (the flat side) run against the PAS pump then Tony, I assume it must if the Pump runs backwards. Might be worth asking Saley, Im pretty sure he has a ZF pump running in the conventional direction mounted up high.

Yep, The bolts are the same ones you got me Jase. Sorry Tony only just got home from work and was about to Measure the size for you. The spacers either side of the rose joint and between the ram and arm are all just some off cuts of mild steel bar I turned in the lathe. They are .750" ID x .875" OD x .125" thick. I see you can get misalignment spacers from most rose joint suppliers which are "off the shelf" and will do the same thing. It was all just knocked up out of whatever I had kicking around at the time with the intention of making some tidy stainless versions when I was sure it was all working OK.

Just to add to what Chris said, The idea of a "OBC style" special appeals to me also. Some kind of mix of speed section with a few obstacles or technical sections to winch through all against the clock.

Real pleased but it smarts a bit to have the most punch's then a real bad special. If I'd have known we didn't have enough rope to reach the tires we would have done the trial type special, Only reason we didn't go for it in the first place was I am so afraid of breaking shafts these days I thought it best not too. Easy to be wise after tho!

:rofl: Well it was an anniversary celebration so I chose to celebrate properly! P.S. Thanks for carrying me back to the tent

I fully intend fitting a boot to mine, Just have not got around to it yet. Everyone told me the rose joint wouldn't last 5 mins but it has done 3 4x4 adventures round, An AWDC round and countless hours rasping around the woods here and still has no trace of play in it. It was only a cheap joint I used so even if I have to fit 2-3 (at pressent rate I wont even need that) a year I'm worried. Cant remember the bolt length but I have a spare sat on the dash of my discovery so as soon as my apprentise has 5 minutes I'll send him to get it and check (its raining outside you see )

Just in the process of getting rid of my snorkel and fitting an air intake that goes through the cab and sits nice and high up the rear cage. Problem is I run a disco 200 in my 90 which would need a really nasty looking bend where the intake goes into the turbo. Defender 200 turbo/manifold setups are rarer than rocking horse **** but 300's seems readily available and the intake points conveinently straight at the bulk head in the perfect place. I think otherwise a slight modification of front pipe to clear the engine mount and it will be on. My question (now I have all that drivel out the way) is what are the differences in size and output etc between the 300 and 200 units and is there likely to be any difference in power delivery (good or bad) when fitting the 300 unit to the older engine? Has anybody done this? and did it work ok?

Excellent event, really enjoyed it. Thanks to all for their hard work making it possible. Bit gutted at our dismal attempt at the special. Didn't think it would be a great time as the winch spools out quite slowly. Then it went from bad to worse when we realized we were about 40 feet short on rope and didn't have enough strops etc to even get close to the furthest pile of tyres:( . Don't suppose anyone on here has pics/video of our Roll???? Hope to be back for another Howling wolf very soon.

I wouldn't use the swan neck type as ive seen them break at the swan neck on normal PAS never mind the extra force of the hydro assist. (one at last years TFC and Adrian has broken two this year) Also mounting it onto the drag link effects the steering feel quite a lot and I really didn't like it on the road. Mounting it to the top of the drop arm it drives perfectly at normal road speeds (well as good a a challenge truck on boggers can be expected too) The disco drag link is longer. The disco/RRC drop arms are easy to get hold of, There's plenty of them in breakers. I was in a hurry doing mine so bought a new one and it wasn't much money. At Seven Sisters on Saturday I was thinking to myself just how pleased I am with the setup the way it is now, Its perfect (in my humble opinion) If I ran the ram on the track rod I wouldn't be able to run the track rod guard which on the rock sections and tree stumps is worth its weight in gold. I know its a bit of a pain getting taps etc Tony but a assure you its rock sollid and a brilliant job after, More than worth the extra bit of effort.

Nearly ready, Few small jobs then Refit the ropes and load up! Just gota get work out the way first.

Does anyone know what the difference in front anti roll bar between a 200 and 300 disco? They have different part numbers! Will the 300 fit on a 200?

As Les says 18. I used to run no less than 16-18 before beadlocks. Anything less and I kept pushing tyres off rims. At 16 you'll still do it but much less often. 18 seems pretty reliable. Fitting tubes stopped them being pushed off but kept ripping valves off then!

Am I right in thinking a 300tdi turbo has the air intake at the rear and exhaust at the fron but is basically set up the same as the 200 disco otherwise? If so does anyone have any pic's? Im actually trying to run my air intake back through the truck cab and have the snorkel on the outside of the rear bulkhead but the 200 disco setup would need a right mess of tight bends etc so I am looking for a better, neater solution.

Just set them to have a reasonable amount of drag, your judgement is more than good enough to set them up. Not enough so as it is stiff to turn but tight enough that it wont just swing freely by itself and it will be perfect. Also check free play in the steering box, Ball joints and the damper.

Did you have any joy with the pic's? Just going to start mine so as many ideas as possible would be great!

Just looking into swapping the manifolds on my 200 tdi (disco engine in 90) to get the turbo in the defender position. Can anyone tell me if the Turbo's are the same? In other words will I just need manifolds and pipe work to fit my disco turbo to or will I need the whole lot? Cheers. Steve.

Not all welders are rated equally tho, one manufacturers 180 amps is very different to another.

Depends what you do but my advice would be do nothing until you find an area where the truck is lacking for your intended purpose then look into improving it in that area.

Portamig? Never heard of them but sounds good! Will see if I can find a dealer.

I use my welder much the same as yours Les, One day welding a rusty Escort turned right down and the next welding a 10mm winch tray into a landrover. We have an Oxford 170 (the older Green one before the changed colour and also seemed to take a downturn in quality, something about cheaper aluminium coils ive been told) which is brilliant. The 170 amp rating is way under its actual output as it will happily weld 8-10mm all day long equally as well as any 250 and then turn it down to weld a rusty car sill or exhaust with ease. We recently looked at changing it as it just seemed time to do so. Had a 250 butters on demo for a week and it was only equally as good on the heavy stuff certainly not any better plus after about 3/4 of an hour went off form slightly until left to cool which is something ive never suffered with the oxford. The main issue being it was not so good on the thin stuff, Very difficult to get a decent looking weld and awkward to find a balance between decent penetration and blowing a hole. Also went to do some welding for a friend with the same welder and found the same issue with the welder not liking running turned up for long periods. At the moment were stuck for finding a replacement. There just does not seem to be a welder out there at the moment which is happy with the thinner stuff and the thicker stuff so we may well end up buying two, A smaller (150??) Butters for the tin work and a larger unit (300+??) for the heavy stuff. Ive heard good things about Miller, Anyone tried them? Know where I might be able to get one on demo unit for a week??

I'm real keen but then realized theres a date clash with the local show fund raising weekend which I really cant miss! Bu**er!

Did you have any joy with these Tony?