RaDi90Hybrid

Hi Can't help that much except that if you do crack the cover I do have one here which is on e-blag at the moment. Andy

Hi If you're going to Peterborough take a look at the 'skytag' system, got one on mine from the show in Somerset. It was on a show offer which may be repeated, I got it for £99 including set up and 3 months service charge, after that it's £7:99 a month I think and you fit it yourself. Word of warning though, when I told my insurance company they charged me extra cos it's a 'modification'! Andy

Hi There is a work-around to this, if you pick up a set of pads from a Defender 110 (part no SFP000280A) and fitting kit (part no STC8575) they are fitted to the caliper with pins which go through the pads as opposed to the ones that just hold them down. You will need to drill the fixing holes on the calipers to take the pins, the pins are then go through the caliper and the pad and are held in place with split pins. These parts are avilable from http://www.lrseries.com among other places. I have this mod on mine and it works well, it was recommended to me by my local Landrover specialist. Much cheaper than replacing the calipers. HTH Andy

Hi I did a conversion about 4 years ago and the top pipe was the solid one from a 300TDi from the inlet manifold to the top of the intercooler with straight sections of intercooler tube at each end. The bottom was more difficult as you need an angle of about 170 degrees, first I had 2 90 degrees tubes with a steel joiner but they came apart every so often, I then found a perfect angle in a hose bin at on of the auto jumbles. This then went onto a solid pipe with a large bend in it, I think off the 200TDi off a Defender. I did have to 'modify' the inner wing though with BFH in order for the bend to come out of the turbo and then bend up to go onto the pipe to take it to the intercooler. HTH Andy

I was going to suggest asking HFH and IIRC I still have a copy of his advice! Seriously though the waxoyl high pressure applicator works well for me, go down to argos and get a cheap slowcooker to put the container in, its keeps the temp of the waxoyl nice and high. A word to the wise, hot waxoyl is not nice stuff, wear goggles and mind the cat!

Hi Just fitting a 'Skytag' to mine and it is easy enough to self install. Unfortunately it is the sort of thing you buy hoping you NEVER have to use it but they do monitor the unit 24/7 and if the power to the unit is cut they send a text message. www.skytag-gps.co.uk is the website and there was an offer for the bundle if you use discount code "LR10". Andy

Update I have ordered it, total of £104 inc. first 3 months but none of the insurance companies I have tried would give me any discount but I did know that before hand. That said, they did not offer any discount for ANY tracker fitted as the vehicle is not high enough value for it to be wothwhile for them. They do not seem to have enough interest in getting the scumbags off the streets permenantly for my liking. It is for my piece of mind as it was the cheapest I could find due to the offer at the show. Andy

Hi all Just come back from the LRsouthwest show and was interested in 'Skytag' (http://www.skytag-gps.co.uk). It is a vehicle tracking system which costs £249:99 which they have on offer for £99 + vat, is self installed and has a service charge of £6:99 per month. I was just wondering if anybody has one and if they have any views? Cheers Andy

The latest info is that it has been deffered to January 2012, not that this answers the original question but it does give more time to investigate. Andy

Had the same problem & went to a fastening supplier with one I stole off my mates 90, correct size is 3/8 BSF 7/8" long HTH Andy

You are supposed to re-check them after that sort of distance for that very reason. They do settle into the bevelled bits on the wheels to a certain extent. When we have to have a tyre change at work (40ft artic) the fitter does the nuts up to specified torque, goes and has a cup of tea for half an hour then re-checks them. After the run we have to go back to workshop to check once more! Dare I say we have a very good record on keeping our wheels on! (keeping all things crossed and touching wood) Andy

Agreed Paul We had a couple of mishaps at work before we moved the red pump to a different corner of the yard and providing you inform VOSA of the situation and the reasons behind it they are are usually very good about it

First Disco I had was an early 200 and it did not have ARB's, it was nasty on-road and never went off-road. I now have a 300 with ARB's and it is MUCH nicer on-road but hasn't really been off-road yet. Not much help am I? Sorry. Andy

That's what I did, mine is the Southdown towing hitch type and my reasoning behind it was the guard is ****** heavy so if I was going to remove it I did not want to have to support the tank too! HTH Andy

I agree with Mr Henson 100% Andy

BEER & IMAGINATION!!! Lots of bits of hose, heater, rad and turbo (including steel bits). Temp sender is different, if you use the Disco one it over reads, Steve Parker does one (for a price) Oil cooler pipes are a different length and thread on the Rad end but the adaptors do unscrew from the rad and can be replaced from a hydraulic supplier or similar. PAS reservoir is on the other side but I believe has the same unions as the one you have so you MAY be able to use yours. Exhaust manifold to downpipe is the expensive bit if you use Steve Parkers. Bell housing is different but fits when you tap out the holes which are already there (I think) M10 Can't think of anything else at the moment but there is bound to be something. Best mod I ever did on my 90, I then put a Disco T-box on it too. Andy

I've got a couple of 1 0spline ones in the garage if you need another one, I presume by the name you are fairly local to me (Bracknell). PM me if you need one, I am sure we can come to an arrangement. Andy

Neil, I put escort RS Turbo ones in mine, very comfy (for a 90 driving position anyway), I just bolted some steel to the runners and bolted the steel to the seatbox. Another option a friend has done is Discovery 200TDi seats, they also went in quite easily. On both of these the batteries were relocated to the back though. HTH Andy

I can't donate a guinea pig to test it, will a cat do! On the serious side, given enough time the meat should get pretty tender, the other option is to cook it before you leave and use the 'cooker' as a slow cooker to make a really nice stew for the end of the trip. Andy

10NM according to the Discovery haynes book of lies. Andy

Update Ran it up last night and then test-drove it and the pump is shows no signs of oil leakage. I did not try to 'repair' the internals of the thing, only trying to stop the leak from the end casing and it seems to have done the trick. Andy

Just wondering why you are changing the bell-housing? The Disco one should fit the gearbox OK but you will need to tap out a few of the holes at the bottom, I did when I did my 2.5NA. An intellegent person will correct me if I'm wrong I am sure. Andy

Put simply, you can drive for no longer than 4 1/2 hours before you need 45 mins of rest. You can drive for no longer than 9hrs per day (increased to 10 trice per week) There are a great deal of other regs regarding breaks, splitting breaks, daily rest etc which do get very complicated if you are not used to them. Andy

Thanks Les, might be a good one for the Land Rover Technical Archive? Andy

After an extensive search to track down the source of the oil which was being dumped on the drive under my Disco 300TDi I traced it to a leaking vacuum pump. The oil was leaking between the casing and the cover, not an uncommon problem apparently, and not wanting to part with the best part of £100 I decided to try repairing it, I had nothing to lose. The leak appears to be caused by the rivets securing the cover to the body becoming lose so the idea was to replace the rivets with nuts and bolts. The brakes on the vehicle were fine so it was only a case of re-sealing the cover. First I removed the pump from the side of the block. Clamped it in the vice (carefully as it is only cast ally) and drilled the rivets out with a 4.5mm drill bit. Once this was done I carefully removed the cover waiting to catch any bits which came flying out……… result! Nothing All that is loose is the 'o' ring. It is worth noting the shape of the 'o' ring and hence it is not worth buying an 'o' ring kit to manufacture a new one (I now know!) Next I cleaned up the surfaces and the 'o' ring carefully, refitting the 'o' ring into the groove and replacing the cover. I used M5 X 20mm bolts, washers & nyloc nuts to retain the cover, but had to grind a flat edge on the washers which went against the casing. Once complete I refitted to the vehicle.