Somethingwitty

I got a new one a couple of years back. I'd do the following: - Offer up and fit all lock, trim and other bits to ensure they all fit; drill holes etc as required, including access holes for Dinitrol 3125 or waxoil etc, ensuring you chamfer / round off any resulting sharp edges so the paint thickness is not reduced on application. Remove all bits and degrease. - Rub down the black primer, paying particular attention to the areas where the ally skin folds over the steel frame - time spent providing a good key here will pay great dividends, ditto the door handle recess (no need to remove black primer as such). Degrease. - Etch prime (UPOL 2K etch from Halfauds or similar)at least two coats - top coat. If you spray then make bloody sure the door handle recess is well attended to - even better if finish not too important then brush it. I didn't and concequently the pait was v thin and its now rusting (lock off shortly to re-finish, likewise an area I missed whilst sanding has lost a bit of paint) Around the frames inside is also difficult but at least it should remain dry there. - inject pre-heated cavity wax / dinitrol into all box sections through your holes, turn the door through all angles to ensure the stuff runs into all internal recesses. ensure all internal frames are similarly coated. I use Dinitrol 3125 and spray it over everything - including the outside! I then wipe down the exposed areas to leave a film wich then goes off - outside it attracts grime that tends to help to protect the door. I then use Dinitrol 4192 (or whatever their external stuff is) and force it into all crevices and cracks, particularly where the skin folds meet a corner there is a small gap through which you can inject the stuff such that it fills the cavities between skin and frame. I'll then 'butter up' the skin/frame joins for good measure. Overall do the above on a warm day when humidity is low and preferably get the door in the sun between stages (but don't lie on the grass as it will produce moisture). Be religeous about putting the door down on a wooden block rather than resting the edge on the ground and abrading your paint! Give it a decent amount of time for the paint to go off before fitting. Use a water trap if spraying; brushing has much to commend for the ability to force paint into areas otherwise missed. On assembly use a gasket between hinges and door skin - this is a frequent source of corrosion; I use old bike inner tubes cut to just oversize. Assemble all bolts and self tappers using Duralac - a corrosion inhibitor used on aircraft. Consider using stainless bolts too. Ultimately the cure to dissimilar metal corrosion is to keep the metals separated and deny access to any form of dielectric, such as salt laden moisture. Properly adhered paint protected from damage where required (gaskets of rubber) is the best approach. Duralac is your friend where metal-metal contact is otherwise unavoidable or rubber thickness unacceptable. You could try peeling back the skins to treat underneath but I'd leave well alone, theres only so much you can do and you'd likely bugger them up.

'Nine out of ten men who tried Camels prefered women.' ...mate's tobacco advertising t-shirt (under school shirt) on fairly clear display as headmaster shows prospective parents around I can see some attraction to genuine camel vehs, none to a look-alike for the sake of it and still less to pay a shed load of cash in excess of what it is worth for it's material state... but each to their own - Good luck in the hunt!

Concur with Disco Ron - big or little end on #3 has failed and allowed the piston to contact the head - the proof from the phot is the silver 'wiggley worm' mark on the piston crown opposite the camshaft is nigh on identical to that on the head in the same location. There is no way the piston could hit the head without either of those bearings failing (or crankshaft failure... I know of one two cylinder 2.5D - the other 2 were driving the water pump!). I would guess the head is also scrap or at least needs some careful blending of the damage? I'd be surprised if a re-bore was not required given the damage as shown. Engine mechanics aren't my forte but the above seems logical... Good luck Jim

Drop arm - get an oppo to rock the steering whilst you're underneath - you will either see or feel lost movement by hand on the drop arm - or indeed on the wheel end of the drag link or the track rods. Rotating the drag link / damper about the Drop arm ball joint is normaly fairly easy and no real indicator of wear. Whilst the above rocking is ongoing also look at the panhard rod bushes - lose panhard rod bolts or bushes will not assist... However, your 'death wobble' may well be caused by out of balance wheels and/or poor (ie too little) swivel pre-load. There should be something on here about adjusting / checking the pre load; if you go too tight then the pre-load will exceed the force generated by the castor angle and thus the steering will fail to self-centre. Regards, Jim

