Troll Hunter

Agree, if you can do it. It's very difficult to mount a circular fan body to a rectangular radiator matrix unless the circular fan body is larger than the radiator. Be interesting to try on a Defender radiator without modifying the bonnet. My point is that whatever dimensions and fittings, you have to minimise radiator by-passing and fan recirculation. Mike

Thanks, Bowie69. All I've got to then is find a couple of fat friends. That shouldn't be too difficult! Mike

My 1991 110CSW has the Boge kit and as far as I know it is still working. When my rebuild is finished I'll have to try to assess its effectiveness, but I'm not sure how! Mike

Even going electric you still need to have a cowl, or some sort of ducting to ensure that air is not by-passing the radiator. My main fan is sealed to the radiator core with draught excluder self-adhesive tape. Similarly for the two small fans, which are both pushers. If the fans are not sealed the air flow will dissipate and go around the radiator, or even just return to the fan inlet. Neither option helps your cooling. Mike

Paime, all you need is a large capacity set of circlip piers. You don't need any other special tools. I have the necessary pliers, and I removed my rotating assembly and cleaned the exhaust side very carefully with an old toothbrush and a mixture of acetone and xylene, both of which, fortunately, are readily available over here. The intake air side didn't really need any cleaning. I measured my radial axial play with a DRO instrument and decided that it was still within acceptable limits, and just reassembled it. Of course, I still haven't finished my rebuild, so I don't know if my cleaning was effective, efficient, or damaging! I'll post when I get my hobby back on the road. Mike

I've reallocated my now redundant A/C condenser fans as follows. Both are "pusher" fans. One is dedicated full time to cooling the intercooler. This is powered only when ignition is ON. Although this might seem unnecessary, if you are in low gear/slow speed for a considerable time, perhaps even winching, there is virtually no air thrust through the radiator and intercooler. so this is a benefit. The other is a first-on radiator cooler, switched by coolant temperature, followed at a higher coolant temperature by a major electric fan. This larger fan is a "puller" fan. These two fans are powered by an "Always ON" power supply from the starter, since on engine shut down the residual block heat can give high coolant temperatures, if engine shutdown occurs before a period of cooling the engine down at relatively low RPM. These fans could be protected from a faulty long run time by an in-line timer switch/relay. I'm making custom ducting so that both fan set-ups have custom ducting to concentrate air flow through the relevant cooling cores. Mike

Hi, Peaklander, I feel that questions not directly related to Land Rovers are perfectly acceptable providing the question relates to a problem that could affect a Land Rover. This has been a great learning experience for me, and I'm sure for many others, both to the cause and the detective process of finding the guilty party. Congratulations and well done for persevering and not succumbing to "professionals" temptations to empty your wallet. Mike

I've now found the resistance, exactly as you described, western, thank you and I can confirm that the wire colours are as shown in the LR wiring diagram, and the second diode that I mentioned previously is in the wire to the alternator, downstream of the resistance. Mike

Well done. You must feel very satisfied, and you deserve it after so much frustration and hard work, Mike

Many thanks for that link, western. Now I'm a little bit better informed. Mike

Thanks, western, for confirming that the the second diode I've found is in the charging circuit. I wish that the LR technical writers would provide this sort of detail in the wiring diagrams. So, what is the purpose of the "Ignition light resistor" which appears to be in parallel with the "Charge warning light"? Does anybody know? Mike

The E mark number only indicates which member country approved the item. Approval then applies throughout the EU, not just in the approving country. Of course, attention must still be paid to the various requirements of left and right hand drive vehicles. Mike

I still haven't had an answer, as far as I can tell, as to the method used to extinguish the charge warning light when it receives adequate voltage from the alternator. On the wiring diagram in the LR manual the only indication of something is the "Ignition light resistor" which appears to be in parallel with the "Charge warning light". How does this bit of the charging circuit work, please, and where should I look for it? I've found what I think is a second diode in my wiring loom, the first one being associated with the HRW. Is this diode in the charging circuit? Many thanks for any lessons delivered. Mike

