markyboy

Try this one. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601 Hope I've got it right now. Mark.

This might help. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7546 Mark Ah, sorry! Just realised you've got a TD5 so you won't have Railko bushes. I'll have another look,

I did it on a 1985 2.5 petrol and it was pretty straightforward. There are a few things to be mindful of as Les has pointed out. The fuel return was already there so that wasn't a problem. Wiring was a doddle, as already suggested I used the coil feed for the fuel pump solenoid and everything else was already there. However, for the glow plug wiring I used a heavy duty (30amp?) push button which was wired up to a heavy duty solenoid (120amp?). The downside to this is it is not timed so it's a case of keeping the button depressed for a few seconds before cranking the engine. I found this was simpler than swapping the ignition barrel and it works a treat. In fact the engine starts without glow plugs even in the middle of winter. As Les also pointed out, you will need to swap the flywheel housing or drill and tap the exisiting one as there are a number of studs missing to mate up to the gearbox. Engine mountings were taken from the petrol and re-used and I replaced the exhaust system for a diesel one as the petrol one is a smaller internal diameter. I made up a downpipe a la Les's thread as it was a 200Tdi from a Discovery. Piece of proverbial. HTH, Mark.

You won't necessarily find a leak if it's the master cylinder, although there may be one behind the dust seal, if there is it will run down the inside or outside of the bulkhead. Certainly sounds like fluid creeping past the master cylinder seals to me. I'd replace it with a genuine one, don't use Br*tpart!!! Mark

I had the reverse problem, I couldn't get the old seat out. I had to get the drop arm off. It required a bit of heat and a puller and hammer of the large type and variety with a drift, they can be a bit of a PITA. Liberal application of heat, puller on with some load on it and then hammer and drift from under the wing was how I got mine off. Have you got any way of applying heat to the drop arm? Once off it's a fairly simple task with an engineers vice and socket. Have you cleaned the drop arm out with a bit of wet and dry or emery cloth? A coat of grease wouldn't go amiss either. Are you sure the new seat is in straight? If it isn't it'll be a bit of a beggar to fit.

A bent conrod will almost certainly cause it. It will have the effect of lowering the compression ratio and you will not get complete combustion, especially when the engine is cold. Unburnt fuel on a diesel = white smoke. Mark.

Hi Ronnie, Sticking pistons would not cause the pedal to go to the floor, if anything the pedal would have less travel than normal. I agree with everyone else, the most likely cause is the master cylinder. If it's only 3 months old and you have the receipt, I'd be asking for my money back. Mark.

The bottom hose stays cold until the thermostat opens, it will take an absolute age to get hot in this weather. It might be worth checking that the thermostat is not stuck open, this would cause the cold heater symptoms you have. In my experience they rarely need bleeding but to do it you need to make sure the header tank is topped right up and take one the heater hoses off. You should get water out of the heater hose/heater. It's probably worth checking both heater hoses actually. It may also be necessary to rev the engine with the heater hose off. HTH, Mark.

It's "a Land Rover Thing" I second, everything said above. Brilliant Forum, Brilliant People. Mark

In a word..... yes! The pump bearings are lubricated by the PAS fluid, no fluid = no lubrication = no bearings. It should be possible to get a smaller belt if you take the pump off. HTH Mark.

It's a straightforward nut and bolt job. Later series doors used "Defender" type hinges anyway, but I think even earlier series doors will fit as the bolt holes are in the same place, IIRC. HTH Mark

There is a tool for the cup part. The retaining pin is normally just held with your free hand. It can be done without the special tool, I usually use normal pliers but this can be a bit fiddly and the cup can sometimes fly off in all directions. I suppose being underneath it on your back makes life more difficult but it should be possible. Mark

Make sure the standard discs are not Br!tpart. AP Lockheed are excellent quality and I would pay £6 extra for them over Br!tpart any day of the week. Overhauling calipers is a very straight forward job, the only difficult bit is replacing the dust seals, the bits you can see which you say are perished. It's very difficult to do without damaging them. There is a special tool I think but the number of times you'd need it would not warrant buying one. I'd imagine it would be easy to turn something up on a lathe or get one made by an engineering firm. Some people, I believe just use a suitably sized socket, I tried that without success. In the end it was just a case of taking my time and trial and error. It's probably worth buying extra seals because you're bound to damage some of them. And yes, the Tech Archive is your friend, HTH Mark

As Reb78 says, have a look at Les's excellent thread in the tech archive, it tells you all you need to know. The wiring loom in your truck can be easily adapted to work with the 200Tdi disco engine. Other than that you will need to either make or buy an exhaust downpipe. Les's thread shows you how to make your own or you can buy one from Steve Parker off the bay of E. It's a very simple transplant which has great results.

For a straight fit you'd need to swap the turbo + inlet and exhaust manifolds, as well as the flywheel housing. The Disco has a low mounted turbo whereas the genuine Defender one is mounted high up. With regards to the flywheel housing, they are the same casting but there is a difference in bolt/stud pattern, it is possible to modify one to fit the other, but if you've got the original you may as well swap it and replace the rear crank seal at the same time. HTH. Mark

A 265/70R16 tyre has rim width limits of 7.0" to 9.0" with an optimum rim width of 8.0" for that tyre. 6.5" is the optimum rim size for a 235/85R16 with rim width limits of 6.0" to 7.0". Regards, Mark

Yes, from inside the rim flange on both sides. Alternatively the wheel size may actually be stamped on the rim somewhere, look at both inside and outside around the rim and also on the face/spokes of the rim. HTH. Mark.

If the wheel is less than 8.0" I wouldn't recommend fitting the above tyre onto it. Mark.

Recommended rim width for the above tyre is 9.0". However, it will go on a 8.0" - 9.5" wide rim. Is the "Boost Alloy" 8.0"? if so the above tyre is the widest that will go on it. So your girlfriend is right, strictly speaking. HTH, Mark.

How warm is your engine getting? Might be worth changing your 'stat, or at least checking it's working correctly. Other than that, do as Ralph suggests and make sure your heater flaps are correctly setup. Mark.

Wheel(s) spinning?

Certainly sounds like a fuel issue. Is there any smoke present when the engine loses power? How long before the power comes back, if at all? Sounds like it could be the injection pump. When it loses power try cracking an injector pipe off to check for the presence of fuel at the injector. HTH Mark.

Generally speaking this is the wrong thing to do in snow/icy conditions. "Airing up" would have been more appropriate. Increasing air pressure reduces contact patch area effectively concentrating the vertical load of the tyre into a smaller area, thereby increasing the chances of finding grip. However, on ice, nothing bar studded tyres works.

Just to add to what Ralph has said, not many people would recommend using Britpart for anything. Given that clutch replacement is a reasonably big, time consuming job, I think that it would be best not to use one of theirs. Regarding special tools, about the only thing you'll need is a clutch alignment tool, as referred to in Les's post. However, a socket and extension with some insulation tape wrapped around the extension at the relevant point can be used just as succesfully. You could even align the clutch by eye as long as you can your head in line with the flywheel. It's a fairly straightforward job but there are some heavy lumps of metal to manoeuvre so you'll need an extra pair of hands and preferably a lifting crane and trolley jack. HTH. Mark.

Sounds to me like it could be breathing heavily and running on its own oil. Take the breather pipe off to check for oil, if there's a lot of oil present it's time for a bit more investigation. Mark.