Troll Hunter

That's why I adopted the name Troll Hunter, nothing to do with the internet variety. Mine's also an Alpine White 110 CSW. Mike

Many thanks, Snagger, for the link to Britannica Restorations, some brilliant vids there, including the ones specifically refitting alpine windows. I tried making my own insertion tool but didn't have appropriately stiff wire of a suitable diameter. I ended up buying a commercial tool, for far too many pennies, so will try again today. Many thanks, again, for all the advice I've received, not just on this topic, but on all the other questions I've raised over the year. It's this selfless sharing of information and experiences between members that makes this such a great forum. Many thanks also to the Admin Team for keeping it so, and I wish all members a happy and safe Christmas and New Year. Mike

Yes, thank you, western, it should be STC1482. Damned finger trouble again! And my 110 CSW was originally a V8, hence the sender variant. Do you recommend that I change to PRC8463, particularly if I need to renew the sender? ianmayco68, there isn't any resistance shown on the LR wiring diagram, and there was none when I stripped the wiring. Pete3000, many thanks for the resistance readings on your sender and for the wiring details, and yes, I was on the 200 ohm range. It appears that, yet again, I'm suffering from Blue Box disease. Unfortunately, because of my location, it costs more to return faulty items than to just suck it up😠. I'll just end up buying yet another sender, and this time will fork out for a genuine product (ouch!). Mike

Having just scrolled down to your other post specifically about your LED bling, I'm glad you have the option of red, as well as many other bells and whistles. It just shows that if you are prepared to invest the money you can get all the bling you need! Mike

I have recently removed the steering column from my 1991 110 CSW, which was originally a Middle East spec, whatever that was, and it did not have shear bolts. As far as I know the steering column/ignition switch has never been worked on previously, and I have owned the vehicle since 1995. Mike

If you want coloured bling why choose blue? If you had red it wouldn't destroy your night vision when you turn them on. Mike

Thank you, all, very much, for the advice. I was obviously getting it all so wrong 😖! The upside is that I don't feel so bad at failing😀! First job appears to be to make/buy a suitable tool. I do have a heated shop to work in but a pre-soak in really hot water will also figure in my preps. I might as well try to do it in the correct sequence, so do I put the new rubber seal on the glass before trying to get the seal onto the roof metal, or do I start with the seal on the metal and then insert the glass? Or is there another way, apart from taking it all to a professional? Mike

Hi, All, This week obviously isn't my week. I've had fuel tank level problems for a long time, relying on my trip meter reading to refuel. In my rebuild I decided to tackle them. I initially suspected the tank sender unit, so I bought a new one, STC1492, since it was originally a petrol V8 although now a 300Tdi. This is the sender that fits in the left hand side of the tank, with the three vertical electrical connections, the top one for the tank contents gauge indication, the middle one to earth, and the bottom one to the low fuel warning light. I think I've got that right! Still the same problem, so it must be the gauge. Bought a new gauge, PRC7313, again still the same problem. So yesterday I spent several hours with a bench set-up of a 12 volt battery, the two senders, the two gauges, and a multi-meter. Both sender units behaved the same: holding the float arm up to simulate a full fuel tank the resistance across the sender was ~ 0.4 ohms. At the low tank level the resistance was ~0.8 ohms. On both units the low level warning circuit only came on at a very low tank level, quite correctly, and the resistance was ~0.4 ohms. Raising the float arm and the circuit went open. The resistance over each of the gauges was also <1 ohm. When I powered the circuit, on both senders the float position had no impact on the gauge reading - both gauges read Full at all float positions! So, where is my problem? Do I have a problem, other than suffering from Blue Box disease? What resistances should I expect over these senders? Should I be buying LR original items? Please help a guy with no hair to pull out! Many thanks in advance, and all advice will be very much appreciated. Mike

As in the subject line, and a couple of questions, it's a 1991 110 CSW: 1. The LR 1987 110 parts catalogue seems to show the filler strip goes on the outside of the glass. Similarly for the two rear end windows. For the windshield the filler strip is not shown, but Youtube vids I've watched of windshield refitting always show the filler strip to be on the inside. Where should it be fitted, please? 2. After a total strip down I am now on the rebuild phase. I refitted the two rear end windows with the filler strip on the outside, following the LR parts book diagram, and I've struggled all afternoon trying to reinstall an alpine window, you know, the curved ones in the sides of the roof. My problem has been in getting the filler strip in. I've got a new rubber surround fitted and it went in just about OK using the string method and a lot of washing-up liquid, but for the life of me I cannot get the filler strip, also new, into the groove. I'm fitting this with the filler strip on the inside. It seemed absolutely impossible with the filler strip on the outside, as shown in the LR manual. I've succeeded along the bottom, but cannot get around the 180 deg curves at the ends. I know other forum members have done this, so what is the secret? Should I be getting/making a special tool? I've run out of swear words, have no hair to pull out, and implications to higher powers have been unanswered, so I'm at a total loss. All and any thoughts and advice will be very gratefully received. I'm getting desperate and considering buying a canvas and stick set! Mike

.............. or hours, or even days! Don't forget that both Murphy and his assistant Sod, two legal eagles, have a deep interest in your operations! I wish you every success and will be following this thread closely. Mike

