Cynic-al

The way the school mums come around the corner in winter in their discoveries a wall accident is quite possible! I thought the extended building line was intended to be to the rear of the property? Worth looking into though! I can certainly run a failing home business. Lol Cheers

The 2 foot gap was to give me space to get down to paint it as it was going to be wooden. A waste of space agreed, maybe not needed if its pressure treated or as you suggest use some of the wall. Going either side of The wall is an interesting idea, I'll have to look I to that.

They haven't objected to a garage, I haven't applied for a garage, if I did I think if I kept it within the boundary of the wall I would have no problem, they objected to me moving the wall which they can see and will mean they will have less pretty garden to look at. If i'm honest if I'd spoken to them all about it before I put the planning in I probably would have had more chance but it just didn't occur to me that there would be an issue, all I wanted to do was move a wall a few meters. I can see it from their viewpoint, new person moves in and I've stuffed a planning application in before they've even met me to change 'their' street. Anyway back to the garage, extending the house over 2 stories is a great idea, I could make a 6 bed, 3 ensuite monster with a huge garage / workshop, however I don't have the readies for such an ambitious project or the inclination for an even bigger mortgage so i think thats out Just doing the wall did cross my mind, but I'm not sure I'm brave enough take that risk. A bloke in teh village did it with concrete posts and wooden fence and the council made him cut it to a meter, out of protest he just sthil sawed through the lot The steel garage is an interesting thought, however I will have to run it past the director of style I think so far the options are bottom of the garden or what i've drawn.

I'm pretty sue that because I took the wall to appeal no is no, however I assume a garage is a different project. I might have a word with the council, although I fear at this stage such a big development would be a bit too pricy. Atleast if I put up a wooden garage it would come down easily too. Think I will do a bit of reading and asking around. Cheers

No, it was all 5 neighbours that were the objection, that's where the idea for scrap cars and mouldy caravans came from I'd like to be a bar steward but as you know in reality I'm just too nice My mrs had an old escort once that grew mushrooms in the footwell, some neighbours objected to me parking it outside their house so they boxed it in with 2 cars. I got it out in a fit of rage by using the bumpers for what they were designed for then spent the next week expecting a knock on the door followed by a broken nose but it never came and I never got boxed in again

Lot of ideas there The garage is the same construction as the main house but its tiny. It's single story with an apex roof running away from the house. Originally it was a double with the other half under the house but the previous owners turned this into an extra room. The dividing wall they built makes it very narrow but we do use it for a car. I can't easily extend this garage as the boiler, consumer unit and meters are all on these external walls. I could add another garage on the end which was my first thought but its about 10 foot to the wall which isn't wide enough by the time you've considered the thickness of the wall and I didn't fancy going to planning again to try build past the wall,, although using someone experienced is a good idea! Extending back would be good but tricky due to the direction of the apex roof, I'd either have to put a flat roof on which would end up very low or replace the entire roof on the current garage and the cost would just run away. This is my wife's preferred option, but only because she wants to add rooms above 8-/. In a money no object world this would definitely be the best option! The land is mine right upto the footpath, there are two houses behind mine and the wall is aligned with the fronts of these - i guess this was the original building like. The town council, parish council and highways had no problem with the development but the 5 neighbours effected by it objected. I can understand why, it would box them in, so my second application was an attempt to find a middle ground, which didn't work as I got the same 5 objections. I don't particularly want to fall out with the neighbours, at the end of the day they're nice people who are just trying to look after their interests. I wouldn't be comfortable with a 1m wall / fence / hedge as I'm a believer that the best security is to have things out of sight. My last offroader was parked behind a steel palisade fence and an 18" wall at my workplace with CCTV and where people work 24/7 and it still disappeared without a trace. All things to ponder

I did think about putting it at the bottom of the garden but there are already other buildings there which I didn't put on the plan and having it at the side keeps it all out of sight which reduces nagging potential It would lend itself to future expansion though The hedge is a good idea, my only concern is after my planning ordeal I've learn't that I can't have any boundary over a meter, if a neighbour ever complained about a tall hedge I would have to trim it back :/ I am tempted to buy loads of scrap cars and mouldy caravans and store them there though Underground, hmmm, that means I would need a digger...sold

Loose belt, shot pump, iffy steering box, problem with the axle would be things I look at. Can you adjust the tree play on the land rover box, never looked that closely but if they moved on the suzuki boxes they went flipping tight.

