markyboy

Thanks for that Diablo. I'll pop the cap off tonight and try disconnecting the switch to see if that cures it. Regards, Mark.

Hello All, It's a long time since I've posted as my Defender has had to take a back seat due to work and family commitments. Anyway I've decided it's high time I got my priorities in order so I've decided to get the old girl back on the road. The truck is a 1991 200 Tdi Defender 90. I'm preparing the trucjk for the MOT and the problem I have is the brake warning light on the dashboard is permanently illuminated. I've done a search but can't find any answers as to what the problem might be. Can anyone tell me what the light is for? I thought it was for low fluid level but the level is fine, unless the switch is faulty? I don't believe it's a handbrake warning light as I've searched for a switch and haven't found one. The other thing I'm wondering is whether it is something to do with the brake proportioning valve, but again I haven't found a switch on the valve. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mark.

And your point is.....?

They are effectively part of the head so are already fitted. Mark.

No they're not. But you can bolt the engine mounting brackets from the petrol engine onto the TDi block and then pick up on the standard chassis mounts, that's what we did. You don't have to change the flywheel housing either but it means there are some bell housing bolts which you won't be able to fit if you do that. For what little is involved you can just swap the housing from the petrol engine. Have a look at Les Henson's "How To" thread, it's really informative and a must see for anyone thinking of doing this conversion. This is one of the best conversions you can do IMHO, very easy to do. The most technically challenging part is fabricating an exhaust downpipe but even that isn't difficult if you can weld. HTH Mark

Going back a few posts to your issue with oil pressure. Firstly, piston rings have no bearing on the oil pressure. The oil rings "merely" prevent the oil in the cylinders from finding its way into the combustion chamber. Oil pressure problems relate to worn/faulty oil pump or pressure relief valve. Alternatively, if your crank bearings are badly worn this can also cause low oil pressure. 18psi oil pressure on tickover with a hot engine doesn't seem unduly low. HTH Mark.

Another vote of congratulations to all involved from me. Gives you a nice warm feeling to know there are people around who are prepared to give their time to help a fellow Land Rover owner out in his hour of need. You all deserve a huge pat on the back, well done. Mark.

Pretty much, except it's operated by a linkage rather than a cable. Mark

Sounds like the self-cancelling for the indicators to me. Mark.

Hmmm! The increase in pressure relates directly to the increase in tyre temperature during use. I think it's approx 0.06bar/10 deg c. Which equates to a bit less than 1 psi for 10 deg temperature change. So, if you drive hard/fast the pressures will rise more than if you drive more conservatively/slower. As well as that, tyre temperatures will not rise as much in winter due to the cooling effect of the atmosphere and road surface. So the above theory isn't 100% accurate. As has already been mentioned, colder ambient winter temperatures will reduce the "cold" tyre pressures so you will need to add more air in winter to bring your tyres back up to their standard cold pressures. HTH Mark.

How the heck did you manage that?

James, I've also known them to fail unsafely, ie. they don't lock up at all, even when hot! Mark.

Yes, but nothing will work then, fan or no fan.

Didn't think this affected diesel in the same way as petrol?

No, there are two UJ's easily visible within the engin bay. Mark.

Will, Have you checked the back of the rad for the presence of cooling fins? These are very similar symptoms to what I had, there were virtually no fins in the back of the rad as they had corroded away. Like this: HTH, Mark.

I'd be concerned about the lack of contact between the belt and pulley with that set up. You may find under heavy load, eg winter with the a lot of electrical draw from lights, heater etc, you could have belt slip. Add a damp climate into the mix and it can only be worse! I hope I'm completely wrong and you don't get any issues with it. Regards, Mark.

Nige, Thanks for the reply, I was hoping for a reply from you as I know you're a bit of an authority on the Rover V8. Sounds to me like he should give it a wide berth from what you've said. Many thanks, Mark.

Hi all, I'm a Defender man myself but my brother in-law is looking at buying an "N" plate Range Rover. It's a 4.0l which has been "gassed". I know very little about these motors as I'm a dyed in the wool oil burner. Can any of you V8 petrol gurus tell me if this engine suffers from any of the cracked liner/porous block problems? Or anything else for that matter. Also, it's done 140k so is he possibly buying himself a load of problems? All help/advice greatly appreciated. Mark.

I've successfully repaired them with epoxy or plastic metal in the past. You have to make sure they're very clean before anything will adhere properly. I'd recommend a brake cleaner or some such. Very fine wet/dry to remove any flaking chrome then flat them off after applying the epoxy/plastic metal. It is only a "temporary" fix but if you make a good job they should last well. A lot will depend on the environment the car is used in too. Lots of off road with mud and dirt and they'll not last as long as being used in a purely on-road environment. HTH Mark.

You say you've replaced the feed pipe to the pump. Have you checked the neck of the fuel pickup pipe where it exits the tank? These can corrode and become perforated allowing air to be pulled in. As Cwazywabbit says, a piece of clear pipe in the line to the IP will tell you if there's air in the system. HTH. Mark

Hi John, I had exactly the same problem on my 200Tdi. On mine the cowling had definitely deformed, it was due to the underbonnet noise/heat insulation drooping and resting on the cowl. I fixed it by taking the viscous fan off and fitting an electric fan, that solution probably doesn't help you though. Maybe a gentle warming with a hot air gun and then manipulating it back into shape before cooling it with cold water? Dunno if that would work but it's worth a try. HTH, Mark.

I think I'm right in saying you shouldn't have to change the throttle arm position on the splines to get the idle speed right. Idle speed is adjusted by a stop screw. I also think it may not be getting full throttle, easy enough to check by putting your foot flat to the floor and getting someone to check the arm is moving full travel, they could even try to move the arm further to see if there is any travel left. Could also be the turbo though, what is maximum boost for the 200Tdi? Hope you get it sorted. Mark.

It happens, unfortunately. Glad you've found the problem anyway. Mark.

I think someone posted a mod to replace the hinge pins with stainless bolts. Might be worth a search. Mark.