Troll Hunter

I seem to remember seeing some time ago a mod that fitted to the inside top of of the door that prevented the door from being removed by overlapping the steel windscreen frame. Normal door opening was not affected as the security mod rotated away from the frame. Sorry, but I can't remember where/when I saw this mod. Perhaps somebody with a few more functioning memory cells can help. Mike

Since you're planning on removing the calipers for an on-bench overhaul go for new stainless pistons. New seals come with them - mine did. I replaced mine about ten years ago and haven't had any problems. The old pistons were showing rusty patches on the sections that were permanently exposed, and since I was fitting new pads at the same time these rusted sections would be pushed back into the calipers and potentially be allowing leaks under the seals. Mike

Many thanks for the responses to my question about heat shrink tubing, especially to DS for his "glue gun" method. Mike

Thanks for the info, guys. I've never used self adhesive tubing, but if I understand correctly, although the individual heat shrink sections can each only extend to the crimped joint, the glue which squeezes out when the tubing is heated forms a waterproof seal around the three wires. If I've got it wrong, please put me right. Thanks. Mike

Years ago I had something similar with my wife's 300Tdi CSW. Out of gear the engine would rev quite happily, but as soon as I put load on the engine the cycle of high revs, almost stalling and back to high revs would persist. It turned out to be the air line between the air filter and the turbo was delaminating. When the engine ran at normal speed the turbo would cause a low pressure in the inlet line, and the inner lining would delaminate and block the air flow. At the then reduced engine speed, and reduced air flow, the inner lining would return to its correct shape and the engine speed would pick-up again. I was told that this is not an uncommon failure. Mike

Is anybody able to answer my question above, please? Mike

Agreed, and they were installed correctly. I was careless assembling the examples for the photo. Mike

In refitting my 110 CSW body bits I started from the back, since the back vertical face of the rear cross-member is your datum surface. This was good advice from a fellow forum member, but I can't remember who. During fitting, I needed/used ratchet straps, a couple of hydraulic bottle jacks, a hi-lift jack, and a spreader bar with threaded end sockets. I also left all bolts loose, but with nuts fitted. This included the rear cross member bolts, bulkhead bolts, roof bolts, lower side to upper side bolts and front wing (outer and inner) mounting bolts. Fitting became a process of a little bit here, then a little bit there, all the while checking and rechecking that alignment was still good. In an earlier post I related the problems I had with fitting the front doors, https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108425-stainless-steel-door-hinge-bolt-kit-problem-fitting/ So, hasten slowly, and keep checking. Mike

Err? 10 hrs per week 50 weeks per year = 500 hrs per year 50000 hrs = 100 yrs. Mike

Please, please, use a thread gauge to measure the thread spacing, tpi or mm/thread, and use a mircrometer to measure the thread diameter. Then, please, use the correct bolts. Many SAE thread and bolt sizes are very close to Metric sizes, but they are not interchangeable. Please use compatible bolts and nuts. Mike

https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/688070/0/grille_integration_kit_with_lazer_triple_r_750_led_spotlights?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Defender 2020 Spotlights&utm_content=Defender 2020 Spotlights+CID_2b4f4d31d06720e880c91cb40b71c5f2&utm_source=Mailr&utm_term=ORDER YOURS NOW Obviously an essential bling for the Chelsea Tractor driver to clearly see the parking lot curbs! I don't know who else would be interested at that price. Mike

Thank you, Tobias. Your description and photos are gem. I hadn't considered the area under my heater box and header tank, out of sight, out of mind, but I've measured it up and I'm pretty sure that I can fit the Webasto there. I might have to remove and relocate the water pump, but I don't think so. I'll almost certainly have to alter the position of the control box because the original mounting panel is fitted between the control box and the heat exchanger. I'll update as I progress. Mike

PaulMc, quoting from your roof top lighting thread, referenced in this thread: "I use a continuous length of the larger gauge cable, with the conductor exposed and the smaller gauge 'spur' to each lamp crimped onto it it, using a splice crimp, which is then over-sleeved with adhesive-lined heatshrink, as this picture sequence illustrates - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02722.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02723.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02724.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02725.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02726.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02727.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02728.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02729.jpg" How do you make these electrical connections waterproof on the side where the two wires exit the heat shrink sleeve, please? Sorry, what I thought would be a couple of photos only came up as the addresses that I copied them from, but you can at least access them. Mike

I'm intrigued by your comment regarding the washer bottle location, Tobias. My vehicle originally had a 3.5 V8, which I replaced with a 300 Tdi. I bought the vehicle in 1995, and as far as I know it had everything in their original places, but the washer bottle is under the front left wing, and obviously well before any TD5. Because this vehicle originally had both a heater and A/C, within the same housing, the housing is huge. Immediately in front of the housing is the coolant header tank, and in front of that is the fuel filter. There is no space to mount anything along that side of the engine, the throttle and FIP making the gap to the inner wing quite narrow. Perhaps I could reconfigure the heater box to make it shorter, since I no longer have A/C. That could free-up some space. And perhaps I could relocate the fuel filter to the bulkhead. I seem to remember having seen it there on some models, buy I can't remember which ones. Also, I could be really radical and dis-assemble the entire Webasto unit and reconfigure it to fit the spaces available. The manual does mention that the water circulation pump can be located remotely from the rest of the unit, and I don't see why the control box can't also be remote from the fire tube/heat exchanger and the fuel pump. Something else to look at. What items do you have in front of your heater, Tobias? Although I mentioned putting it under the passenger seat I'll have to discount that option, Arjan, since it doesn't have the vertical space for the DBW46, and I agree with you, Jocklandjohn, regarding putting it behind the rear wheel. UUUGH! That will be a very last resort location. Anyway, thank you all for your contributions. They've made me think out of the box and I'll explore these other options, and update on my progress. Mike

