Troll Hunter

Here's a 90 defender that doesn't seem to be priced out of this world: https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/auctions/1990-land-rover-defender-knrNpn Mike

Agree with Glue. The difference between an M10 and M16 is just about the 1/4 inch that the plate has dropped. If they are M10, how have they been secured? Has the importer bodged nuts or a nut plate inside, or even welded them in? Best of luck, and let us know what you find. Mike

Beware of Project creep! If you get sucked in you'll never get it back on the road and your wallet will be screaming! Mike

Fair comment. It's just that I took mine out all in one and found it fairly easy. I didn't separate them because I had no intention of doing so, having fitted a new clutch etc six months previously. Mike

^^^^ added to poor steel quality a high torque impact gun can quickly impart serious damage. How do I know ....... Mike

Welcome to a great forum. Masses of good technical advice and relatively little BS. "getting too old for this sh##". What do you mean? You're still vertical most days, aren't you? Half this forum membership seems to be well into penshionable age, so just keep on with the sh##. It's a Land Rover after all, so what do you expect? Mike

A good job well done, but I can't understand why you didn't take the engine, gearbox and t-box out all in one through the front, as EeEk suggested. Mike

In case you're struggling, I've found the easiest way to get "the silver lining thing" out is to thread a hacksaw blade through it and to cut through it, being careful not to cut into the parent metal. Then use a sharp chisel, or even a screwdriver to prise "the silver lining thing" away from the parent metal, to which it will be virtually welded with rust. A quick clean up with some emery cloth and you can fit the new bits. Some grease may help. Best of luck with it, although you shouldn't need much luck since it's a fairly straight forward operation. Mike

Sorry, I don't know why that link didn't work, but sgo70 has already posted the same data. Mike

pete3000, you're forgetting the essential oweeeeey of skinned knuckles and accompanying swear words. Nothing with a 30mm nut moves without them! Best of luck with it, Chambo110. Mike

To complement ballcock's link I found this on the web, but can't remember where, a while ago. I now use it as a very good guide for cable selection since I'm making my own complete wiring looms for my 110 CSW. AUTOMOTIVE WIRE AMPERAGE CAPACITY CHART.doc Mike

sgo70, I'm about to start making my own looms for total wiring replacement on my 110 CSW, so I have been following this thread closely. I am currently struggling to find suitable, accessible locations for auxiliary fuse and relay panels. Please, what locations have you selected for your 30 relays and just under 50 fuses? Mike

Where is the raised air intake that TopGear mention? Some pikey nicked it already? Mike

I'm not sure that the order of uploading gives the correct order of viewing. For example, "Wheel Motion Kinematics - Part 1" was uploaded a month ago, and other uploads have occurred since then, but there is no sign of "Wheel Motion Kinematics - Part 2". Mike

I just wish Ianto would number his vids so that they cann be viewed in the correct order. I hope this sentiment reaches him, because I refuse to supply Gogle with yet more personal details for them to monetise! Mike

My shop floor was "over engineered" with a full area mesh of 10mm rebar on "I can't remember the mesh", but it was a 4" concrete layer. The installed slope was 1%. Today I only want my truck in the shop, but tomorrow .......? Hence my decision for what I have. If you can, go bigger, go wider, go longer, go deeper. Then, you can concentrate on getting more "stuff" (man toys) to fill the space! Mike

I'd also recommend the use of a balancing bar between the engine crane and the engine. This allows you to adjust the engine lifting angle, and is especially useful when refitting the engine. Mike

Thanks, western. Mike

This thread OP was on MLS gasket failure, and it's morphed into a thread on multi-tank and multi-fuel options. I don't want to be a kill-joy, but, please, let's stay on topic or/and start a new thread. Moderators, it's up to you. Mike

Easy-peasy, just open a brake bleed nipple. End of braked wheels and very towable. Mike

Unfortunately very true. The advantages of owning a Defender in Canada is that there are so few of them that a new/old one on the block would soon be noticed. Also, there's virtually no high demand for bling body panels, so little incentive for thieving pikeys. Mike

Where is it going, if not into the coolant? You said that you had taken the temperature of the actual engine block as about 60 Deg. C. If the heat isn't going into the coolant just about the only other places are the exhaust, so your manifold and pipe should be glowing, or into the engine oil, and I'd expect that to be seriously degraded in double quick time. Have you taken the temperature of the sump pan after a hard drive? If that is normal temperature you've discovered how to destroy energy, and should be in line for a Nobel prize! Alternatively, you may have a super, and I mean SUPER, efficient engine that uses hardly any fuel. What sort of MPG do you get? Mike

OK, that would be a bummer if you're trying to tow it! Mike

I may be missing something, but, as far as I understand, the problem is that the engine and coolant are not getting hot enough. It seems that the possible causes so far suggested would be aimed at addressing over-heating, eg no circulation, pump ineffectual, air lock. What causes lack of heat? It seems that the thermostats that have been tried are functioning correctly, so what else is there? If fuel is being burned, and there is no mention of a lack of performance, where is the generated heat being dissipated? tomw92, I'm also at a loss. Mike

Locking gear and transfer box levers together doesn't provide protection against disconnecting both drive shafts and towing the prize away. Even easier with a front wheel dolly. Mike