steve b

The other box probably has a stuck diff lock dog if it drives the gear train disengaged. The one you built looks to be ok from your description Steve

Glad it's all ok Steve

With the diff lock disengaged you will need to hold one flange stationary and turn the other to confirm the selector is working and the gear train all turns Steve

@Daan maybe this should be in the Defender forum or International? @miketomcat - I would suggest pre-registration SVA compliance is not the same as a roadside check by DVSA of vehicles on the road? Steve

Good to hear that it's sorted. full throttle opens up the flow in the IP with the DPA pump which all helps with bleeding. Steve

I don't see how parts such as bodywork being swapped make it illegal - surely it's just the disc brake rear axle and engine(s) that might raise questions but even that is unlikely as both are common upgrades and within the standard 90/Defender90 build sheets. Ok , the 4.6 was never an option but the RV8 is. I also see no need to scrap what is left if the '85 is built onto the stamped galv chassis. Steve

once the chassis is stamped it is then for that one vehicle. Building it up as a different truck would make a road side check very traumatic indeed... build it up with the correct reg for the VIN. If it was not stamped it is then a replacement component. Steve

It depends on which type pump - Tdi style with unions on the top is down on the hand lever and the side mounted unions (AC delco) type the lever pulls up to prime Steve

Fill the filter as you said and loosen one injector pipe and crank on the starter with the throttle pedal on the floor until it fires - in 15 sec cranks so the starter doesn't throw it's teddies Steve

A couple of thoughts Is there any mileage in converting an existing adaptor ring from a different engine to the LR g/box? I have one for a 4203 to S3/Defender box and another of unknown engine side kicking around here.. On the casting side , you will need a lot of heat to melt the volume needed and pre-heat the mould. Volume of cast could be estimated using sand to fill the cavities to be cast and a kitchen measuring jug Cutting the source aluminium into small pieces will speed up the melt too Steve

According to the factory parts book I have, that M/C is both 88 and 109, so yes Steve

Hi, I've recently looked at a Ex-MOD 109 FFR (big generator and 24v) and have the plate details so would like to know what info is there. Serial no. 91109*** D Con no. FVE 22A774 Reg no. 36 AJ 10 code no, 1705 0778 NSN 2320-99-893-3971 The plan is to re-comission it to a useable state with it's now fitted HT and rear door for the owner. Thanks for any info. Steve

That is the dual circuit S3 master cyl. which will fit early servo (single circuit) too. Steve

Primarily , yes, but they will still add to a firm location . The main point of my post was to have as big a head to ally contact area as possible. It is a smooth V8 petrol and not a 800hp blown 6BT after all.... Steve

A couple of dowels will deal with that. I think with the csk heads I'd have bigger heads that maybe just break out of each edge of the ally to maximise the contact surface Steve

Limestone wheels , obviously the only correct colour

Thanks for your input Eightpot. always good to have a professional clear up any doubts - I had not looked at the link the OP posted but I will next time. Steve

As far as I know polyurethane and synthetic enamel are the same , the latter being the motor re-finishing trade name. Seam sealer will work for years applied to a clean surface and painted over. On cutting/buffing let it cure for several weeks and be careful not to overheat if power buffing Steve

I think arctic white and alpine white are the same - and the colour you want. I'd use brushable seam sealer on the gutters as it will cure and bond well and will paint over. It's what JLR used originally. A bit more thinners will help in hot weather with synthetic enamel . At least it's white, just imagine how many bugs if it was yellow.... Steve

Agreed This will work, I'm confident. After all it follows the whole ethos of your build, made from what you have lying around Steve

A bit too accurate as well for a public forum? Anyhoo , as mentioned above , check the drive belt while it's off to check the WP bearings. Re-fitting it the other way round sometimes stops the squeak Steve

Yes, this is 300 Tdi onward direct acting cable type - a worthwhile upgrade from the earlier linkage type imo Steve

Would countersunk screws give you any more room instead of socket caps? Or socket button head? If you do end up casting this adaptor can be used as a pattern, just build it up with filler to the desired shape/ draught angles to suit? Steve

The "pistons" should move quite a distance - how does the new pre-assembled one compare? clips 515468 plate- spring to back plate from top 515467 plate- locking next from bottom 515470 plate- packing finallly from bottom. The boot 515466 then fits over the edge of 515467 hth Steve

Credit where it's due, together you have made it work on many levels, not least external aesthetics I like it a lot Steve