To keep a long story long I'm looking for ideas for a garage & storage space. I was talked into buying this house as SWMBO loved it, it was a bargain and despite a distinct lack of 'man' space and an abundance of 'woman' space I told myself that there was room to redress the balance. 2 years, two planning applications and an appeal to the secretary of states office later, I was left unable to expand as I desired and am now looking for alternatives. Essentially I want a garage big enough to store and work on the Range Rover and a secure place to store the trailer. Both have been in a unit at work for several years and I'm starting to get uncomfortable with how much I'm taking advantage! I've attached a plan of my plot (red bits are what isn't there yet), my planning application was to move the brick garden wall nearer the footpath giving me loads of space but basically the neighbours didn't like it. So far I've had the dropped kerb extended, moved the street sign, made and installed gate posts for the 'double gate' and the gates are underway. My current plan is to pave the whole area and put a wooden garage where the range rover is shown leaving just enough space for the trailer to sit at the side of the existing garage. It's a bit wasteful of space but about the best I can think of, alternative ideas welcomed Plot.pdf

None of my wire colours matched, some were part of the old loom some the new wires I put in. Some matched that diagram some didn't to suit how I fitted things. I would recommend keeping a log or diagram as you go along of your specific car as it makes fault finding at a later stage much easier. I would avoid 2 relays if you can, it will work but its unnecessary complication and increases the chance of a fault and makes later faults harder to find. If your planning on using the lr wiring for the fuel pump then I would keep that one, if your wiring fresh I would use the ms one. But that's just me ...

Everyone moans about the 37 pin connector - when your building the boards could you not just solder in a load of cable tails for connecting to more suitable sockets?

Your right, I guess it'll be a suck it and see, if I can't find springs I will have to fall back on spacers.

Saw this on a buggy someone made but they kept the independent suspension for smoothing the bumps at speed and had them connected like a beam axle for greater flex. They used shogun parts as apparently they are relatively cheap, strong and available with factory fit lockers.

I want more height so that the front matches the back as I've taken weight off the back and it's raised. Of course I could lower the back but I figure I've bellied out loads and rolled it no times so I might as well go up. I've never been a fan of body lifts just for tyre clearance, on my last offroader I cut out the inner arches, moved them up 5" and welded them back in body lifting this would be a pain as I would have to alter roll cage, sliders, bumpers and I'm too lazy for that Thanks for the advice

Thanks for the info. Got the fuel tank plumbed in last night and got the engine running again - even if I did get a face full of petrol in the process :/ Plan is rebuild the front axle (haven't touched it in 3 years so might as well give it a fettle whilst it needs a diff) then put one of the rear springs on the front and see how it sits then make a decision based on the findings Cheers all

Hmmm, I feel like I should start showing you more respect now your an authoritative figure... Nope, the feeling has passed - phew! Enjoy!

Cheeky! If you must know I did jetwash it before i started the bobtail, if I didn't my cutting disk wouldn't have been big enough to reach the metal through the mud! Hmmm, interesting, I think it would give about the same lift as the ba2257 but at a slightly higher poundage... And half the cost! Decisions decisions!

Quick question, I'd rather have longer springs at the front than spacers if I can find some so i've been searching a few websites for different combinations but most seem to be the same length as mine but at a much higher rate which might be counter productive, however I currently have the following; Weight on front axle 1150kg (including axle) Front springs BA2256, rate 135lbs, height 440mm, wire 15mm Rear springs BA2257, rate 150lbs, height 459mm, wire 15mm So what if I got another set of rears for the front? They are 20mm longer and a slightly higher rate so if I've calculated correctly I think I could get an extra 45mm. What do you think? Other best fit option is; BA2107, rate 196lbs, height 413mm, giving about an extra 45mm - can't be better than longer softer springs? BA2255, rate 208lbs, height 440mm, giving about an extra 80mm - Got to be too high and too stiff! Opinions

So had a poke about today, not too bad! Front axle weight is 1150kg, the rear at 875kg. Seems to flex ok at the back, the tyres hit the inner arch about an inch before the axle hits the bump stop and the shock bottoms out. Maybe because its sat higher it's getting more of an angle on the axle? Either way the main thing I want to achieve is to pick the front end up to level it out so I'm going to stick some spring spacers on the front, maybe longer shocks too, still undecided. Anyway here it is work in progress

sorry wrong window

Hacksaw?! I wish! I used a junior blade with a bit of tape around the end!!! No wonder theres an energy crisis if your using powered tools?!?!

I've got a question about one of your tools, I've never seen one like it before. Whats the Grey and Blue thing? I feel it's something amazing that I'm missing out on?

Not a problem, pop over for one anytime... Whilst yours here there are just a few little jobs...

I can weigh it at work. Didn't realise there was a guide, thanks for the heads up!

My LPG used to pickup a couple of these wires so that it knew how fast the engine was going. It used it so that the engine would start on petrol then change to gas when you revved over 1000rpm. Maybe this is why your wiring is different? The maf has some control over the fuel pump, there could be a fault with this which is causing the pump to run all the time. There are some tests for the maf sensor in the manual you have.