stobbie

build on a 1971 tax exempt chassis....right...with coil springs. Where should one put the original chassis number, it should be on the spring hanger, but I'm sure this chassis won't have any spring hangers... yeah right!

This is unfortunately a rather common problem. At what mileage did it happen with this one?

This is your Spigot bearing. Costs only 25 pence or something, just a shame you will have to remove your gearbox for it to change...

Since a week my R380 box (D2 TD5) crunches into 4th unless I change gears very slowly. I'm getting fed up with these boxes. My first gearbox lasted for 200.000 miles without any problems, very good, and all highway miles with a big trailer. Then I let Ashcroft put in a reconditioned box, that lasted for only 15000 miles unfortunately. Ashcroft replaced that one under warranty in november, but now the gearchange problems, again after only 12000 miles (ofcourse highway miles with a 3 ton trailer). It's getting expensive to come to the UK from Holland each time to get the gearbox replaced. I haven't informed Ashcroft yet. I'm thinking of just keep driving with the crunch, because it isn't present if I just change gears slowly. But ofcourse I'm not able to sell my car ever again with a gearbox in this condition (but then again, no-one will buy it anyway with a milage of almost 250000). Also I'm affraid the box will develop other problems if I keep driving it this way, and my warranty will then be expired when the new problems arise. Am I just having bad luck, or should I buy a gearbox somewhere else, should I continu driving this box? What are your thoughts?

fuel economy is much better on a 200 in most cars (definately in mine )

Bart, first TD5 is not common-rail, second Td5 injectors are driven by the camshaft, so no way you are going to be able to use these on a tdi.... If it could be done, I think it would be of no use. The original TD5 ecu has all the options you will need for tuning.

No, I didn't! Good idea, gonna check those! To the others; The tdi is from another vehicle but it is a defender one. I don't know the history of the timing belt, so I should really go change it. I thought the engine would not run as nice as it does if the timing is out. Fuel economy is good..

The problem: Defender with 200TDI engine won't rev. I don't have a rev counter, but I think it will go to max 2500RPM. If I have the car in neutral and put my foot to the floor maybe a few hundred RPM more, but with a LOT of smoke, grey but maybe even blue. Engine runs beautiful, no smoke during driving, not even at top speed. Topspeed at this moment about 60 MPH. Also no smoke during idle. Doenst use (much) oil. I have this car about a year now, and it was like this when I bought it, but I didn't care too much about it, but now I think it would be nice if it didn't have the power of a N/A anymore, but like the TDI it is. What did I do?: 1 Changed fuel filter ----> No difference 2 Changed lift pump ----> No difference 3 New aircleaner -----> No difference 4 Checked Turbo hoses ---> These are OK and not delaminating I didn't check timing and valve clearances yet, but I think the engine is running too good for problems in those areas. Any ideas?

thanks...

Is it difficult to fit a series II front end to a defender? I see lots of people who did it the other way around, a defender front end on a series. I doesn't have to look original. Does anyone have pictures of such a thing?

Can someone explain to me why this could happen? If I charge one battery untill it's full, will the other one stay just as empty? So when I try to start, one battery will charge the other one very (too) fast? What if I charge each battery for a few hours?

I have a toyota hj60 overhere, I need to charge the batteries. This car has a 24v system, can I just put a normal 12v charger on one of the two batteries or is this a bad idea?

I think it's a good thing that they are strict about it. This is at least some trouble for the people who are stealing our Landy.... "Yes, yes...the chassisnumber on this 2006 looking Land Rover seems a little strange but it is -Really- a 1985 one, I 've just replaced the chassis and polished the rest... "

The VIN should be just behind/below the front bumper:

It is a problem when you try to export a car like that. If I take a car with a galvonised chassis to the Dutch DVLA to get it registered here they will not register it because the number is not original. They want a statement from the DVLA that the chassis was stamped by them OR that the chassis is an original Land Rover part (Richards is not allowed here)... That's a shame, now I can't buy cars with galvanised chassis in the UK (untill I can find a way to get an original looking VIN in it, with the Leyland logo's before and after it)

Lucky you don't live in Holland! Here you cannot have a single hole in the chassis or bulkhead, not even if it's only 2 mm's....

How about the chassis number? Can you have that stamped by the DVLA? Or will the car need a SVA with a new -not orignal- galvanised replacement chassis? Assuming you want it all legal and don't just stamp the new chassis yourself.

Dutch registration....

I think I'll wait untill tomorrow and check my gearbox number. I think it's the original one. My memory is very bad, I'm sure I'll forget about it all tomorrow and don't think about untill I'm home and have left the 110 at work....this happens to me all the time..

I have no access to the car now so I can't check the gearbox number. And I would like to order a cilinder this evening, was hoping someone would know which year these gearbox numbers were used, since I have a very late 300.

I need a new clutch slave for my 110 300tdi from 1999. I have no access to the car now so I can't check the gearbox number. Do I need 1 - Clutch Slave Cylinder 300TDI to gbx no. 56a0669086k --->FTC5072 or 2- Clutch Slave Cylinder 300TDI from gbx no. 56a0669087k ---> FTC5202 ? Hope someone can help!

I've got a 2000 110 CSW 300tdi, it has the seperate flanges.

I haven't checked yet, but I thought the R380 boxes didn't wear out the splines that easy anymore....

My 110 is getting a little 'cloink'. I suspect the drive flanges? Should I buy half shafts with integral flange? I think they cannot wear out anymore?

hmm, that would not be nice... I think I'll try a new sender first, it's only a few pounds...