miketomcat

From memory yours is a 200tdi, if so I've never needed to remove the radiator bung as the bleed pipe is quite high so it's always bled up fine. Mike

In my opinion the Steve parker exhaust down pipe is worth every penny. We have one on our 110 and had one on the 90 before that. It's much nicer than the copies, it just fits and does what it's supposed to. Mike

You need the Steve parker down pipe unless you change the turbo to 300tdi but I think you then have an engine mount clash instead. The td5 exhaust is either the same size as the 200tdi exhaust or slightly bigger. The td5 has a better route on a 90 I believe. I went td5 because I needed a rolled end on my tail pipe for IVA and I wanted it to exit out the back. Mike

I was going to suggest the td5 exhaust as I have, however mine is the 110 length and wasn't sure about the 90 version. Mike

Most remote sets plug into the solenoid, they don't replace them. Mike

You can keep the exhaust but later ones are better, however the 200tdi 90 exhaust is horrible as it has a strange back box arrangement. Mike

Don't forget you need to move some bell housing studs and fit new bolts through the flywheel housing at the bottom you need to either countersink or counterbore the holes depending on the bolts you use. You'll also need a Steve parker down pipe for the turbo. It is possible to use the viscose fan on some but often it fouls the steering box and pipework. Top pic is a 90 was a td bottom is a 110 was a n/a not that it makes a difference. Mike

This weekend I've been mostly sanding. Sanding the fibreglass repairs, filling the repairs and sanding some more. Then not content with that the boss told me I needed to remove the step in the wall. So out with the multi tool, I managed to peel the inner fibreglass skin off and remove around 20mm of insulation which of coarse needed sanding. I then glued the skin back in place. Finally while I had the multi tool out I've cut the rivets holding the roller shutter door tracks on. Mike

Probably due to the massive import duty most EU customers have to pay on delivery when buying from the UK since Brexit. Some countries it's up round the 30% mark. Mike

Even the professional's struggle with that I can assure you. I'm fairly sure the diaphragm fits any 90/110 bulkhead (though not sure about puma). Mike

They are good winches however I've never been able to justify the extra they command. Their main benefit is speed and potential for bigger drum. So if your just dragging yourself and others out on greenlanes and playdays just about any winch will do, I've had an EP9 and now an X9 both very good winches. Whereas if your doing competition an 8274 is a good start but you'll likely disappear down the upgrade hole. Mike

45's chassis was spayed with por15. 5 years and one Ladoga later, the areas that were rusty (surface rust) the paint was good still stuck and still black. However anywhere that was shiny metal or previously painted (original lr paint) the por15 had come off, the metal was rusty along with some of the previously painted. The ibex chassis is galv but I painted it with 2k etch and 2k top coat. All the suspension, axles etc I just painted with 2k top coat. 8 years on (5 on the road) the chassis is mostly good the paint has come off where it's been rubbed on the ground etc. The axles are better than I expected there's still paint there but they could do with a repaint now. The springs are looking rougher but that's to be expected. The 110 was done with jotamastic 87 (now 90) and arcrite defender chassis black. 3 years on some rust spots are just starting to show through where there was surface rust prior to painting, but on the whole it's holding up well. The Kit car built years ago came powder coated and I painted the suspension with hamerite. The powder coat came off in sheets a year later and the hamerite didn't last that long. I re-painted with single pack enamel which seemed better but I soldthe car a year later. Mike

When I insulated the ibex I used this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283631065128?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IkpvIq3XTAW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=rj9sNdGlTqa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE I wrapped it around the frame before I covered it for the same reasons you mention. Mike

I've got so long runners but I doubt they're long or strong enough but I figured bearings and aluminium box section as I seam to have a lot of that at the moment. Mike

The 109 you can just climb through the door gaps with the doors "shut". Mike

Thank you for the photos, due to the thickness of our walls that style of window won't work very well so eds more than welcome. Mike

I've already been told I've got to remove 25mm of insulation off of one area because she doesn't want a step in the wall. It's where the insulation was increased for the freezer section, the other side is ok as it's where the door was so the infill is only 56mm anyway. The pull out kitchen is going to be a 2m tray that I've got to sort runners for.......... Mike

Don't you think I've got enough to do, as it is I made the mistake of looking at what she'd be drawing. Ignorance is definitely bliss. Mike

Also I managed to get the door liner refitted, this is the part the door seals on. Unfortunately it does reduce the width of the door a bit but it's still big enough. As the temperature dropped this afternoon I was able to glass up the original door position. I also sorted all the other holes in the outside of the box. Meanwhile the wife's been on CAD drawing up the kitchen area and various other bits for me to make, I'm not sure I dare look. Mike

Sunday's plan went out the window as I've picked up a cold and felt rough. Today though I felt much better so onwards. After consulting the boss as to where the shower and lobby will be this allowed me to position the roof hatches. My eldest loved cleaning the roof, apparently the view is good. Once clean I could mark out the positions. Small hole drilled I was able to jigsaw the hole out. X2 the roof is only 27mm thick but even sat in direct sunlight all weekend it's still cool inside. Both hatches screwed down on Saba. With just two hatches it's surprisingly light inside now. Mike

The door is 500mm wide which is similar to standard caravan so I'm not worried. Most of the panels that need to go in are only 1m wide and only 3 are 2m long. Mike

I can cover monumental gaps with fibreglass. I'm working on the theory it has to go through the door. That way it can come out through the door to. Mike

The cut out is to be used to fill the hole. I'd love to say it just fell in there perfect....it didn't. A light trim and in it goes. Due to the proximity of the wheelarch we needed the door to open the other way. Easy fix just turn the frame and door upsidedown and glue it in. Tomorrow in need to glass the joint on the in fill. Mike

Door out today, it was a case of cutting then breaking the seal around the frame. As with most of the box it's only glued in so it was relatively straight forward. Out Once it was out I could work out the new position. This is where it went side ways the internal layout means there's a specific measurement of where the door has to go. Two things have messed with this first I had to make the wheelarch fatter because it was to deep and narrow to get in there to lay it up. Second we've been caught out with some of the wall thicknesses, the roof for instance is only 25mm. Likewise the front is 77mm not the 56mm we thought. So the layout has had to change again because to meet the measurement it shoved the door up by 100mm in order to clear the wheelarch. Layout changed (back to one of the original designs) meant the door can go forward 70mm allowing it to return to the same height it was at originally. His and hers doors anyone? Mike

Are you sure they're boost alloys? I thought boost were the only ones that fit all versions of of the hub and flange without spacers. Mike