SteveG

MT's 255/85 16's

No hassle way of doing it is here.. http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Jump.asp?MID=4 Or you can buy all the bits and do it yourself from somewhere like vehicle wiring products.

Yes the do with the correct flange.

That's true , but then I ran my BFG's for 2 1/2 years and 35,000 miles and sold them as a set of 5 with ~9mm of tread left for £250. So a set of five cost me about £250, less than your Insa's to run a good quality tyre for that many miles. I bought a new set five for £535 and hopefully I'll be able to do the same in 2.5-3 yrs. Cheers Steve

I would say it's overpriced, for example... JST's 90 Hardtop and there's a 2005 TD5 Hardtop on autotrader for 7,750 with 35K miles. But at the end of the day it's personal choice and if you find a Defender with the colour/spec you want then you are not talking about too much of a difference. Cheers Steve

Personally I'd fit 255/85 16 BFG MT's. Much better size for UK than both of the above. Cheers Steve

Just to be clear. This wasn't a flippant comment. If you have any doubts as to the health of the battery change it out and start again. P38 BECM's are very particular to battery voltage and can start to give all sort of errors and malfunctions if the battery is not 100%. It's not worth trying a number of methods to recover it if you can't be sure that battery is A1. Cheers Steve

I'd start with a new battery first. Cheers Steve

Yes, my only concern that if you are running the tank off the same pressurised feed as your locker solenoids is that if you lose pressure on the tank from something like a hose ripped off etc, you lose the operation of your lockers, so it's probably worthwhile fitting an isolating valve inline to the tank feed, or easliy being able to pull off the quick release line would do the same thing. Cheers Steve

It's good practice to fit a pressure release valve to a tank that operates at or less than it's maximum pressure. So if you have a pressure release valve, drain tap and compressor input you'll have only two outlets left. So may be worth buying the 6 port version for all of £2.15 more I have the 2.5G tank and it's a nice compact tank. I would also advise giving it a spray with waxoyl/dinitrol when fitted as mine soon started rusting. Cheers Steve

Don't know but this stuff will... FLOOR TUNNEL HEAT & SOUND INSUL. 2FT X 21" (3.5 SQ FT) - TD0505 £30.80 <script language="javascript"> Click to enlarge Click to enlarge Floor and Tunnel Heat and Sound Shield was designed to withstand direct temperatures up to 1750ºF. It also works well for under vehicle applications and because of its unique material is capable of insulating against unwanted road noise up to 50%. Excellent heat and sound barrier Withstands 1750ºF direct continuous heat Self adhesive backing for easy installation Unique material - works in harsh environments Can be cut to fit any shape http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.php?products_id=819 Steve

Hi Bish Noisekiller supply their stuff in sheets to custom cut and fit for the inside. Also once you are done buy some genuine 90 front rubber mats from LR. They are nice and thick and well fitted to cut out the noise. They also have a lip all the way round so that when the roof leaks the puddle of water is just on the mat and can be simply tipped out the door! Steve

Plastic tube would be lighter, or drinking straws lighter still. Steve

If you get a hardtop, truckcab or doublecab, then road tax will be the same as pre March 2001 Defenders TD5 has more of both Peak torque on TD5 is higher in rev range though, IIRC. TD5. Also a simple stage 1 remap from the likes of Porny on here (IRB developments) etc will make towing a even easier with a TD5 TD5

The crush cans are there as part of the frontal impact absorption. They are there to perform a number of functions, for example energy absorption in higher speed impacts, better pedestrian safety, less damage in low speed collisions (insurance cost) etc. etc. The SRS deployment is based on 3 sensors. two in the front bumper that measure acceleration/deceleration and a mid mounted sensor for side to side movement. The crush cans are not linked to any of the sensors and the sensors are not dependent on the crush cans for operation. In a frontal impact the airbags will release if certain sensor conditions are met. In fact, having a solid bumper would increase the reaction time as there is less energy absorption and the air bags would deploy a fraction earlier than a standard bumper with crash cans. It is also true then that there will be slightly lees speed needed to get the same acceleration properties in a sensor as a car fitted with crush cans. From personal experience I know that you have to have quite an impact to activate the airbags on a P38 RR. It's more than most off road knocks a bumper is going to take. Having the crushcans left on allows a solid bumper to deform back into the bodywork causing lots of potantial damage, especially if it was one with bull bars on. For this reason, I don't see the point in keeping the crush cans if you plan to off road a lot. Cheers Steve

That explains why I couldn't get it to work then . Thanks for that Ian, got any 280 models to swap for a 270? Steve

All TD5 Defenders have a 10AS as the main ECU needs to see it to start. Only possible to get a TD5 ECU running with an external modification without a 10AS. You don't need any other bits to activate 10AS. If you want remote activation you need to buy at least one fob and have it synced to the alarm. So if you want a working alarm/immobiliser with remote, just buy a fob and have it set up with a diagnostic system. As for LR dealer or independent - up to you. LR dealer may charge standard LR alarm fee of 250 pounds or at least book time at ~80 pounds per hour. Independent will obviously be less. The internal sensor is optional, and I wouldn't guarantee that it will work as you need to fit wiring to 10AS plugs too. Cheers Steve

Personally I don't see much point in doing that on an off road bumper. Cheers Steve

You could have sold this to Ray Mears as all weather fire starters ;) ..

So just to check - are you claiming that the ruts in the picture above are caused by farm tractors? If not fine, if you are then you are a liar. Cheers Steve

This is a graphical representation of what mudmad thinks of responsible laning in Wiltshire is.. posted here for all to see.. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31388&hl= and he's calling other people 'idiots' Cheers Steve

Driven down in about 2 minutes by one GBMUD once with not 1p worth of damage. Cheers Steve

you'd need to activate the CDL on the alarm unit and then see if it's providing an output on pins 3&2 on connector 57. see attached image. If so then yes, your existing fob will power the door solenoids. Cheers Steve

It seems to depend on vehicle spec. I tried to activate my 10AS for CDL and still couldn't get a pulse signal out of the correct pins on unit, some have successfully done this though. Steve

On a Defender they can be found and disabled in minutes/seconds, especially ones with GSM tracking as there are limited places to install aerial. I have personally had tracker and trackstar units fitted on cars (had to for M5 etc) and I also had a trackstar re-fitted to first Defender. It's from this experience that I know how easy it is to find one on a Defender and with a single cut disable it. As for money off insurance, I never found that they made any difference and certainly didn't bring excess down to zero. Also as soon as you have a modified Defender you can forget getting most large insurance company to insure it. It's for these reasons I say they are a waste of time and money on a Defender. Cheers Steve