IanS

And I can vouch for the quality.

It's behind the radiator grille.

There should be 5 wires going in. The ones you are interested in are orange, pink / purple and pink / slate. Normal locking is carried out by orange / pink/purple; superlocking by pink/slate / pink/purple. The other 2 seem to be used by the control unit to determine motor direction. Throw away the Haynes and get hold of a copy of RAVE where all is explained. Freely downloadable from several places.

Maybe that's the problem. Why not lock with the keys when the dogs are in - that disables the interior sensors.

Is there any reason why you couldn't just make up a loom with 5 injector leads from the red plug to the plug under the front of the head?

Have you looked at the boot floor yet?

That's a section of RAVE, which includes all the LR produced documentation and IMO is essential. You can get it here: http://www.sclroc.com/rave/RAVE_2001.zip - but be warned, it's big!

According to my circuit diagram, the clutch switch has an orange / green and purple / green connection. I was under the impression that the clutch switch was under the dashboard though (being an auto owner I have no direct knowledge).

May be homebrewed but a lot cheaper than the £70 I've seen those modules at. I have huge respect for Fery and his improvements.

Mine's an auto and I do use cruise control all the time on motorway / dual carriageway. Set at an indicated 73 mph (63 when towing).

Over the 40,000 miles I've had mine it's done a cumulative 22 mpg. It's generally either around town, on the motorway at 70 mph or towing a 1400 Kg caravan (for perhaps 20% of the time). I've never approached the high figures some people achieve.

Mine is the same and the keys never seem to engage properly - in fact the catches have now disintegrated completely. There is a rubber buffer at the back that sticks and it can be a real pain getting the radio out - I eventually managed with thin levers carefully used behind the front cover and getting hold of the cassette slot. There are no allen screws.

I use it in my Td5. Provided it meets the specs it shouldn't be a problem.

I'd be very surprised given that it's completely integrated into the elctrical system.

It's also a good idea not to drive it as there have been instances of the engine running away if the sump gets too full. Nasty......

I have 18" wheels on my D2 with SLS and the ride is great at the back - much smoother than the coil springs on the front.

Mine was a 3.5i. The adjuster was under an alloy cap near where the flexible pipe from the air cleaner goes into the plenum but it was a long time ago when I did it. I had to pierce the cap & lever it out.

I changed the base idle on mine (despite lots of warnings not to) as I had similar symptoms and it was fine for several years.

Having suffered with 7 pin plugs for several years, I think it's definitely worth upgrading to 13 pin. You can get a simple plug-in converter to use with 7-pin trailers for a few quid.

5 years ago he said he'd be back in a week or so..... Hasn't been back since 2009.

Could be the relay has failed in the closed position ie with the points welded together. This happened to the SLS relay on my D2. Not sure which model you have but if the relay is the main ignition controlled one then that might well be the problem.

Could be the relay has failed in the closed position ie with the points welded together. This happened to the SLS relay on my D2. Not sure which model you have but if the relay is the main ignition controlled one then that might well be the problem.

RAVE says: In the event of a CKP sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed: l Engine cranks but fails to start. l MIL remains on at all times. l Engine misfires (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted). l Engine runs roughly or even stalls (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted). CKP does not have any backup strategy and if it fails the engine will stop running and fail to start. No mention of fuel pump although that doesn't mean anything. Is the MIL lit? IME when someone says "the ECU has failed" that usually means "I have no idea what's wrong but let's try swapping parts at random".

I've fitted LEDs from ebay (around £12 or so IIRC) and they make a huge difference. Not being a drug dealer, I don't have tinted windows.....

You need to bleed the air out. RAVE says: 1. Turn the ignition switch off and wait 15 seconds. 2. Turn the ignition switch to position II and wait 3 minutes (this ensures that the fuel system purges all the air from the fuel rail within the cylinder head). 3. Fully depress the throttle pedal. 4. Keeping the throttle pedal fully depressed, crank the engine. 5. As soon as engine speed exceeds 600 rev/min, release the throttle pedal and the ignition switch.The engine must not be cranked continuously for more than 30 seconds at any one time. 6. If the engine fails to start, repeat the above procedure.