Budgie

I got a pair off Ebay from a chap who makes them. Very good quality, good welding & an extra thick base where the rubber goes. You can email him on ronmaughan@hotmail.co.uk and he was selling them for £25 a pair.

Only advise to add to the above is to check the SWL (Safe Working Load) of all the shackles, chains and gantry used on the lorry to make sure it was not exceeded when lifting a 90! Goes along with the HSE side really.

Sounds like the turbo is working OK, maybe worth checking the turbo & intercooler hoses in case there are any small splits. This will cause a slightly louder whistle than normal.

I think backing off on the max fuel a little sound less destructive TBH James. Mine's at the other end, over fueling at low revs, so I'll have to have a look at backing off the smoke screw and/or star wheel a little.

That is a good video Matt, don't think you'ld catch me inside that Toyota though!!

I started with the power supply for the interior lights and then ran a new one that was a bit heavier. The coax is run through the headliner, on the driver side. There is a nice lip running the full length where the roof joins the side of the vehicle that will take the coax. You can remove the surround for the alpine windows in the rear to access it easer and I then ran the coax down passed the rear light clusted and through into the rear door.

Mine normally faces forwards, although I turn it round to face backwards when off-road, only cos it doesn't seem to take in as much dust when facing backwards. Here a link to details about how the Safari intake works.

This is the BRB bumper on the Disco, it sticks out a bit further but allows plenty of airflow around the larger intercooler (if you have one) and I've not really noticed the front digging in to any great extent. . There are some good deals on cheaper winches around just now and it's worth looking further afield. Maybe get the bumper from First Four and search around for the winch.

Aerial wise, I mounted it on the spare wheel carrier. Now, as I've got 33x12.5's on there with a D44 raised carrier, there ain't much space so I had to find a way to bend the mounting so it cleared the door, tyre & wiper and this is what I came up with: ...and with the tyre fitted it looks like this: The coax is run in through the rear door under the wiper motor and follows the rear door wiring loom into the vehicle, then up into the roof space and along to the CB. It works well over shorter distances and the whip isn't effected by trees etc.

As I don't have any sunroofs in the Disco then I've mounted it where the sunroof switch would normally be. If you get a thin enough rig then they will fit in the pockets above the sunvisors!

Hi-Lift make two types of mounting that would do for the inside of the rear door. There's the 4XRAC which is the more secure and I've got one of these on the roofrack for my HiLift. Or there's the LOC-RAC which is smaller and stops the jack foot from rattling a bit.

You could always go for a set of Mach5's and then you can have any offset you want, at a price!! I went the spacer route, using a set from Scorpion (get a set that have been safety tested and have the centering lugs on them), and if it's wheel bearings you're worried about then in the 4 or 5 years I've had mine fitted I've not had a problem with the bearings, although I do keep them well greased and check at normal service intervals.

You could keep the tyres & the look and go for a 1.41:1 ratio transfer box from a TD5 Defender. This brings the gearing back to about normal when you've got 33" or 35" tyres fitted on a Disco. I did mine about a year ago and you'll be suprised at the difference it makes. I got a rebuilt T-box from Ashcroft Transmissions and they do them from £395 plus fitting. I got a local LR service agent to fit it for me and it now drives like it did on standard size tyres. The only drawback is that this will only alter the High range gearing, the Low range will remain the same as it is now. If you want to alter both then you can change the ratios of the ring & pinion gears in both axle diffs, Ashcrofts also do these and supply them as either just the R&P or as a complete diff, although getting two diffs works out nearly double the price of the transfer box!

No problems from me Les. They may have the 110 back but there is still equipment to replace and if our donations are going towards a tracker for the vehicle & alarm for the building then it's still worthwhile. It's also nice to see different forums pulling together on something like this and a big thanks to Tony for taking care of the donations for us all.

The link that Geoff's posted seems to default to USD and not Sterling for some reason. So if anyone else wants to donate using Sterling it may be better to go into www.paypal.co.uk, log into your account and click "Send Payment". That way if defaults to Sterling.

