SteveG

As much as I love camping , as we are going to one of the wettest places in the UK in late November put me down for accommodation too. Cheers Steve

They might not be on the site (haven't looked) but they do supply HD shafts and CV's for Rover axles. IIRC the tested breaking point increases to about double 6500 ft/lb. Seeing as there is no benefit over Ashcrofts and both companies have an excellent reputation, then for anyone based in UK you'd be better buying Ashcrofts for ease of replacement if anything did break. Cheers Steve

if they are both stndard 90's, you can measure between top and bottom spring mounts and height should be in the region of 265mm for stndard height. If buying standard LR springs in the UK, you can often find cheap sets on ebay off new Defenders that have visited twisted performance, JE Engineering etc. I picked up two pairs recently for 99p a pair plus shipping. If you can afford buying DeCarbons, (~£40 each) they are worth it for ride and handling if you do lots of on road miles. Cheers Steve

I've always thought that good things are worth waiting for! Steve

I would think it doesn't matter whether they have weights are on or not. AS long as they are all intact. What I do know is that the beads can only go so far. I have the beads in my wolf wheels with BFG 255/85 16's and all are unbalanced. Wolf's seem to have a reputation as hard to balance, and I found that when I first fitted them with the Counteract beads I still had some shake. I moved the front tyres to the rear and rears to the front and the shake is a lot less now and acceptable. So if the wheel is really out of balance the beads can not cure it. In my opinion, if you want a well balanced wheel, don't buy the beads. If like me you have local places that either refuse to balance 'large' mud terrains or if they do, the weights start flying off after less than a mile of driving, then the beads provide an acceptable solution. Cheers Steve

what are the two rears like? Could try moving them to the front and see if they are better. Cheers Steve

Col, if you want I can get some here and post them to you in a jiffy bag. Or if there is someone at Emirates Heathrow that I could post to that would be easy too. LR dealers can get most parts in next day and I've got to go to Cambridge at least a couple of times this week. If so PM me part no. and I'll phone them tomorrow and get some. Cheers Steve

That's good to know Stephen. The RR is used only for on road but I put the AT2's on hoping that wear rates would be good. Not a fan of standard fit M+S tyres like Wrangler HP, Scorpions etc due to the fact that as soon as they are half worn the RR starts to tramline badly. Having the beefier AT's also helps when you have to put it into verge to avoid the idiot who comes round a blind bend in the middle of the road, or the drivers that expect to you to put your 4x4 in the hedge so they can keep their shinny new car 2 ft from edge of road. Happens all the time around here. Cheers Steve

As above, they are a good choice. Steve

It's probably only worth doing on a vehicle that gets used Tim! Steve

I have no idea, I just bought the kit and used it . I'm sure a quick look at the data sheets will let you know. Thanks Steve

Rustbuster, rust.co.uk. I bought via ebay to get 15% off. This ebay offer runs until 2nd September IIRC, with code CRV2. I bought this kit here at £89 including shipping so, about £76 after discount.. Dinitrol kit Spray gun is a Sealey one that works on all schultz type cans. It worked fine with no problems. The 4941 takes some cleaning out of gun, and I was glad that I bought enough white spirits. They do a more expensive kit with a better gun, but as I say, the Sealey one was fine for me. Cheers Steve

3125 is very similar to waxoyl in finish, but then you coat with 4941 which is better with no slime. It is a waxy film but it dries to a semi-hard finish. It's hard to say what the end finish is like as I suspect that it will harden more over the nextfew days. Maybe someone who has more experience will chime in. Prep wasn't too bad. I just washed chassis and axles with soapy water and rinsed. I also I knocked the mud out of the normal trap spots. No more than that. It took longer to longer to mask out than anything else. I covered all four hubs, exhaust, rear arms, fuel tank pipes, fuel filter pipe joins, shock and radius arm rubbers, and parking brake\transfer box. Cheers Steve