I conceed that I am fortunate and, although no millionaire, I can afford to buy OEM / Genuine where it counts. However, I would strongly advise those tempted by B******* to look at what they expect - if it is hydraulic I will nigh on bet a weeks wages that it will fail in very short order (even a year is too soon and many of these go in weeks!). There are many other components and classes of components (for example those machined to close tolerances - eg swivel pins) which routinely fail the satisfaction test - that is you fitting them, without any 'modification' and them working 'as advertised.' In the swivel pin example there is NO excuse for a pin to be machined out of tolerance, too large a diameter to fit - just indicative of poor/non-existant quality control. Buying cheap for such components is seriously false economy (particularly if you pay someone to fit it for you). You need money to save money - but if you can possibly afford the Lucas / Lockheed /Delphi / Girling OEM route etc then steer well clear of the 'Quality' parts - 90 % of those I've encountered are abysmal and short lived (the Td5 speedo transducer is another that springs to mind). Good luck with fixing it, some sound advise from those before me.

Had a RR into work once, poor handling (forget the exact symptoms, pulling to one side probably) plenty of head scratching until with it on the ramp it became evident that on one side the rear radius arm chassis bush was mounted as advertised (aft of chassis bracket) but the other it was mounted FORWARD! I'm sure this isn't the case here but then I bet the bloke who did the RR never intended doing it that way either! Jim

If you do replace springs (and mine were of similar age) then my recomendation is for Genuine - mine certainly made a difference but also a mate of mine who works on the things daily says he finds none of the aftermarket ones seem to last a sensible period of time. Subject to the Boge strut being tits I'd go with Western's advise and bin it, substituting a pair of standard 110 rears. Jim

Derek, No problem, glad to be of help. As it happens your pdf is similar but not quite the same! (mines from a later parts book by looking at the style) The setup is identical, however for all of my drawing part numbers you need to subtract '1' - ie the channel I describe as part 3 is, on your pdf, part 2 - odd but there we go! It's worth considering what needs sealing with silicon and what does not (its arrse getting a wet knee two days later!), also avoid applying too much else it makes it a bugger to pull apart in the future! Good luck! Jim

I've rebuilt these a couple of times, though not for a while so a little rusty! It is a bit of a fiddle but it CAN be done without mauling the frames / cutting holes etc. Study the attached PDF and note that the inner lower face and lower rails that the windows slide on are all one piece! (I missed this on first attempt, prying bits from other bits they are part of doesnt work..) - IIRC you can do this on the veh, however if top removed then the glass cant drop out on the deck so I remove my tops first. - Drill out the 4x pop rivets holding the latch mechanism and fiddle / withdraw the latch. - Drill out the pop rivet at either end of the channel (part 3, rivets part 4) - Remove the self tappers that retain the lower channel (part 3) to the main frame - Remove the lower channel from main frame (may need judicious use of pry bars) and the windows will come with it (attached on rails that then slide off) Really that's the difficult part done. In terms of assembly I suggest using the felt supplied by LR (its only a couple of quid and is the right stuff!) I also strongly recommend replacing the small white plastic runner blocks retained on the base of the window runners (highlighted, part 8, MTC6221) since the wearing out of these causes the windows to stick and gall the runners; again, genuine runner blocks cost fcuk all and it's an arrse to strip down - get genuine, not some Britpart bit. Make sure you spend time to correctly and squarely install the felt - to avoid it rucking up. Did I say the difficult part was done? Erm... reassembly is really the reverse of removal, but is a fiddle again. Jim EDIT: Helpfuly I am foiled in attaching the pictures! Anyone able to suggest how pse let me know and will post.

Get some thick steel plate, drill a centre hole and 3 holes for the M5 bolts and then use a suitably large bolt and nut to draw it all off - protecting the crank nose with a sacrificial bit of plate - I made a puller for mine, took a long time too since I pinched the steel from work and forgot it's origin - Rolled Homogeneous Armour - unsurprisingly pretty bloody hard! Wasn't pretty but worked, anything else is less than certain and may damage something expensive.

