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miketomcat

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Everything posted by miketomcat

  1. On the bright side I'm in no rush so it'll be in your way more than mine. Mike
  2. A fair few hot rods get trailered to shows and some have removable arches, I doubt many actually put them on though. The one above is in the UK but has an illegal Americanised plate, it probably has a whole host of illegality. Mike
  3. You may be able to solve the problem with different discs. In this post are the parts I used. I did not need the spacers mine just bolted up like standard. Mike
  4. I can absolutely guarantee the the picture of the air box on your wing is a late model 200tdi discovery. The lid to the box is part of the filter. ESR1050 is the box and ESR 1049 is the filter I think early 200tdi discovery had a different one very similar to defender style where the filter is inside the canister with a separate lid. I can't find a part no even in the lr manual but it does list a filter NTC 1435, which is the same style as defender IE separate lid. Mike
  5. No, but as Ross says the axles are further back however this one has been extended at the front which makes it look even worse. The extension, ramps and side bars will be coming off. It is a little wider than I wanted but that will help with stability. Mike
  6. I've never run lockers (with the brief exception of Ladoga and that was rover diff) so can't really comment. However my opinion and take on things is any long distance travel requires the strongest standard fitment item you can use. Anything aftermarket can be a problem when it breaks especially if it can't be replaced with a stock item. Both my trucks are daily drivers the 110 has a stock untouched Salisbury that is 40 years old and around 170k. The ibex I could of fitted any axle I wanted. A rover axle would mean lots of upgrade options. I figured a Salisbury was bomb proof as standard, yes fitting a locker later has distinctly limited options but so far I haven't felt the need (or been able to afford it ). Mike
  7. Mo is happy to give it to you in April. I can grab it next time your in Southampton. Thanks you. Thanks all it looks like we have a plan. Mike
  8. Right I'm going to chime in here. The filter on the wing (first picture) is a 200tdi discovery unit with an after market filter in it (genuine the top is black to match the housing). I think the very early 200 disco had a different housing like the second picture but can't remember exactly. The second picture looks the same as the housing I have on my ibex which I believe is a 200 defender unit though it's mounted in, close to the 300 position (300 has the feed to the turbo going around the back of the engine). Mike
  9. Take two. Indespension 3.5t plant trailer. Land rover stud pattern and pin hitch. Mike
  10. TSD's works for me too. Though I probably should ask him first . April is fine with me if mo doesn't mind. Mike
  11. Just checking you know fridge doesn't work in Andover anymore. Looks like I'm going to the M4 ish east of Oxford on Saturday if that helps. Mike
  12. Mo Murphy has a cylinder head that I would like to find its way to Southampton or perhaps @fridgefreezer in Basingstoke (I'm sure he won't mind ). I'm in no rush but mo would like it gone sooner rather than later. Mike
  13. Nice job I really like that. If I could afford another vehicle I'd like to do similar but with two kids it'll be a caravan for now. Maybe in the future though...... Mike
  14. I thought the diamond discs were for stone, brick and tiles. I'm happy to be proved wrong as I use diamond multi tool blades for fibreglass and have used diamond cut off saws which is essentially an angle grinder with a diamond blade. My current discs are 125mm parweld they seem to last well but I haven't been doing much metal fab recently. Mike
  15. I would suspect it just needs stripping, cleaning and re greasing. Mike
  16. Only if I don't have to raise them up to get the clearance I need. Mike
  17. And the box is empty. All the bulkheads are out. A couple of little surprises, the front section is 3" foam (freezer section) instead of 2" like the rest and some cable runs weren't where I thought they were. Mike
  18. For all numbers I'd just use a grinder or plasma cutter. If your lucky enough to have a mill then that's even better. For larger numbers take it to a machine shop they can CNC mill, plasma, laser or water jet cut them. It may be worth talking to a machine shop anyway sometimes they like a small fill in job especially if your not in a rush. Mike
  19. This is pretty much how I learnt electrics. Positive=flow Negative=return Both must be connected for anything to work. The body and engine etc is negative so you don't necessarily need two wires (guage sender's etc). Mike
  20. We have been looking at both horse and livestock trailers, however they tend to be a bit short and some are narrow. They also hold there value even a ropey one is £1k or really old. Our box will be about 14ft long but the flat base is only 12ft. As I discovered with our current trailer if you put the wheels central on the flat base part it ends up looking very tail heavy. I'm thinking if I go for a 14/15ft caravan chassis they are normally around 1500-1800kg gross and the chassis often doesn't go all the way to the back or they are reconfigurable by moving bolts Mike
  21. Yeah I bought the trailer in haste but hind sight is saying it's not quite right. Rather than plump for near enough I'd prefer to change it for one that's a better fit. Annoyingly there's a chassis on faceache that looks perfect but it's completely bare so that's about a grand in bits which isn't viable and it's up north too. Mike
  22. That triggers IVA. Which I may end up doing anyway. It's also not galv. Mike
  23. After much deliberation I'm going to move the trailer on and look for another. We had to change the interior to make this one work and it ended up looking tail heavy. Much as I want to get on with the build I also want it right and this was niggling me. For various reasons mainly cost I may revisit the caravan chassis. Mike
  24. I also run halogen headlamps and led sidelamps, no spots without a ballast resistor. I do run ballast resistor's on my indicator's. I'd disconnect each lamp (or remove the bulb) in turn, if one fixes it look there. The other thing to check is the stalk I've had several fail in various ways (currently the left indicator won't stay on). Mike
  25. I had to tighten two of mine down a fair bit more to get them to seal. No idea of torque as I just kept nipping till compression/diesel stopped getting out. Mike
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