Now the 90 is in it's 4th year, I thought the chassis and axles needed some attention. The actual main chassis was in good nick still, but the axle seams and various scrape points were rusting. So I thought I'd treat and hopefully I won't have to touch it again for another 3 1/2 years at least! I was dreading doing it after reading all the horror stories. I steared away from the normal waxoyl as I haven't been impressed by it when I've used it in can form. So I bought a kit of Dinitrol that came with a shultz air spray gun, 2x 1L cans of 3125 and 3 1L cans of 4941. I also bought 2 disposable paint suits, 4x rolls of masking tape and 4L white sprirt. I spent the evening before cleaning it off, which wasn't too bad after spending a few hours cleaning the underside on Sunday after Slindon I used some decorators sheet that I already had to cover the drive, hubs, exhaust etc and used masking tape where I didn't want the spray to go.. The spraying actually went fine. I found that a pressure of around 4.5 bar worked well. Only problems was that the two cans of 3125 wax only covered chassis and axles and so I didn't have enough to do inside of the chassis. So if you want to do inside of chassis and doors etc I'd buy an extra two cans of 3125. As expected the 3 cans of 4941 was more than enough and the finish looks ok.. Once off the stands I used a brush and the last remaining bit of 4941 to cover any bits I had missed. All in all it took a day to mask/spray and then an hour to take off all of the masking the following morning. It worked out about 80 pounds for the Dinitrol kit (I used an ebay promotion to get 15% off) and about 20 pounds for the extra suits, white spirit etc. I'll see how it lasts, but so far looks good and it was a lot less hassle than I thought it would be. Cheers Steve

Just think of it this way Col, think of all the time you are not spending under the 110 cleaning mud off with a pressure washer. This now leaves plenty of time for maintenance work! I agree, a Patrol with better comfort, good aircon and a nice V8 roar as you head up the dunes sounds a better proposition for where you live now. Cheers Steve

If Ben doesn't want it, I'll buy it off you John. Cheers Steve

Lindsay (spelling?) Porter in LRM mag has just bought an export LHD 300TDI CSW and had it SVA'd with no problem. He even converted it back to RHD. Cheers Steve

what about straight out the back and pointing down before rear crossmember? Seems to work well on mine. With a custom one you would be able to get better angle and have it up and out of the way further than mine, as mine is just a cut and weld modification to a standard 90 rear section. cheers Steve

I saw these on the witham site yesterday when I was looking there. They are priced up at 11,950 +VAT wvs Decent price for 110 tray back winch challenge project Will?? Cheers Steve

There is enough room between the rear face of the tube and the winch motor and winch gear set to make up some L shaped brackets to mount some spots either side of the winch.. Southdown make some good bumpers, the ones I know are tapered rather than square. Mantec make a good standard looking square bumper, but it's also at standard height so approach angle is same as standard bumper. Cheers Steve

What this one showing better articulation?? Cheers Steve

I have a First Four one too. Personally I'm not that keen on tubular design and prefer standard bumper look, but it was only one I found that had good aproach angle properties. As for winch, I'd recommend a TDS 9.5 from David Bowyer over lowline Warn or EP9.5. Here are some pics.. with TDS.. with previous ep9.. Cheers Steve

They are offset at the axle end by nature of the design of the arms, to better clear the mounts when fully articulated. Bushes used are standard ones. Here's some pics of messing around with them at Slindon at weekend.. Cheers Steve

Here's some pics from me. I only got my camera out for the last hour, so by then I was lacking entrants to photo all gathered.. Most entrants found the local marshals a tad distracting... actually I found that a tad districating while I was cut and pasting from photobucket The spectators getting impatient.. Nige's 90 after winching into outback... another walking wounded.. Oh and my 90 in the background that unlike Nige's drove into the and out of the outback several times This pic gives an idea of some of the terrain.. you have to be careful in your choice of tree to winch off as this tree in the foreground shows.. this 90 trayback completing punch 13, the only one's to do so all day.. Not before breaking their rear winch line.. managing to fit another punch in with 10 mins to go.. Cheers Steve

I just ordered a litre of that earlier today, along with some dinitrol 3125 and 4841 to tart my axles and chassis up. Sounds like it was a good choice. Cheers Steve