Unless I've got it all wrong, experiences reported on the forum seem to show that the FIP will suck fuel from the tank even if the lift pump is U/S. If this is the case, it doesn't seem to matter what the lift pump discharge pressure is, as long as it is positive. Mike

VSS voltage sensitive switch - Yes HRW heated rear window - Yes NC no charge - Normally Closed Many thanks for your thoughts and comments. It seems that I'm not totally out to lunch. I was hoping to gain simplicity and perhaps better reliability. Looking through the various threads about VSS on this forum, from 2008 through to 2018, it appears that they are not all that reliable, possibly needing some internal adjustment/calibration, and they are very expensive to replace. A simple relay is cheap and can be replaced without selling body parts. I agree that I could also use the oil pressure warning light as an initiator. ATM I'm considering using that to link to the FIP shut-off solenoid so that the engine will crank and build oil pressure before fuel is admitted, and it fires. I tested this set-up manually before I started my renovation project and it seemed to work well. It does need a well charged battery though. I'd be interested in other peeps thoughts on this. Mike

Now I need some tuition, please. I've been studying the operation and wiring of the VSS (or VSR) connected to the HRW circuit. I'm no lecky, by any means, but I'm wondering how the alternator warning light works. The light goes off when the alternator charges the battery. Couldn't this circuit be used the same way as the VSS, but with a Normally Closed relay in it in series with the warning lamp? When the alternator is charging the warning light goes out and the NC relay makes contact, thus allowing the HRW to be heated, via of course, another relay. There, I've just proved I'm no lecky! So put me right, tell me where my thinking is way off, please. Mike

As above, and report as Phishing or Scam and block the sender, if you can. Mike

Having had multiple lift pump failures, including one brand new BP one, never fitted, and one Delphi model after just a few months, I have now permanently installed an electric lift pump on my 300Tdi. Mike

To add insult to injury, they are advertised for Land Rover Defenders, but the seller couldn't even bother to show them on a Defender. He used a couple of Jeeps. Mike

Many thanks for your encouragement, Adam001. I certainly don't have the skills or experience, but I do have the enthusiasm and time to try and do it right, perhaps not always the first time! I'm gaining many good tips from Monkie's build thread, but still finding tripwires (!) and am very much feeling my way. Mike

I don't know what your point is, or what you are trying to show in your last two photos. Some text would help 'cos "M16" doesn't tell me much. Mike

I like it, but at over GBP100 by the time I get it (shipping and customs), it's out of my league. I'll keep using spanners for the time being. Mike

...... and cash! Mike

Oh yes, where? If you want anything not made out of Chinesium and capable of setting stainless steel M10 rivnuts, you have to spend serious beer tokens. I bent the 20" handles on my Chinesium one when I tried to set only an M8 rivnut, although advertised for "up to M12" and I now faff around with spanners and get the job done. Mike

It's a 1991 110CSW originally V8but now 300Tdi. Having stripped it down, galvanised the chassis, bulkhead and lots of smaller bits, I'm now trying to do a rewire job as I rebuild the bodywork. Looking at the original loom it looks very much as if LR used a common loom for whatever vehicle they were building and just ignored the wires they didn't need for that model. All over the original loom there are wires with terminals that never connected to anything just taped into the loom. My immediate problem is the row of relays beneath the fuses in the fuse panel below the dash. Excluding the indicator relay and the intermittent wiper relay, in my installation there are eight relays, the two on the left have green bodies, and the remainder all have yellow bodies. I don't think the colour affects the electrical properties! The loom itself is so complex and cumbersome, although I've stripped nearly all of the binding tape off, it's almost impossible to follow individual wires back to the relays, so can anybody tell me what each of these eight relays serves, please? I'm very inclined to just dump the entire loom, save the fuse panel and relays, and start totally from scratch. I'll certainly be using some decent connectors on the new loom, and I'll include only a couple of spare conductors for future use. I've been avidly following Monkie's thread "Making my own main loom/harness" and have picked up many good points there, but no identification of these relays. Many thanks, in advance, to anyone who can identify these relays. Mike