Boothy

I'm sure some creative grinding and cutting could save an awful lot of hours taking bodies of, come on lads its a bloody Landrover its got to have drafts, leaks and pop rivets or it's not fit to wear the badge. The market was flooded and is becoming even more so with lease companies letting them go, because they became massivley popular very quickly, and our popular goverment have now made them very expensive to run and tax also, plus the insurance companies will no doubt follow suit when loads go missing or myseriously catch fire at around a 100k miles just before a monsterous bill comes in especially for something that famous for having wiring faults and dodgy electrics, not good but no doubt it will and does happen. They are an absolutly superb piece of kit, but be prepared for paying for the likes, it's the true running cost and for god's sake don't look at MPG or buy a Yaris. It's only nuts and bolts.

No notjust the winch wiring,.that's just the endof the wiring, to do;;; rear radiator plumbing, brakes but they're an easy one, steering, finish full hydro and see if it works, not until plumbings done, manafacture and fit new adjustable (come on Carl less tea bags more grafting) panhard rod and bracket, so it misses hydrosteer, make and fit gearbox crossmember and belly plate (car gents please) find somewhere to mount waffles and ground anchor etc, perhaps one day paint it, and so on and on and on ...... and one day test the thing......

Honest answer, how often do you ever use the friggin highlift ???? I've carried one for years, but the daft bit is I dont even carry a spare, and I have centre winch to do a sideways pull of the nearest fixed object to remove a wheel if need be.

Cannot belive how fast the days are ticking down to the 1st round, I feel like James Bond must when he's diffusing the big bomb's, only I'm trying to build a bomb ???????? Just spent the best part of a week rewiring the Megasquirt and a new dash panel and a complete new loom for the motor, just got the winch power left to run in. Saley " it'll only take 3 days to re-chassis" ??????, I'll have what he's sniffin anyday oh well more wires

I think the road legal clause and the thought of actually having to drive between sites has limited some AWDC enteries Neil.

I know you said not Demon Tweaks but they do an ideal one for about £18 that fits perfect into a 9mm fuel pipe and complies perfectly, also if you've plenty of time quite a lot of Ford's have fuel line breather's built in and should be relatively cheap and easy to find. Regards

I aint biting, yer mincers.

29/30, Just not saying wether right or wrong though Not bad for a old fart

I used 3 last yeay also, but gained 1 back (always pen your name on them, top tip 2009), so would be prepared to pay £25'ish, but must also add that Saley's idea of using a football is a belter and cannot see a reason why not, especially when there's some school football fields where I work and were constantly bombarded with new sail's all day.

I use a D44, but have modified it by cutting out a 8inch piece and also welding a big spike in the shovel blade to help it dig in. Works for me. You live stupid close to me. Boothy

I'm glad it's not steel your after after living in Sheffield, it's a bit like asking where to get a fish from in Grimbsy, The best "PLACE" (ho ho) I found is to do a Google search and simply put in "Alloy plate supplier Sheffield area" and usually most stockists will appear, Couldn't resist Paul, Happy New Year.

I bought some last year for my challenge truck (that does not go on the road) at Donnington indoor show last February'ish, and a few fellow competitors who saw me walking around with them commented stating there were not the strongest things in the world, and are known for cracking and bending etc, so I don't think it's exactly new information. But saying that mine appear to be in perfect health so I cannot, nor will not call them, but may not buy any more.

Jim, What's this Thompson one you refer to ? I got through 2 ARB compressors last year and totally agree with your CR*P comment and was thinking of Viar but they seem expensive, it's only for2 ARB's. Cheers Chris

I got some new gloves because my heaters c**p. They're brill.

Bleedin hell Nige, I bet that's shut you up for a while. Anderzander, absolutely brilliant, in awe. Boothy.