Jocklandjohn, I see from your post "Possible exhaust ......." that you have a 200Tdi. Mike

Many thanks for your reply, Jocklandjohn. I was beginning to fear that the entire forum was suffering from new year amnesia or that I had committed a mega-pi** off blunder. I know from the threads I have read that a number of members have Webasto or Eberspacher heaters, but perhaps they have forgotten why they put them where they did!! So far, I'm considering putting my unit in one of three places. 1) Under the front passenger seat. Space may be a bit limited, but it's relatively convenient for connecting into the engine cooling system and for connection to a fuel supply. 2) Under the rear wheel box but in front or behind the axle. There seems to be space here without affecting articulation. On either side it's convenient for a fuel supply, but not so good for connecting to the cooling system. 3. In the engine bay, roughly opposite the turbo. Space is severely limited, and a heat shield would almost certainly be required to protect from the exhaust manifold. This would also be a good location for connection to the fuel and cooling systems. This location would probably use a mounting off the chassis similar to yours. Mentioning which, what engine do you have? Any and all comments and suggestions will be gratefully received. Mike

Yes, a piece of thin sheet steel, say 16 - 18 gauge, maybe 20 gauge at a pinch. It's thin enough to shape fairly easily, strong enough to be self supporting, as long as you can minimise the unsupported section, and it provides a good heat shield effect, unaffected by the heat source. And you can weld it to complex shapes if necessary, or even add stiffening/supporting sections if needed. I've used this both to protect the underbody from exhaust pipe heat and in the 300Tdi engine bay to protect the rubber air inlet hose from exhaust manifold heat. Mike

As in the title. Quite a few years ago I bought a second hand Webasto DBW46, which is a coolant heater, not a hot air model, but never got round to fitting it. I think I may get a round twit this spring, for my birthday, so I have started looking for suitable locations. I've searched the forum and have read plenty of threads about various problem fixes and piping runs, but couldn't find any threads that discussed the various installation locations. I must admit that I did not read all 694 results of my searches! So, where have people fitted Webasto or Eberspacher auxiliary heaters, and what were the pros and cons of the various locations considered? All views will be gratefully received. Mike

Yes, you're right, Snagger, I probably could have a variety of lock barrels that would have fitted, but I chose the path of least resistance and opted for central locking. Mike

Bu**er, carp, F**k and many other Saxon swear words that I shouted! As the guy in the Brittanica Restorations video warned, "They're very slippery." Oops, crash, and at least a thousand little bits of glass were on the floor.😞😞😞😞. Oh well, carp happens. Now, do I try to mold a replacement out of some variety of clear plastic, or do I order a replacement from UK, and risk it getting broken in transit? Any recommendations, on either course of action, please? Mike

A alternative to FF's suggestion is an ordinary drill bit, a left hand tap and matching die, all small enough diameter to not jeopardise the original thread. Once the stuck bolt is tapped, make a left hand bolt and thread it into the stuck bolt. Then use the method posted by Bowie69, above. The left hand bolt should be made long enough for you to make a reasonable electrical contact on it as well as get a spanner on it. The left hand threads allow you to attempt to undo the bolt without screwing the smaller bolt out of the stuck bolt. I know that left hand taps and dies are not cheap, but neither is a recovery to a commercial workshop. Mike

Perhaps before UK went decimal there was enough genuine Wire Harness Smoke, and no market for Replacement!😉 Mike

Two humorous views recently circulating this side of the Atlantic. And a happy new year to you all. Mike

My 1991 110 CSW had the same key for ignition, both front doors, rear end door and fuel cap. Ideal! I recently wanted to replace them all because the door locks were so worn that I could open them with a rusty tea spoon and I wanted single key convenience. Unfortunately I couldn't find any supplier of a five barrel single key set. Due to excessive wear and the progress of rust worms, I also had to replace the entire rear end door latch/lock. Imagine my surprise when I found that my original one-key-fits-all also fits my new rear end door lock! Encouraged by this "coincidence" and its implications for the security aspects of fitting new door locks, perhaps they would all work with the original key, I invested in a set of remote locking door locks for the side doors. I have still to decide how to fix the rear end door. A dead-lock or internal bolt (or two) is a consideration. I suppose that what this ramble is trying to say is that it seems very difficult to find a set of five identical barrels, and even then the quality is questionable. Best of luck in your search, and if you're successful please let us all know, and we'll try not to trample each other in our rush to buy. Seriously, please let us know. Mike

Thank you both for your latest responses. I'll get the PRC8463, but with the hols and the dreaded lurgie-19 it'll probably take a couple of weeks before I get it. I'll update then. All the best for Christmas and 2021. Mike