Fridge they are no worse than the millions of alloy split rims out there plus unlike most bead locks the tyre sit on the rim then the rim is bolted to the rest of the wheel. I might well just stick with sealant as I'm more that likely to change to 33" tyres in the not to distant future.
Mike
I have some mach 5 beadlock rims that have been sealed (I use the term loosely) with silicone. I want to make a rubber gasket for said rims. What is the collective ideas for best thickness and type of rubber to use I'm thinking 3mm nitrile.
Mike
Surely the internal rear dimensions aren't much different to a vw. Perhaps some of there off the shelf options whilst costly could be modified to fit.
Mike
Personal I've never given it a second thought. I've always just refitted them unless I've bent or snapped them . To me yours just look polished as I would expect to see so I would refit and set the clearances.
Mike
If you like filled arches 285. If you like over stuffed arches 315. I think you need 10" rims for 315 so your choice may be made for you. I run 285 75x16 on 45 and 255 85x16 on the 110.
Mike
If your not bothered about having to IVA or have a q plated then a second hand chassis is fine just make sure it's legit. I would if possible get and keep the v5 for chassis and major parts plus receipts for it all.
Mike
They are designed for 33's but the gearbox and chassis are set higher relative to the suspension mounts. In fact the gearbox doesn't hang below the chassis.
Mike
Doesn't appear to have the 3rd hinge (middle) but that's only two holes. Our 110 has three hinges so I don't know how they figure "early" vehicles.
Mike
I'm pretty sure your "painting guy" owes you sufficient favours to drop what he has on to paint it for you. We already have a plan hatched to give you spannering room. Your d3 is getting old now.....I can go on....and on too.
Mike