Cynic-al

You could've got the tubes in line No way I could do one that neat, how many stops and starts did it take you to get all the way around?

Glad you fixed it!

I had this with one of mine, it relies on a ball bearing dropping in and out so make sure you have it the right way up whilst your trying to pull it out. If that doesn't work you can take the plastic end cap off and release the mechanism, you'll probably break some of the clips though. Mine still went on ok but if its too lose you might have to glue it on.

The spacers are under the seat runners, if it has them you won't miss them!

I would sign up to places like bid spotter, Edward Symmons, Lot Surf etc and watch the industrial auctions, see if anything comes up near you. Alternatively this single phase with dro might fit what you want http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-cq6230a-2-910-metal-turning-lathe-prod856971/#bottomsection

My drivers seat is the same, I swapped the leather to the manual base Just don't have a manual base for the passenger side

My electric seats were on the 4 spacers, if you can remove them it would maybe give you an inch or two. I've changed the drivers seat to a manual and will do the passenger one when I get around to it. Anyone know if you can swap the electric winders for manual?

Someone I know runs one of the DIY style ones. Essentially a hand held cutter but with a different torch, xyz steppers and Mach 3 to take a dxf and drive the motors. Think I was about 4k as a kit. Don't know what make it is. I get my laser cutting done by ESP at Rotherham, for what they charge and the turn around they offer it would be hard to justify buying and running a plasma

Finally got it finished, there are things I would do different if I was doing it again but it'll do

Can you find any leather backed ones?

If you can make a diesel drive like a petrol I will convert. I drive diesels every day of all types and it doesn't matter what the figures are on paper none are enjoyable to drive. You just spend your time either waiting for the turbo or snatching for the next gear. OK the twin turbos are better but not in my scope Out of interest has anyone ever supercharged one?

Dan, if I wash it you'll be able to see all the problems :/ The electric handbrakes are a pain. They're supposed to auto release when you pull away but half the time they don't. We have grand espace at work where the alternator and battery failed, getting that handbrake off was a real pain. The emergency release wasn't up to much. We got it jump started to run it to the garage and got the handbrake off but none of the dash including the digital speedo worked. I know they like to change things for the sake of changing them but sometimes I feel like were going backwards. Post ruined

That's the one Dan! It certainly out turned the oil tanker like range rover! BTW do you want to MOT the range rover

The best one I ever saw was someone who had replumbed the system with one circuit on the left and one on the right. Each had an on off solenoid valve by the servo. By using the indicator stalk they could brake just the left or right. It turned like a tank!

It's a 40 litre tank with a pre filter, inline electric pump and filter running off the standard wiring and connecting to the standard fuel lines. Wish I'd taken the time to get one under the floor though.

I've just done mine. I don't have a headlining but I guess you use a GRP one? Mine went up nearly 2" on BA2257's at the back but they are a long & soft spring. I'm in the process of altering the front suspension now to try level it. My 2 mistakes were; 1. I decided to weld a lump of box to the back of the chassis to be rear bumper, cross member, body mount and recovery point all in one. I didn't realise until I put the body on how low it had actually ended up. If I were doing it again I would retain the rear of the chassis so that it still swoops back up. 2. I bought a plastic / alloy tank for the boot but theres actually still loads of space under the floor so I would either make a new or cut and shut the standard tank and keep the standard pump. I took off about 14", I would've taken more but that was as far as I could go with the roll cage I had. http://s511.photobucket.com/user/aj_turner/media/RRC/bobtail/IMG_1191_zps17925063.jpg.html'> http://s511.photobucket.com/user/aj_turner/media/RRC/bobtail/IMG_1194_zps0f0e471c.jpg.html'> http://s511.photobucket.com/user/aj_turner/media/RRC/bobtail/IMG_1220_zps96d9e388.jpg.html'> http://s511.photobucket.com/user/aj_turner/media/RRC/bobtail/rr5_zps576fbf1b.jpeg.html'> http://s511.photobucket.com/user/aj_turner/media/RRC/bobtail/rr3_zpsfaff0052.jpeg.html'> http://s511.photobucket.com/user/aj_turner/media/RRC/bobtail/8ACD3738-7DF9-43C4-99DB-BF6A52D7A1E1-4509-00000385D8E65AF4_zpsf506ffe4.jpg.html'>

We have some obsolete hydraulic ones at work that use the same principal, they do two bends at once using a wide centre tool with a wiper that follows the bend around. Done millions of bends in their time. Good machines in their day We also have an obsolete one of these but we only have tooling upto 3/4" I think we pinched a drive out of it for another machine too :(

Moving a little slowly by my standards too, crack on.

We have a Colchester triumph 2000 and every mould tool maker has one stuck in the corner, it does its job. We got it from an auction with dro, 3&4 jaw chuck, a few quick change tool posts, chuck roller bearing guide for the tail stock and A selection of tooling for £600 so there are bargains to be had. The Harrison's we used at college did their job too! In fact I'd almost say I preferred them, but maybe that's just nostalgia! With regard to getting a 3phase supply, although its the best solution it's pretty expensive, a friend did it and it pricked the interest of the council who decided he was running a business, needed planning for chang eof use of premesis and should pay business rates. :/ I believe the digital inverters are more efficient, the soft start isn't so useful on a lathe as you tend to engage the load mechanically and use the on off on the machine but it is kinder on the supply and should help if it is a smaller supply.

I have the 265 insa tyres, about 31" overall. In 3 years I've broken two rear diffs and one front shaft. The front shaft was my fault as it was when the back diff broke and I was trying t get out of a hole. The rear diffs were trying to climb hills, they just went pop with no real drama. That said if i don't make it the first three times i'm not the sort that thinks going faster and harder will make it work and the auto box does help keep it gentle. I have a 2" suspension lift and my tyres hit the inner arches before the axle hits the bump stops. That said if its going to be a rock crawler then bodywork probably isn't going to be an issue

I would say easy to fit if you get a good kit but not so easy to tune, do they offer a service where you can install and they setup? According to tinley tech website this is a map of their approved installers, have you tried one of them? http://www.tinleytech.co.uk/images/Inst-map.pdfhttp://www.tinleytech.co.uk/images/Inst-map.pdf

There's a video of it on something like the daily mail website. It's great! 5 diff locks? One in each axle and one between each axle i guess? £350,000 though? Maybe I should buy one of the australian ex-mod ones? They have a v6 diesel. Then again, diesel... shudder

Got a triumph 2000 with an old mitutoyo dro. The linear transducers look pretty much the same with the armoured cables, but you need to mount them out the way as much as possible and mount them rigidly and square to avoid wear. I've never managed to damage mine so can take a pic of the locations if it would help, I know its not the same lathe but they're much of a muchness

Depends if the pipe adaptor will restrict the flow. depends on all the down stream sizes. In reality it probably wouldn't matter. You could use a 3ph no problem, have you been to a pneumatics shop, they might be able to offer something?

Borrow or hire a plasma cutter and make a template? You could probably make quite a neat job after 47 practices! How square do the corners need to be? Could you put say a 1.5mm in each corner then used a dremel type cutting wheel between them?