markyboy

Could be the photo or the lighting, but that paint doesn't appear original to me. Apologies if I'm wrong, it just seems a bit off somehow?

Yep, fog lamp. it goes to the centre of the dash as that is where the switch and warning lamp would normally reside. Regards, Mark.

Anderzander, it's the correct plate and 'O' ring. As you say, expensive for what it is, but hopefully it will seal correctly.

Just to confirm, the plug which Ralph suggested - RTC6851 with copper washer 213961 - is the correct one to block off the oil cooler ports on a 200TDi oil filter housing. Thanks Ralph. Regards, Mark.

I'll be sure to let you know.

Ralph, I've ordered the parts you have identified.

Brilliant, thank you Ralph.

Ralph, thank you for the reply. If you have a look at the attached photos, it appears that the port does have a concave seat in the bottom. If you do have something suitable, I would be more than willing to buy it from you if you would be willing to post it to me. regards, Mark.

Hello all. I am in the process of replacing the paper element type oil filter housing on my 2.25 petrol with a cartridge type oilf filter housing from a 200 TDi. I need to blank off the oil cooler ports, one of which there is a blanking plate and 'O' ring for. I have the balnking plate and 'O' ring and have blanked the relevant port off. I am looking for a blanking plug for the other port. I was under the impression it was M20x1.5. However, I have obtained an M20x1.5 blanking plug but it doesn't seem correct, it goes in about 4 or 5 threads and then tightens up. It seems to me that the thread is incorrect, the diameter seems 'about' right though. Does anyone know the correct thread size? Here's a picture by way of explanation. The port in question is highlighted by the red arrow. Thanks in advance, Mark.

I fitted GB Parabolics to my Series 3, I asked them for their recommendation with regards to dampers. Their advice was that standard dampers were good enough if you use the vehicle mainly on road and would suffice for leisurely off roading, say green laning. My car is currently not in use, but the little bit of driving I've done so far suggests the ride is going to be quite 'bouncy'. I honestly can't say whether it is any worse than it would be with standard springs, the last time I had a series in regular use was about 19 years ago. I think I may end up investing in some better dampers but I need to use the vehicle properly before I can make that decision. Regards, Mark

The date comes after the DOT code, which is actually a requirement for the North American market. It appears on the sidewall of one side of the tyre, jsut above the wheel rim line. Looks like this. As ou can see, the tyre was manufactured in the 12th week of 2020.

Neil, Do you have a link to the loom you bought, please? Thanks, Mark.

Ah okay, that makes perfect sense. Thanks Steve. I had a 2a, many, many moons ago. it was a later model though, I seem to recall it had separate reservoirs for brakes and clutch?

I'm not sure the pipe layout is correct, although I'm not 100% sure. Is the brake master cylinder fed from the side of the resevoir and the clutch from the bottom? If so, that is counter intuitive. In case of a leak on either circuit, the brake master cylinder would lose its supply before the clutch, it should be the other way round from a safety perspective. As said, I could easily be wrong. However, even if I'm right and they are the wrong way round, I'm sure it has nothing to do with the problems you are seeing with regards to the clutch.

Possibly due to low idle speed?

Add Yodel to the list of ineptitude. I recently purchased an item off evilbay. I received a notification of the delivery date from Yodel with an option to track the delivery. I later received a notification saying that the parcel had been posted in our postbox, I have my deliveries sent to my works address as there is rarely anyone at home to sign for anything. I was suspicious about the claim that the item was posted as it was too large to fit throught the letterbox opening! Anyway, I checked the postbox and it was empty, so I contacted Yodel customer services. They acknowledged that the item had been returned to their depot and would be redelivered the following day. Despite several phone calls and interactions with Yodel through a "Livechat", I never received the item and their customer service was shockingly bad, it almost felt like i was being a nuisance for imposing on them! In the end, the seller sent me a replacement item, which duly arrived, although I'm not sure which courier company delivered it as I was out of the office when it arrived. Easily the worst customer service experience I've ever had with any company, i would never recommend Yodel to anyone. Mark.

Thanks both, I have taken the exhaust off now. One of the studs snapped, it was badly corroded. Of the other two, one came out with the nut, the nut came off the other stud. Anyway, the studs are 5/16 unf, seems eBay was incorrect.

Hi Ralph, Thanks for the reply. That seems to be the same manual as I have been looking at, it certainly has the same part number for the studs, anyway. I think I'll have to try to remove the studs and check the thread before I will be able to order the new ones. Regards, Mark

Hi, happy new year, everyone. Does anyone know if the later series 3 2.25 petrol engines continued to use the 5/16" UNF studs to connect the manifold to the downpipe? I have found the part number 568664. However, an ebay search seems to suggest that this does not fit my 1984 series 3. I have not been able to find any other part number so would be grateful for any help. Regards, Mark

On a 1982, i think the retaining bolts will be metric. They are on my 1984 model anyway. If that's the case, the bolt heads are 17mm AF. +1 for removing the heat shield, once that is a off I used a combination of sockets + extensions and a spanner. It isn't too bad tbh.

Looks superb, keep up the excellent work.

Thanks for that, much appreciated. I will make my own but was looking for ideas on the mountings. The front will go to the bulkhead bracket.

Where/what do your rock sliders bolt up to at the rear?

Hi, a quick question, if you don't mind. Have you fitted standard dampers with the parabolics? I'm going to fit parabolics to my S3 SWB and I'm unsure whether I need to use longer dampers. Regards, Mark.

No worries mate.