markyboy

Despite the difference in size of the unions, the brake pipes are the same size. It is also true that the Master cylinder has a single bore size. On a SWB Land Rover Series 3 with dual circuit brakes, both pipes go into the PDWA (Pressure Differential Warning Actuator) valve, and from there they go to front and rear axles. If you have a look at the page below, it suggests that the rearmost brake line (nearest the servo) does indeed supply the front brakes after passing through the PDWA, whilst the foremost line supplies the rear. This would make sense based on my knowledge of the master cylinder (I've just refurbed mine), as the rearmost portion of the master cylinder operates momentarily earlier than the foremost part. http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/series3/5_suspension_steering_brakes.pdf HTH, Mark.

If you're still searching, I know someone who was selling one complete with the T/box. It is/was in Stoke on Trent though. I could make an enquiry to see if it is still for sale if you wanted me to? I have no idea of the condition, and I doubt whether the seller will either. She "inherited" it from her father, who has been taken into care due to health issues. let me know if you would like me to make an enquiry for you. Regards, Mark.

Just a caveat, my solenoid would click, but the plunger could not have been operating normally as it still wouldn't start. I'm not saying yours isn't working, a click would usually suggest it is, but mine was clicking but still not working. Go figure?

I've also had similar on my 200Tdi. Mine sat on my drive for a couple of years and I would start it and run it every couple of months or so. I used to crack the injector pipes off to bleed it but it seemed very random as to whether it would start or not. In the end I replaced the stop solenoid on the pump, it was working intermittently. No problems after that.

Try a google search using "LR4x4.com" as part of the search criteria, often works better than the sites own search function. This one was started in 2009, is that it? regards, Mark

I don't know if anyone has already mentioned it, I haven't read every reply in detail? If it was running on its own oil, how do you shut it off? Normally, under those conditions, they keep on running until you either block the air inlet, or they self destruct.

Those symptoms sound like a faulty servo or vacuum pump. To test the brake servo, pump the pedal a few times with the engine off to get rid of any residual vacuum. Apply the brakes with the brake pedal then start the engine. If the servo is working, the pedal should sink further down toward the floor when the engine starts. If the pedal does not sink any further, either the servo is faulty or the vacuum pump is kaput. The vacuum pump could be tested by removing the hose from the servo and placing a thumb/finger over the end of the hose to check for vacuum.

Hopefully this will help. https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/engine-torque-settings-12022-c.asp Regards, Mark

That's not the press going wrong, it's Darwin's theory at work.

That's not what the Chief Fire Officer, who was interviewed on Radio 5 Live, said yesterday.

That would be "Les Couilles de Chein F Locker"

Les Henson wrote a very good guide for the 200Tdi. Most of it will apply to the 300Tdi and will serve as an excellent starting point. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2394&view=findpost&p=24520&hl=%2Bles+%2Bhenson

I'd have thought that would be too low, thermostat opening is at 82 deg IIRC. I would think the fan would be almost permanently on?

1. You could re-cut it to make the tread narrower. 2. Not if they're commercial tyres of 16" diameter or greater which were designed to be re-grooved it isn't. However, you can only re-cut the existing grooves so you would not be able to sculpt your own pattern as I've suggested above.

I work in the tyre industry so I have a little knowledge of the subject, although I'm not an expert tyre designer by any stretch of the imagination. I think there are many problems involved with this, first will be the cost of a mould for what will probably be a tyre that will sell in small quantities due to the niche market it's aimed at. I think it would have to be a re-mould because the major tyre companies will not want to invest a lot of money for something which will sell in small quantities, so it will take a long time for them to recover their investment. Even a re-mould would need a tyre casing of very similar dimensions to what you want the finished tyre to have. So, if your 190/125-16 tyre doesn't already exist you can't produce a re-mould of those dimensions. Then there are all the new regulations governing tyre labeling which have recently come into force. It is getting more and more difficult to design tyres which meet the relevant legislation with regards to rolling resistance, wet grip and noise. Gues what the worst tyres are for meeting the legislation? Yup, off road tyres. Incidentally, by my calculations (which could be wrong as maths was never my strong suit ), your 190/125-16 would measure approx. 34.7" in diameter, not much taller than the 34" you talk about. Seems like a non-starter to me (or at least a very long shot).

I just used the coil feed when I did this conversion.

I did wonder whether the picture made it look closer than it actually is.

Is that flexi hose not too close to the exhaust? I'd be worried about that melting/burning.

If only I had hair for it to get into!!!

Generally, (apart from in racing circles) toe figures are quoted as "total toe". So 3mm would equate to 1.5mm per wheel. Contrary to what elbekko says (no offence intended), 3mm is within the realms of "normal" for most vehicles.

Hi Guys, Thanks to all who contributed, I sorted it last night. Daren't tell you what the problem was. Low fluid level The thing is I had checked it and believed there was plenty in, the reservoir was 2/3rds full, above the seam on the plastic body. However, this obviously wasn't enough. I checked the switch operation with my meter and it worked perfectly. So I topped it up and hey presto, no warning light. I'm going to skulk away, in an embarrassed fashion, to a dark corner now. Thanks for your help. Mark.

Many thanks for all the help guys. From what has been said it is looking like it is the low fluid level switch, it certainly has one of these as i looked the reservoir last night to check the level. I'll take the level switch out tonight to check the operation, I can put my multimeter across the terminals to see if it is open circuit. Once again many thanks. Oh and at Reb's last comment.

Hi Reb, Is the PDWA the valve that I am referring to as a brake proportioning valve? I've seen a valve on the chassis leg on the offside rear of the engine compartment, but it has no wires/switch. Thanks for the help. Mark.

Thanks Mo, The car has stood for the best part of 3 years so this is a likely scenario, I'll check it tonight.