You might be pleasantly surprised how many companies are looking for a "grey beard" who has been around the block a few times and knows what's what. You have my very best wishes. Mike

Just found the details of where I ordered my EGT kit, but it was in 2009, so people/businesses may have changed. Steve Wilson, Product Management Tel: +44 (0) 121 326 1271Fax: +44 (0) 121 326 1297Mobile: +44 (0) 7768 934041E-mail: steve.wilson@continental-corporation.com Best of luck, Mike

Some years ago, while still living in UK, I fitted a VDO EGT gauge and I believe the part number was 310 153, and a matching VDO sender. This was a K type thermocouple. Can't remember who supplied it, but I don't think it came from Oz, but it may have come from US. Mike

When your tank is on a low level, drain it into buckets, replace the drain plug, and then start returning fuel to the tank. Measure how much fuel you add and note critical items on the gauge, like when it starts to show a level, when the low level light goes out, etc. Then you've got a fairly good idea of how much fuel you have left when you get low. Measuring mileage is fine in most circumstances, and I did this for many thousands of km. after my fuel gauge packed up, until one day I got caught out. I could normally do 500 - 550 km before I would refuel, filling up each time and resetting the trip meter, but the time I was caught out was in fairly extreme weather conditions. It was raining very hard, so a lot of water on the highway, and I was traveling into a very strong headwind and trying to keep up with the traffic at about 100 - 110kph (60 - 65mph). I ran out of fuel at just over 450km. So, be aware of the conditions because your mileage endurance can be very significantly reduced. Once you have calibrated your fuel gauge you don't have this problem. Mike

Yes, WD40 is a moisture dispersant primarily for use on electrical circuits, not for freeing seized threads. It happens to have relatively god penetrative properties, but there are much better alternatives. I use a home made 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Very effective. Remember to shake it up each time before you use it since it separates into two phases. Mike

What axle?

That sounds like a magic wand, snake oil to me. It probably cures piston slap, cracked rings, and all sorts of other problems!!! I think that this might be a little over-weight for what is required. Mike

That sounds like a magic wand, snake oil to me. It probably cures piston slap, cracked rings, and all sorts of other problems!!! Mike

It's a good job you're doing on the manifold, but just think where all that mess came from. Basically it has come from either the oil feed to the turbo itself, or, more likely, from the rocker cover via the little plastic cyclone in the breather line. Oil from here is supposed to return to the sump and the vapours go into the air inlet line to the turbo, but the vapour/liquid separation isn't all that effective and some oil gets carried forward to the turbo. The turbo discharges to the intercooler, where more liquid oil is deposited and then to the inlet manifold, where it can also make a mess, as you have found. I have just completed cleaning my 300Tdi intercooler, and it was mega filthy. First I soaked it overnight in my parts cleaner, which contains a mixture of proprietary parts cleaner solution and regular diesel. I then spent a good hour or so part filling the i/c and swishing cleaning solution from end to end through the finned tubes, totally emptying the i/c every minute or so. Eventually the emptied solution started to look about the same as the inlet solution. Of course, the carp in the intercooler isn't your regular engine oil. The oil deposited there has been stripped of all its lighter ends and baked on more or less as soot, probably causing a significant reduction in i/c efficiency. I finished with a thorough wash in hot water and dishwashing detergent since I didn't want any residual cleaning solution to cause fueling of my engine. So, perhaps a peak at your i/c should now be on your "to do" list. Mike

Good job that I'm not a chemistry teacher! Mike

Sorry, but I think that you may regret following that procedure. Adding oxalic acid crystals into your radiator, already filled with water, will result in a VERY concentrated solution locally, and it could cause problems. I think you'll be far safer by filling the cooling system with cold water and then draining a couple of litres out into a plastic bucket. Dissolve the acid crystals in the water drained and slowly add this into the header tank just after you have started the engine from cold. This will ensure that the acid is well distributed and you'll quickly have a full cooling system and can then make the drive recommended above. Mike

Hi, Simon, It sure is "fun"! Thinking at the time of dis-assembly that I was doing a real good job of photoing, labeling, bagging and writing notes, and of course, suffering from "I know where that goes" and "I won't forget that." I find that I'm very often scratching the bald spot trying to figure out what goes where. Most of the mechanical bits are back together, so I'm about to start on the next pit of serpents - the electrics. Thank goodness for a forum like this, 'cos no doubt I'll be calling on the bigger brain of the forum for some clarifications and help during that phase of the exercise. Watch this space ........ Mike

Hi, Simon, Yes, thank you, that's perfectly answered my question. I can now progress re-assembly confident that I've got the bits in the right locations. Mike

HfH, why are you replacing the filler plug? This should be just above the fluid level, so will have very little effect. Why not replace the drain plug which will always be fully submerged and will be quite effective in gathering any ferrous materials in the oil. Mike

Can somebody please tell me the correct location of the Clamp plate, item 2 on p. 892 of the 1987 LR 110 Defender parts catalogue. Does it go inside or outside of the door skin? The details in the parts catalogue do not indicate its actual position. I know, I took it off and should remember where it was fitted, but after nearly four years my memory has faded! Many thanks in advance for any guidance. Mike