Cynic-al

I've always fancied a light weight body for the range rover, looking forward to this one!

Hmmm, might have to attack it with the forklift and see what happens

I appreciate what your saying about the springs but im going to give them a try, they are the offroad springs at 133lbs as opposed to the heavy duty one at 295lbs and they are very soft, if you drive at 15mph along a lane with 4 people in it used to rub they tyres on the rear doors. I assume that's why it's lifted so much as ive taken weight off as they must be relatively long to get the correct height at standard weight? Think I will try the shocks and mounts and see what happens!

That's what I thought, but as you know I'm great at over thinking things

If its a lot of road work I would go terrafirma over britpart or procomp. An inter cooler will give you some gain. If your changing the wheels why not have a winter and summer set? keep the wheels you've got for winter as you will have more choice of tyre and your less likely to damage them with a thicker walled tyre if you skid?

Perhaps it would've been a fair swap before I chopped the back end off, however losing the weight has probably knocked £50 off its true value

I have an rrc that is lifted with +2" bearmach soft springs (rear is very soft) and +2" procomp shocks. All was hunky dory until I bobtailed it and removed a lot of the unnecessaries out the rear. The rear is now sat about 1.5" higher than the front so I want to level it up but I'm getting a bit confused. The rear is now higher so although the rear suspension will still have the same flex overall, relative to the vehicle it's going to have more up than down. So I was planning to change the rear shocks for +5" but do I need raised shock mounts? If its effectively now got a 3.5" lift then I raise the shock mounts by 2" am I ending up with 0.5" less drop :/. Or do I need the +2" to stop the shocks bottoming out on up travel? Now the front, I see gwyn Lewis does spring spacers that would level it up but they leave the shocks in the original place so again if I have 3.5" lift will the +5" shocks fit or will I need extended shock towers for the same reason as above? Confused!

I'll find it out and test it out of curiosity and let you know. Sounds like its a bit like a windscreen wiper with the auto park.

Thats brilliant! I'll swap you it for a scrap yard range rover once you've finished it.

I just wrote a letter from my employer stating that I although I am not a qualified mechanic working for a garage I am a fitter who has responsibility for the legality of a fleet of vehicles. It's not untrue as although I don't service or repair them I do buy bulbs, batteries, fuses, wipers, screen wash, deicer, car washing supplies etc for all the 12v stuff. The guy I got and the manager only gave it a glance, I think they're happy for you to have one as they know your probably just going to go to their store rather than phoning around. Plus they're open evenings & weekends so I can call in when I'm in town rather than having to make a special trip as I can't send someone else with my card.

I've just taken one off an '89 (did they have the same part?) but I don't know if it works, I can test it if you can tell me how. Is it 12v in one direction for open and the other direction for closed? If it works you can have it for the cost of postage, saves me putting it in the bin.

I got there about half 12, (went to another show at stoneleigh in the morning) and got mightly confused by the parking, think I went in the wrong gate as all the signs were facing the other way Ended up being parked in a compound that a fair walk from the building. Really enjoyed it, came very close to buying lots of bits but I'm not 100% sure what I want yet so decided the bargains might not be bargains. Was still nice to see the traders and write down a few company names for when I am ready. Bought some axle stands that were a tenner cheaper than machine mart so in my mind I got in for free Taking my son was also a bonus as I put the axle stands in his pushchair and made him walk Left about half 2.

Just be careful as when you convert it takes it at drawing scale & sets the dim scales in autocad so it appears to be model scale but it isn't. I once had a load of laser cut parts arrive 1/3rd size as they had fed the electronic file into the cutter

