SteveG

For TD5 no wading plugs are needed. You'll need about 7m of 6mm OD tubing, and a 'Y' or inline push fit. Use new tubing to extend front and rear axles. I took both into engine bay. I snipped off bend in gearbox breather in engine bay and used a Y push fit to join with front breather and then extended this and rear breather up to top of snorkel. Instead you could snip off gearbox breather U-bend and fit an inline push fit to extend it with some extra pipe and take all 3 breathers up snorkel. TD5 Fuel tank breathers' have a good non return valve so don't need extending. Holes on bottom of ECU can be sealed. And if you want to wade deeper than seat height then you should really relocate Engine and Alarm ECU's and under seat fuse box and ABS/ETC ECU if fitted. Steve

Subuaru Forrester? Steve

[LR Fashion Police] NOOOOOOOOOO! [/LR Fashion Police] :lol:

don't know guardian, so can't answer your question, but can give you a thumbs up for First Four. 1st class bumpers with good fitting, durable coating and well made recovery points at a very good price. I've had two bumpers from the and both were A1. Personally I haven't heard of anyone having an issue with Peter or his bumpers. Cheers Steve

Yes, search for range Rover 20" and just be patient. Sets come up often with tyres that have no tread and nobody wants these. For example http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Range-Rover-20-Alloy...id=p3286.c0.m14 Cheers Steve

Goodyear MTR's are best bet for 19". Not an overly aggressive MT , but good road manners and fairly quiet too. More aggressive than an AT, and generally a very good choice for on road and off in varied terrain. If you can get a set of L322 20" rims (easily available on ebay for ~200 set of four) you can fit general grabber AT2's in this size, which are just as good if not slightly better than BFG AT's. Cheers Ste

What do you want - a medal?? ;)

Legal with or without lap belts. Have to inform DVLA and insurance of seating capacity change.

Not good for the employees , as for the owners - what goes around comes around

The increased downforce at this speed pushes the bodywork down so much it rubs on the tyres. You need to take that big wing off the back!!

Heather Mills might disagree! :ph34r:

I've had 3 P38 Range Rovers, admittedly all post 2000 4.6's, and the inhibit switch does exactly as I described on all. So if it doesn't do it on all P38 RR's then this functionality was introduced at some point. I can assure you it disables the self levelling on all 3 I have had in the same way that the drivers door and rear tailgate open does if left overnight. Cheers Steve

Height on a standard 90 between top and bottom spring mount should be about 265mm I also measured mine between centre of hub and wheel arch when it was standard... RH Rear 52.3cm, now 54.8cm LH Rear 50.4cm, now 54.8cm RH Front 52.3cm, now 53.9cm LH Front 51cm, now 53.9cm I'm also running Gwyn Lewis mounts and the measurements above were taken with the same LR springs that Roy is using and Rough Country shocks. I've changed to OME N73's since. You can read more here... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5096&st=15 Cheers Steve

Also be aware that a lot of LR dealers advertise a price showing no +VAT, yet when you phone up it's + VAT. So in the approved website you can get a lot of variation in price because of this lax process in putting up price. If you are patient you can normally pick up 90 TC's at a good price. Bought my 90, six months old 3000 miles from a dealer for 10,500 +VAt Steve

This is your automotive wiring guru friend? ;) ;) You can wire directly to battery if you wish, just make sure you have an inline fuse on +ve circuit and a switch that is rated for the maximum current draw of your lights. Using a relay allows you to use cheaper lower rated switches and to run the switch off the low power ignition feed as above. Steve

As Jim says, always use torque wrench to tighten. If you do you'll never have a problem. I would replace all of the wheel nuts. If they have been overtightened in the past this will affect their ability to tighten properly. So even if you use a torque wrench from now on they may still come loose. Cheers Steve

From the symptoms you describe, it's could be the shocks. You can fit some uprated ones like DeCarbon or Old Man Emu As for the springs if you want a heavy duty spring on rear for towing, it's possible to fit these without lifting the rear. Have a look at your rear springs and let us know what colour codes are on them. Steve

press the air suspension inhibit switch on centre console before you switch off and see how it is in the morning. This will stop it changing height and if you have a leak in one corner that corner only will be down, not whole car. Cheers Steve

Hello Dave Thanks for the offer, I should be able to take you up on that. I'll pm my mobile and e-mail and you can let me know when it's convenient to come by. Thanks Steve

In the last 2-3 months of LRM magazine there has been a write up of Lindsay Porter's 110 TD5 CSW being converted LHD to RHD and the parts list is very extensive including new bulkhead etc. Maybe worth the cost of a few back copies and the current mag to read what's involved. His was done by Nene Overland, so I suspect they would have a parts listing and a good idea of costs involved. Cheers Steve

Thanks for the info guys, seems like Compushift is the way to go then. I exchanged a few PM's with Ian, Porny, and it seems that the Disco box ecu with a disco engine ECU should work with some changes, but it would be a lot of work and hasn't been done yet so unknown entity. Only thing putting me off Compushift initially was the £750 +VAT price tag, but in the end it looks like it's going to be best option. Cheers Steve

Door changed in 2005, I wasn't aware that door cards changed as i thought that most of changes were to top section of door, but they must of, going by your experience. Cheers Steve

No, you need the later Flash Eprom type Ecu. Have to hard program or change out ecu for later type. Steve

This would be a good one for the magazines to do. Take a stock TD5 and TDCi, a 4x4 rolling road and have a number of manufacturers provide their tune maps. Then in a controlled situation as possible do a number of runs with each tune and compare the curves. Then a road test to add the not so subjective part of on-road driving and mpg comparisons. Obviously mpg can't be accurate as there could be a number of variables but an approximate comparison would be useful. Cheers Steve

I am thinking about putting an auto into my 90, (2005 TD5) and have a few questions I'm looking at picking up an auto box out of a Discovery II TD5, that can be had with everything, oil cooler, pipes, selector etc. One question I have is about the electronics. What are the options/issues here?? It's possible to get the loom and gearbox ECU controller too, but can these be linked up to a Defender ECU, or a Defender ECU running a Discovery map?? Another option I've seen in their advert in the mags is Ashcroft's Compushift. Does anyone have experience of this. I assume I'll need custom propshafts front and rear? Anything else that will need to be done? Lastly are there any issues in fitting oil cooler etc into a TD5 Defender? Cheers Steve