At 15 years old I'd be replacing those hoses, regardless of whether I thought that was the snag (and it wont help as they do get tired) - I'm not one for religious adherence to changing things at the recommended millage and nor do I change pads at 6mm like I've seen someone suggest! However, 15 years is pushing it - change them, they aren't expensive! As regards bleeding I've often found a re-bleed assists, pressure bleeding helps too - I'd certainly give it another go. It may be that one of the pistons is partially seized too. In the past I've been known to roughen pads (WET to avoid brake dust inhalation). Bit of a dodge and not going to fix it long term but can buy you time / mobility to fix in the days after... A mate of mine lost a brake hose on his car pulling out of the drive... night before we had been in convoy from France - ie a lot of 80mph - consider the impact of a brake failure and change those hoses! Jim

Sorry to say I've had bad experience of a place beginning with A and their customer service was cr&p subsequently. When the main box went (again) about 18 months later I sent it to a local place and its been spot on ever since. Every place will have it's problems once in a while but it took several iterations to get a box that didn't have the original snag AND worked as advertised. R380 rebuild is not something to take lightly - several special tools required.

Ratcheting spanners v useful, although I've only got 13 and 17. 10mm prob also worth it although really a normal combination spanner and ratchet / sockets are fine. If you've not got a 1/4 inch ratchet and sockets I'd get one - cheap and much easier and less tiring to wield than a 1/2 inch or even a 3/8 - clearly don't lean on it but I use mine almost exclusively now for anything 13mm and less (use a spanner to loosen initially. WRT to corrosion, get yourself some DURALAC - its a very yellowy green about 6 quid a tin and you coat bolts, joining surfaces, washers etc with it - prevents electrolytic corrosion between dissimilar metals (ali/steel!) and is widely used on aircraft. Really good stuff - google 'Elise Parts' or similar.

Ah! I'm on Wolf rims (6.5 inch) so unable to go as high a px as would like as it balloons the tread a bit. To all those that contributed their thoughts, thank you and I'm sorry its taken a while to get back to you... However, I believe I have found the snag (s): Dampers - some improvement after changing Drag link & drop arm B/J - further improvement but again, not the cure. A-Frame ball joint - well worn so replaced today - significant improvement but still experienced some rear axle steer. A-Frame - chassis bushes - Bolts loose and bush worn on one side, changed both and abused new bolts with the air gun - RESULT!!!! Still TBC as only short test drive but major improvement So in summary - Initial symptoms only shown by tyre change; slow to turn in then tightening turn with your arrse suddenly accelerated sideways at same time, together with wandering and jumpiness all essentially cured by TLC of the A-frame. Thanks again, Jim

2.5 NA / 1.667 110 - used to get 70 mph on Motorway, up to 75mph down hill and achieved 80+ with following gale and precipitous drop! It revved well, pulled surprisingly well and consumed / ejected around a pint every 250 miles! Main mod was to cable tie the breather cap down. Same veh 300 Tdi / 1.410 - achieves 70 mph cruise easily, 75 mostly and often 80+ with forays to 90mph achievable and even 100 (with the aforementioned following gale and race track m'lord) I'd say that yours is a little slow, even if it is 1.667 however it may be your ears and nerves - mine was a pig initially - they handle surprisingly well if bushes / ball joints / dampers etc in good nick - if in rag order you will most likely soil yourself before attaining a decent speed. Also worth pointing out that a long run at speed seems to benefit both N/A and TDi with an noticeable (if incremental) improvement in speed. Is it reaching temperature ok - ie thermostat isn't stuck open (should barely be able to grip top-hose) if not you will be losing a lot of power in frictional losses and into the block - cold performance is abysmal. You should be aware (if not surprised) to learn that the N/A dropped a hot spot six months after I flogged it!

Are your shafts the same length from 200 tdi flange back to diff end? Can't see any problems except the possibility that they are not fully engaged in the diff... although I guess 200 flanges don't fit 300 shafts?

I'll second this - brackets are only £15 genuine a side, forget callipers but use the 110 ones as discussed. I have kept my original stubs and half shafts and thus used EARLY 110 front hubs (to retain the wide bearing spaceing). Spacers I made from 2 x 3mm chassis plate by hand - bit of hard work but not too long. Ensure you dress the edges well so they sit flat on one another. Works a treat. I see no reason, unless your existing shafts, stubs etc are tired, to replace that lot, it works, leave it be. (also I think the earlier wide spaced bearings and deeper drive member splines can only be a good thing)

