Jimmy Two-Jacks

That chassis bracket was what I needed to figure out...fantastic thnx. I have chopped the stays from the hoop to refix them ontop of the wheel boxes and I have been thinking of constructing a connecting bracket out of the same spec tube and some 6mm plate I got kicking about that joins up with the rear chassis legs and bolts through the chassis legs with a crush tube. To fix the back stays as the rear crossmember although it is sound it looks like bacofoil in comparison to the 6mm stuff. Thanks again. J2J

Thanks that's given me some gauge and configuration ideas. thanks. J2J

I have searched honest

Hi All a couple of years ago I bought a second hand but never fitted roll hoop ,without any chassis fixings. Well it has been a great climbing frame come den with tarp over it for my little girl but now is time for its true purpose to be realised . I know I run the risk of valid question like "why did you buy a hoop of unknown manufacture without mounts?" PRICE..... it was bought from a chap that had run out of steam before finishing his project. The fixings having been lost during a house move and subsequent divorce (his not mine) The hoop is a "B" hoop with diagonal. And foot plates that sit within /inboard of the wheel boxes over the chassis behind the rear bulkhead. I have no idea who made it but it is properly mandrel bent and welded. I am moving the two stays that used to brace the hoop as they sat in the same line as the feet i.e inboard of the wheel boxes. I intend to move these over the wheel boxes and need some suggestions on pick up points on the chassis/ rear crossmember for both the hoop and braces I have the facility to fabricate brackets etc and would like to know how some of you chaps have, if any approached this. Looking for suggestions and thoughts. Thanks in advance. By the way if this should have been in tools and fabrications feel free to move it...sorry J

My bonnet doesnt have a recess for the wheel as such and that has a factory fitted bonnet mount . I did find the bonnet heavy to lift (wimp) but fitted burger van counter / motor home awning hydrualic strutts and now you just pop the bonnet and give a little lift and they do the rest. You can buy bonnet reinforcements from the Bay of E http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-O-S-Spare-Wheel-Bonnet-Ring-Reinforcement-MUC6418-/150671593691 When factory fitted they are spot welded in place but you can use rivets and bolts. I wouldnt try to mount the wheel on the bonnet without reinforcing it, it would probably sag like a damp pizza . Cheers J2J

Having tried WD40 and the freeze and release stuff and a few others I use a cheapo £1 land stuff in a big tin and I am embarrassed to say it seems to work and it’s errh well a £1!!! Perhaps it’s because I tend to use more of the cheapo stuff over several days rather than being mindful of price… j

Thanks all

Thanks Western panic over J2J

I am sure I have asked this question before but having looked through my content can't find anything, so sorry if this is repetitive . A little while ago I fitted four non “E” marked led roof lights for forward facing work/ flood lights for off road usage only. They are wired into the cab independent of any of the vehicles lights and have a “tell-tale” illuminated switch to warn when they are on. My question is will these be covered by the MOT inspection. Regards J2J

Thanks all.

I have seen a lot of Disco 200tdi engines for sale and then you see a Defender 200tdi lump for sale and its sometimes twice the price Apart from the configuration of downpipe, turbo etc . Is it basically the same engine, with the same capabilities? Just wondered why the defender engine seems to carry a price premium. Perhaps it’s because the Defender unit doesn’t need any adaptation to fit into to another defender and that’s the reason in the price hike? Just wondered J

Hi, I use a Motorola XOOM 32gb +32gb card, wifi/3g running android. For OS level mapping I use both Maverick Pro , a good program but the after sale support is laughable and AlpineQuest a superb program with good support. No maps to buy as you browse the area you intend to travel before hand and the map caches for off-line usage atomaticaly to save battery power. Having said that the XOOM battery is usualy good for between six (tested by myself) and an eight (company stated) hours. The device is totaly solid state so no rotating discs in a hard drive to be affected by bumps or vibration. In the images I have fitted a semi ruggedised cover from "Snugg" to protect the framework. The best bit about the Xoom is it can be bought off the "Bay of E" for about £150 factory refurbed. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1311.R1.TR8.TRC0.A0.Xxoom&_nkw=motorola+xoom&_sacat=0&_from=R40 For me the Xoom MZ601is the one to get as you get both wifi and 3G connectivity so you can use a pay as you go sim card for use off the beaten track. On top of this you can also install any one of a number of road based GPS sytems like tomtom or one of the free programs that are also very good. See the images of the "Heath Robinson" mount I knocked up for the cab and the unit in place. If you want any other info PM me J

I use Maverick and AlpineQuest on Android both are very good just browse the maps on wifi /3g and they cache for use later offline . https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=psyberia.alpinequest.full&hl=en https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.codesector.maverick.full&hl=en J

Cheers All

I have a Ken Lowe fan fitted to my 200tdi with the very good Xfan theromo controller. I haven't noticed any great jump in performance or marked improvement in fuel consumption but the vehicle is a little bit quieter. The fan cut in for about a minute or so the other week because I forgot the rad muff was closed..... doh

I have some LED reverse lights on the back of my 90 and have been toying with the idea of upgrading to a pair of 15watt ones ever since I almost demolished a gate post turning in a field gateway. I know this has been covered before but I couldn't find the bit of info I need. Am I right in thinking that the only restriction in reverse lights where fitted is the limit of two lights and the combined wattage of the lights? I don't want to upgrade and then find out on MOT day the lights cause the 90 to fail its medical,so to speak! Thanks

Hi I used one of these. It works well and it must be simple as I fitted it http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-Max-Digital-Split-Charge-Relay-Dual-Battery-System-/110828967152?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19cdebd4f0 Or these http://www.neneoverland.co.uk/4x4_parts_equipment/4x4partsS355.htm

my 90 In its former incarnation was a "D" and that had lift up handles

Happy Christmas!

I had to cut and modify my seatbox as I couldnt get a 200tdi (like teeth of the hen)seatbox and had to use a 300tdi one. It is a pita but can be done.

Sad to hear but at least you did the right thing..more power to youe elbow sir. J2J

How about one of these? I bet they are about as powerful as a junior asprin. My Mrs gets in my 90 but wraps up like Eskimo-Nell so it looks like the 90 is inhabited by a pair of Bibendums http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-4-In-1-Rechargeable-Car-Heater-Fan-Cooler-Demister-Windscreen-Defroster-/370717740961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item56507fcfa1

That sounds good my mother in law has a coal effect one I could fit it in the passenger footwell for that traditional look

Thanks all

My 200tdi does this and its the belts it seems to do it in humid or misty weather . I think I need to tension the belts a bit more.