I feel that autocad is getting a bit of a bad press here, but what people need to get in the mindset of is that autocad is electronic pencil & paper, solidworks is virtual manufacturing. Let me give an example, a kitchen manufacturer around here has designed all their kitchen cupboards on solidworks, they then use another piece of dassult software called drive works to set all the parameters for the cupboards. Anyone who is an agent is given driveworks, they select from drop boxes or through numeric entry what size each cupboard needs to be, what finish, handles etc. It then creates a photo render of the kitchen for the customer, the layout plans for the fitter and sends the order to the factory. At the factory the order and the cnc data for the router is automatically generated, all they need to do is load the wood and post it. Even though the agent has no knowledge of solidworks they have designed and manufactured the kitchen and they cannot design something that cannot be made. Now lets say I'm fitting a kitchen at home, I've been to B&Q picked my kitchen and seen that cupboards come in 450mm, 600mm or 900mm wide. All i need to do is work out the best combination of cupboards to fit my kitchen. To do this in something like solidworks i would have to model the room, each cupboard, create an assembly etc etc and it would probably take half a day. If i do it in autocad i just draw a box that is my kitchen and a box for each cupboard and in half an hour i'm done. Yes solidworks would provide a lot more information but i don't need it so its just costing me time. Then couple it to the real world and once your kitchen arrives you find out that your walls arn't straight or vertical and the time you spen't on SW was immaterial. I still use both every day. The trainers said to me when i was learning solidworks that i would never use autocad again and never do a drawing again. It just doesn't work like that.

Good luck, we've been really hampered by this very problem. My current suppliers give a lead of 2 weeks which becomes 4 or 6. Thee are mistakes and poor finishes. Last year I drove around 20 companies with drawings for £5k of work that would be repeat business. Only 3 even came back to me with a price. If I can get 2 out of 3 from a good price, quality or lead time I consider it good. I find it very sad.

You have to learn the place of each package before you pick one or slag one off. Solidworks will probably be the easiest to learn and the most useful. They do a free package called draught sight which is basically autocad. I did the sw certified about 6 years ago and can lend you all the books with tutorials if you want to learn it. They're a little out of date but the proncipals are the same. Might have two copies of some if you want some to keep.

My theory with trailer tyres is go for the highest load you can get. They get abused so much I like to have a good margin. I got mine from my local tyre place that does cars, agri, commercial etc, 8-ply and something like 1100kg per tyre from memory. They were only about £40 a tyre fitted

I got phenolic ply board from arnold lavers a couple of years ago for mine, £40 a sheet so £160 for the whole trailer. The old stuff had gone as the person who put it on hadn't sealed the edges they'd just put a bit of silicone on so I used decking edge sealer after I'd cut to size. It is thin and really sinks in. Not much use if you've bought your timber already? Have you thought of creosote it soaks in to timber pretty well.

Nice work Vac forming would be the way, cheap tooling, cheapish material and fast cycle. Haven't had any done for a couple of years but as a guess a wooden mould would maybe cost £500 and £5 per moulded part. I did a similar thing by moulding GRP in a polystyrene form I CNC hot wire cut on my old SJ. I also made a terminal box by making an injection mould tool out of a marj tub, card board, tin foil and studding. I purged the material from a moulding machine barrel into the mould and packed it with a brass rod. That takes me back to when I had time for sillyness

I had parafin in before but it gradually reverted to something similar to crude oil. I now use rock oil soluble oil cleaner (SOC), comes in 25litre drums and i think they were about £30 a drum. I'm very impressed with what it can achieve with no manual scrubbing.

Mines on the roof of the car next to the ECU on a sheet of ali, I did use some decent shielded cable from the VR... which i'm told was quite expensive... after i'd helped myself to half the reel Some people i've spoken to say they don't even use shielded cable.

Yes, the pipe from the check valve is the decompression pipe so that must be the pressure switch too

I got 2 cteks, one for my landy and one for my dads MG. My dad leaves his on all the time to keep the battery topped up, I put mine on for a few days before an event just to make sure its charged. I like them because you know they aren't going to damage your battery if you leave them on. I also have one of the clarke 12/24v start and charges that I use for charging from flat or jump starting. It will hapily charge at 30 or 40 amps, I even use it to get the 11 litre 6 cyl wagon at work going if its been stood for a few weeks and the batteries have gone soft.

Just bare about an inch, wrap them around each other and put a bit of sellotape over them... thats what people do on cars I've bought before anyway I crimped mine into a 4-way waterproof plug.

Just bare about an inch, wrap them around each other and put a bit of sellotape over them... thats what people do on cars I've bought before anyway I crimped mine into a 4-way waterproof plug.