ejparrott

Nothing wrong with having more than one battery This is very true, provided you can sort out the rest of the vehicle electrics to run on 24V

Silent coat and a Wright Offroad Soundproof kit.

That's confusing...it's Richard at Wards also!

Ends off, screws along the top

Stick to 12V. Much easier

Advice from Wards is to fit the new plug with a hard setting loctite like 603/638, and not a non-setting sealant like Hylomar. Certainly worked for mine. You need to remove everything that's in the way of you getting a square on clean working area. When you fit the new one you need to have a straight line clear access, as you'll need to hammer it in with a suitable punch. After removing the old plug, clean the seat up with emery. Clean it up only, don't remove metal. To fit the new plug, find a socket that's about 1mm smaller in diameter than the inside of the cup side of the new plug. The cup side goes outwards. I use an extension in the socket and use the socket backwards.

I think the worst bit really is the top plate of the wiper cover, where it's pressed out to fit the little plastic piece. Mostly it's otherwise flat or easy shapes.

Take the top off the dash

It's a government agency....they're never going to loose out, or have to do any work!!

DVLA. Onus is on the owner to proof when it was done.

I use Hermes, they're a budget courier/carrier....they give tracking numbers, so he's talking bull.

If it's dropped back down to 88/95, it sounds like you have had an airlock. Keep an eye on it, monitor it for the next few trips.

Yeah...my recon PAS box went missing for a week.....started getting very irate with Paddocks who weren't answering emails...eventually got a call from NPS...Paddocks had only given them the wrong house number.........

Have they proof of postage? Must admit, it's not a company I've heard of before

Depending on the pressure rating of the cap the coolant won't boil at 104, it'll be more like 120 because it's a pressurized system. That said, the temperature should really be sitting just above the temperature rating of the stat, and should not fluctuate that much. My 200 has no fan, that sit's at about 95 C no matter how hard I push it up the motorway, even towing. Now I know the TDi's are well known for being overcooled and the FL being a more modern car will be designed more around an efficient rad and less spare capacity, but other conventional car's I've driven which are built on the same kind of system, do not fluctuate that much. The fact that the temperature gauge on the dash didn't move however makes me wonder......

When I rebuilt ours after our accident 4 years ago I fitted 3 new galv bearers, then sprayed the rest with stone chip

I did recently come across a good write up on the web of someone who rebuilt their dash and recoated it. I can't for the life of me remember where it was, but it is out there. I need to have a serious look at both of mine

http://roamerdrive.com/

There is the roamerdrive

I think the process is covered in the Haynes, but I also think the practice is to just replace with the 3-hole - best get that confirmed before you order it though. If the gaskets gone, have you put a straight edge on the head to make sure it's not warped?

Straight swap, all coilers had 3.54 diffs, the only difference is early were 10-spline and late were 24-spline. There are odd differences otherwise, like half shafts and stuff, but if you swap a whole axle, that doesn't matter until you come to need spares, when you have to remember what you fitted!

Export a .dxf file, or just print it. We've had a number of .stp files over the last few years, we're not equipped to handle them in house, we're only a little company, we're not like Siemens or GE. There's nothing wrong with AutoCad for 2D, I used to use LT98. Solidworks is much better for 3D though. There is one major flaw with Solidworks though - there is no option to save your work as an older version, which means if you have the most up-to-date version and send it to someone who's copy is 6 years old (happens to me regularly) then they can't just open it up.

43k on the motorway sounds highly unlike to have worn out pads and rotors. The fact that's it's permanent 4x4 has nothing to do with it. By sheer physics the fronts always brake more than the rear, 2WD or 4WD. Ask them for the old bits, I'll bet you'll find there's little wrong with them and they've took a chance on doing un-requested work

It's no wonder that got pulled!

I do my best to keep the motors in the best shape I can, but I do occasionally miss things. I like my MoT man because he's strict, and he finds the bit's I've missed