Marco, If thats the rear bearing shown on the LH photo then it looks on cursory inspection as though it has been spining on the shaft - if true then it may have worn the shaft too much ie the new bearing will be immediately prone to the same fate. Of course, it won't fall apart immediately but the long term prospects may not be good. The amount of play in the video is phenomenal and FAR too much. Were there ANY shims used there?! That appears to be substantialy more than 'normal wear.' I am sorry to say that I am not surprised - mine had a 'recon' (guess who?!) which failed entirely to fix the fault that was described in the first instance. Another attempt gave me a box which I could only drive in Low - removed sump plate to find the High o/p dog teeth were totaly the wrong form for the selector ring - ie it was PHYSICALY IMPOSSIBLE to select High! Happily I had already fitted the bloody thing (theres a lesson there - never assume, check - before fitting). 'Recon' as I discovered to my cost means replacing bearings and seals with the cheapest possible and sending it back out without either fixing a known fault or indeed testing the thing to ensure all gears are selectable. If you think for one moment anything else is changed then think again. Fitting it yourself will also mean you have no means of being compensated for your time should it prove to not work - they will not recognise your efforts or pay a nominal compensation even if it is their fault, except if they are paying a garage. Funnily enough the main box done at the same time by same place failed after only 2 years / 20,000 miles IIRC - fifth gear gone, reconditioners (different place) were surprised at the wear on the syncros too, given its recent recon. J

Beware the German habit of using Brown wire as Earth!!!! This caught me out once and I blew an old Eberspacher control unit. I think they used Red for +12v - its worth being V careful when wiring up - I would revert to LR (British) colour codes to save confusion in the future. I have some info but its on a different machine, will fwd if I get my hands on it soon enough. Jim

Re aluminium to steel joints (including washers / bolts etc) have you heard of Duralac? Many haven't but its used extensivley on aircraft and stops electrolytic corrosion between disimilar metals - I now stick it between everything and use it on bolts. £6 for a small tin, from www.eliseparts.co.uk (or similarly named place) also do tubes. The stuff tends to skin a bit readily in the tin so I might go for the tubes next time. White spirit based, yellowy green, brushes on (or use a screwdriver to spread about a bit). I would always paint ally where possible, and I use UPOL etch primer, expensive but good and convenient.

The consensus is with you - glad to hear your tyres are fine! 2.5 bar.. 37Psi? What width rims are you on?

None that I've found - and from past experience play means lost movement but when in a turn the castoring action keeps that backlash taken up as the wheels try to centre the steering against your input... although I did have a track issue many years ago, a little too much toe out (20 degrees I guess with a bannana track rod) masked by icy roads. In the afternoon after the ice melted it developed a deep love for hedges when steered off centre! In the current problem there is no feedback through the steering suggesting a change in steering angle from that demanded - but also going to re-check.

Hmmm... interesting! The (THE? ...one of the!) theory I am now working with is exactly that - I've put 50 psi in the fronts and 60 in the rears! That has barely changed the response and for me that's got to mean the sidewalls are not an issue. There was a bit of a clunk from the back end throwing it into a RH turn at a roundabout... although symptoms are really there without clunks and so bushes are more likely. A-frame might have issues(although again, ball joint is only a couple of years old, no obvious clunk on taking up drive and the bushes have very little room for play even if shagged) Anyway, I am going out to double check the back end.

Steve, Thanks, I am hoping this is the case. Bushes are all relatively new (in the last year) and all genuine LR (got sick of the pattern rubbish) and look ok - however I will re-check. I had standard LR dampers before my first PCs and the change on fitting PC was enormous - much better (of course probably due to the old LR ones being shagged out!) What is it about Pro Comp ones (accept they are pretty cheap!) that makes them worse than standard LR dampers? Was hoping to leave the springs until the enevitable re-chassis in a couple of years but think I may well replace them. Its worth pointing out that there is no anti roll bar fitted, however thats always been the case. Drag link is awaiting part and time and to be done in the next week or so but play is small... much less than what a mate of mine found on a customer's discovery that was 'a little vague' - he LIFTED the rod free of the ball... Scary!

Having just done mine I went thru the engine bay, removed the dust covers on wheel arch above the turrets and unbolted shock from axle and unbolted turret from chassis, lifted clear and removed shock from turret - probably easier than removing springs etc (certainly if no ready access to large axle stands etc) I'd be inclined to replace them as soon as cash allows, they can't be far from death and if it lets go suddenly at the wrong moment it might be expensive!