Cost,? Exact formatt? MSA or otherwise Will it change format/published start times without notice? Exact sites? Single vehicle enteries, or is it teams, and can teams alter through series? MOT/Road tax required? Rules and reg's? Is it OK just to do the odd one if there's space? Is there proper parking and camping facilities at the unknown sites and can Wormhough be improved? Cost for pre booking full series (only if all above can be answered first)? You asked for questions

Jenny, May I take this oppourtunity to thank you, my darling wife couldn't work out where her new hat had gone. Untill now

Come on Barney are we having the results posted????? Special stages, night scores, Sundays scores, and total scores, You could be doing that whilst resting your aching legs pal. We always need a breakdown to moan to one another about. Cheers matey

Good luck Lucy, Paul and co, there's certainly a need for a well run entry level series that's been missing since the demise of the Cluman's. Hope all goes well for you. Chris

I used some on my V8 to go from the Y piece to over the axle, so I coud tuck it up and hopefully it would stand a bang from a branch or rock etc. It's been on 2 years now and done all the Howlin Wolf's bar one and a few more events as well, and its been absolutely brilliant, cannot fault the stuff. Chris

Apart from Glynn Yates car falling to pieces Sat lunchtime, to be replaces with Dan Thomas's completely unprepared car we were doing fine, even apart the organisational dissarray, until my V8 caught fire doing a long uphill pull, Clouds of smoke billowed out from under the bonnet only to be told by the spectators that the underbonnet had caught fire, an oil pipe to the gauge had ruptured and was spraying oil straight on to the manifold, Glynn managed to put it out with an extinguisher only to throw it onto the passenger floor where it went off again, hit me straight in the face and left me looking like frosty the snowman. On the highwire harness section over a mudhole section, Glynn dropped the bitch supended via his winch cable in the dirt from 6 foot, he tightened the cable off goes Dan and then PLOP, face down in the dirt, Glynn forgot the handbrake, priceless Never had so much fun over 2 days in a long time, eat your heart out Peter Kay. No damage apart from the pipe, exept for bruised ribs laughing at Yatesy tring to bitch.

Could we move November to please Neil as it clashes with cold, wet, and dark. July's OK leave it where it is please.

If you want successfully bend "blue band" with a Clarke bender then insist on buying British Chorus steel, it resists kinking a bit more than our imported cheap stuff, but pays for itself in wastage and strength. The boys who fit this stuff for a living (heating systems etc) who buy from Stockports "Booles Tools" will only use imported pipe for straights but when they are bending, they use the Chorus stuff (I know it's owned by Indians but they have apparently not lessenend the quality) and they insist that is the most cost effective way. I hope that may help or explains things.

I use half a litre of EP90, does fine, been told you could use a thick'ish engine oil something like 20/50 if you choose.

Les, Here's a thought, if I am using 2 monsterous big yellow tops, in the extended seat box, paralled up, to a pair of 250amp (cont) cut of switches again paralled up, with the shortest run possible to an Albright (heavy duty) solonoid, mounted as near as possible to my 8274 fitted with a Warn 6XP motor, both front and rear the winches the same, all properly crimped in Tomcats 65mm 2 braided cable, which is a lovely cable, using a hypress (proper tool), and all crimps sealed in lythium grease. All this to hopefully lower volt drop from cable or battery drop. Then what would you guesstimate the voltdrop is under an average load ? Taking into account this estimated voltdrop, is it really a bad thing when we run 24 volts into a 12 volt motor ?, or with this voltdrop (which could drop the 24 volts quite considerably) then should we really be using 24 volt systems anyway. I was thinking about the old ballasted coil ignition sytems which averaged cranking voltage between 6-9 volts before rising to nearly 14 volts upon running, if you follow my train of thought. I was always taught that with a DC motor (series wound?) that the voltage is proportional to the current, i.e. drop the volts = high current and visa versa, or am I taking bo****ks ?, so keep the volts up and the current low and bobs your aunt fanny, but do it visa versa and your crimps start to tarnish where they've been hot and cable gets higher resistance, amplyfing it next time. If I get chance this weekend at the Buxton & District winter challenge, I will put my RMS fluke meter on the motor and give it a hard long pull (the winch) just to see, how's that. Best guess please.