Steve G pointed us to this thread from Mud-Club so I hope you don't mind if we do a joint donation through Tony & LR4x4 to West Brecon Cave Rescue as you've already set this one up. It is all for a good cause and it seems pointless sending two sets on donations from two different Land Rover/4x4 forums. I've made a donation and marked it "West Brecon Cave Rescue Team (Mud-Club)" and I'll ask the other Mud-Club members to do the same, just in case you wonder what it's all about and who these people are if they're not LR4x4 members Tony. Thanks for setting this up, cracking idea!

Here's a link for you with some info on it : Chiltern Cars

I found this one between Elgin & Forres: http://www.b4mud.co.uk/ Don't think there's much else around Lossie, maybe worth contacting Scottish Off Road Club and see if they have anywhere else listed.

X-Trem was interesting last year as there was a lot of rain the week before the event and it made the night section very slippery as it's all clay. They were closing some of the hills as we got there, in fact we were the last vehicle up the second hill on the course as the one behind us rolled it. There were two others I know about that rolled on the course that night but if it's dry then the course is a little less of a challenge. The drive is not bad but there are a lot of easy lanes with a couple of tricky bits but nothing too taxing, although there was a bit more water around last year. Because of the night section hold-ups it was 3:30 in the morning before we got back to the campsite and then we had to be up and ready for a 9am start on Saturday so make sure you get plenty of sleep on Thursday!! The XX-trem is maybe full already as there isn't that many places, I think they were only talking about 50 for this year and as they have reduced the total entry to 200 vehicles this year then I'm not surpised that it's filling up fast. I'd try & get on the X-trem if you can as the Adventure is just like a normal drive around the lanes, nothing taxing at all.

I'd be looking at the U/Js on the shaft up to the steering column. Sounds more like one of the U/Js has a dry joint in it. This would cause the steering to feel stiff & notchy but rather than grease try a good soaking with light oil and see what happens. If a swivel bearing needs adjusting then you'ld be getting a vibration as you ran over a bump in the road, never known it to cause stiff steering but it's easy to check, just put the wheels back on and grab the wheel at the 6 & 12 o'clock and try to move it. If you feel movement then it's your swivel bearing pre-load.

For anyone looking to go this year, the site says it'll be open around the March 31st and it looks like it'll be restricted to 200 vehicles this year instead of the normal 300+. So you better get in there fast if you want to go this year! Anyone know who this is (Tony) from 2005?

In the Disco I've gone for an electric window switch with a seperate power on/off switch. Nice & easy to wire up and I can still use the normal remote for spooling. Not a good photo but you get the idea, oh and it's a 3 door so I had two blanks on the centre consol for the winch controls.

Same here, couldn't get to any events or meetings so not much point really. Although I'm a wee bit closer then you are!!

You don't have to cut that much to make room for 33x12.5R15's!!

If you look on the link I posted above then it gives the tyre dia'. If you take half the dia' and measure from the centre of the hub towards the wing on your Disco then you'll see how much room you'll have left. Saying that. the 235/75x16's aren't on there, although 245/75's are. Yep, just space the rollbar chassis mounts and you should be fine. I would wait until you've done the lift & got the tyres on there to see what it drives like. It may drive fine, in which case you wouldn't need the radius arms. If it wonders, "tramlines", has a much reduced self centering of the steering or generally feels unsafe then you're best to get a set of radius arms. The trailing arms shouldn't need fitting unless you want extra drop on the rear axle for increased articulation. If you're not happy with the looks of the front trailing arm bushes (the big ones) then you can just fit a "kicker plate" between the chassis & the bush to angle it slightly. MM 4x4 sell them and they are on their advert in most Land Rover mags, although I can't see them on the website. MM 4x4 also sell the radius arms & trailing arms as do Scorpion Racing, and QT Services do the radius arms. I've fitted the Scorpion Racing ones on mine, both radius & trailing arms and had no problems.