miketomcat

The stiffener Jeff refers to is an odd one, a friend on but doesn't post @popeonarope discovered there existence when he had similar issues one vehicle had one the other didnt. I think he ended up obtaining one from a scrap tub. Mike

Nah I've done a few head gaskets recently, shouldn't take long. Mike

Doesn't tow boats very well and the winch is rubbish. Mike

I don't do electronics, autos or less than 30 mpg which rules out most conversions. Whilst rebuilding a 200tdi clearly isn't cheap fitting a BMW lump is unlikely to be cheaper. Mike

They use a lot less diesel too.... Mike

Just for a change I think the #£@&ing head gasket has gone again. Now I'm going to have to just change it because I need the truck on the road. However this has sharpened the mind on getting the other engine sorted I'm thinking either get a recon short block or send mine somewhere to get it reconditioned. Anyone got any recommendations preferably south coast ish. No I can't afford turner's prices. Mike

110 Station wagons are 2950kg to keep them in the class 4 MOT regs. 110 Hardtop and pick up are 3050kg which is class 7, however I believe they're now classed as multi-purpose vehicle and can go through a class 4 MOT. Never had a hi-cap so don't know about them. Mike

You might have this version of the dim dip. https://images.app.goo.gl/HCAATMLHEoKdjBqD7 Defender, 90, 110 don't normally have sidelights in the headlight, so if someone has fitted mini 7" headlights for example, they do have sidelights so they're often not wired up. I've heard of MOT inspectors failing cars for having both bullet and headlight sidelights wired up. Mike

My wife doesn't need any encouragement. But definitely not. 🤮

That's one helluva way to die..... Mike

My ibex is 2000kg including winch and spare, the wheels and tyres have changed from wolf rims and 205's to mach5 and 33's but doubt there's much in it. The only other thing that's been added since is the snorkel perhaps 3kg. My tomcat was 1850kg including winch and spare wheel. Mike

Broken out this morning. Once trimmed this will form the roof capping hence doing it I one piece. Mike

Not wishing to scare you but TSD had a similar issue with his ibex build. He got the engine running then left it for a while, when he came to start it again it wouldn't. Turned out to be diesel bug the FIP was packed full to the point it had to be replaced, I think the injectors were done as well. Mike

The panels are double skin with insulation in between. The rest of the box is just glued together with aluminium corner covers. Mike

A bit more laminating today. These are the corner sections to join all the extension panels together. I haven't decided if they'll get an internal section yet to help hold it all together or just glue the panels and cap with these sections. Mike

I've had one fail in under a year, the replacement is allmakes so we'll see how that lasts. I normally buy bearmach but obviously that's no longer an option so I'm not sure what the one in there was, but I did buy a pile of random parts a while ago so it may of been from that. However I've also had a panhard bolt wear, I thought it was the bush but that's fine. The bolt though has quite a step in it. This is what lead me to find the UJ. Mike

I'm going to re-purpose the internal bulkheads to form the back, sides and roof of the extension. Most have holes in that will need repairing but still perfectly useable. The panel that formed the double skin roof for the freezer section only has glass on one side so this is going to be fitted and glued to the inside of the rear panel I made. Mike

All trimmed and ready for the insulation panel. Next are some angle sections to join all the panels together and the wheelarch mould. Mike

In all seriousness I'm more than willing to talk through/help anyone with fibreglass work. Just pm me. Mike

Just to show I'm not perfect. This is known as pre-release it's where either the gel has come away from the mould before the mat was put on or the glass has got a little warm when curing and pulled it away. If this was to be a gel finish it would need to be sanded and filled with gel, but as I'm painting it can be filled. Mike

This morning I de-nibbed all the spikeys and started to break it out. Crack all the edges off first by pushing them away from the mould. Depending on what type of mould you have and the shape will determine how to proceed from here. Mine is temporary so I can just undo the screws and pull it apart. Some moulds you break the edges then you just lever and wedge it out taking care not to damage the layup (it is possible to tear it). As you can see the plants have come out still in the unit. These get prised out remembering to go the correct direction for the shape. The plasticine can be scraped off and what's left wiped off with acetone. You can recycle the plasticine as long as it doesn't get contaminated. The radius left by the plasticine just needs a light sand. The moulding can be trimmed, cleaned up and polished, though I'll be sanding it for paint later on. Mike

Thanks for the kind comments. Honestly it isn't that hard, yes there is a knack but it's not difficult to learn. Staying clean whilst doing it is another matter. I'm known for being very clean when laminating but equally I've worked with guys who are very good at it but my god they make a mess. With regard to hot resin (this applies to polyester, vinylester and epoxy), it can get hot enough to burn you. Normally it just gets hot, however it can smoke (Do not breath the smoke) and catch fire. The solution is simple though, a pot just needs some water pouring in, a fluffy for instance can be dropped into the pot with water in. Even still it can boil the water and melt the pot it's in. Mike

Along with a fairlead and wiring sid, Stephen do you ever actually sleep? I thought I was bad until I met you. Your a whole other level of can't sit still. Mike

I forgot to add earlier once you've finished you need to clean your tools in acetone, you can squeeze out the fluffy and rinse it out but I recommend taking it off the handle and leaving it along with the other tools in the acetone (acetone evaporates so a lid will be needed). It's often easier to admit defeat and just bin the fluffy each time just remember it can get hot as it cures. Obviously this time your not going to be mixing all the resin at once so do it in small batches you can just add fresh resins to the pot and catalysise, but it's better to use a fresh pot until you get the hang of it. Scrape the worst of the old resin into the previous pot before moving it to the new pot (no need to clean it out but remember to do the same with the consolidator) it's worth reducing the catalyst as the previous mix will kick off the next. The same goes on the job especially on overlaps. When overlapping onto the previous part you need to roll and consolidate the whole of the overlap before the rest of the panel because the previous layers will be curing this gives off heat which accelerates the bit you currently doing. Mike

Once cured and cooled (probably best left over night) you can de-nib the spikey bits external corners are the worst, you may need to hoover the dust out. After the first layer is on or all other for that matter you have 28 days to complete your lay up, assuming it doesn't get contaminated (if you put your next layer on at 28 days the clock starts again). Now your ready for the next layers as I'm only doing 3 layers and I know what I'm doing I did all three layers at once. If your a novice I'd do one let it cure then two more at the same time. Maximum of three layers at a time. As before wet out, add a layer of mat, wet that out. Fluffy down any lumps as you go then add the second layer, wet out and fluffy down. If the mat is bridging and area carefully wet it out and let it soak for a minute then you should be able to stretch it into place, just remember when doing this you are thining the lay up so it may be better to cut or tear it and add a piece. Again consolidate the area. And fluffy to finish. Mike