zardos

The other way to see if the plate is bent is take it off and lay it on a flat surface or use a rule to check it is flat. Also check that the calliper mounting bolts are not bent as well (they can bend where the tubes meet the plate) It does not take much plate or bolt bend to put it out of line as the distance of the calliper away from the plate amplifies the effect. Also the disc can be bent as well as it is just laser cut sheet steel (my first x brake had a non flat disc when delivered). A few mods and they can last years of mega abuse

I think having the rear prop off would allow the disc to wobble more as I seem to remember you cannot do the prop bolts up tight to hold the disc without the rear prop on. Thus it would be easier for it not to jam up.

Sounds like the symptoms I had when I bent the X brake mounting plate, try taking the calliper off as just loosening the adjuster won't some times free it. This is due to only one pad moving away from the disc because the 2 bolts that the calliper slide on are no longer parallel. At least doing this simple task if not successful will rule out the X brake. A useful mod to stop this happening again is a different cable mounting bracket (one that ties the other ends of the bolts together)

Depending on the engine quite often the alternator is connected to the starter motor to join it to the high current wire the starter motor has to the battery. It saves a bit on the wiring run.

Same here, my engine has not escaped again

As the Kings Cliff Road is not named on any map (It's just called the "Roman Road" on numerous on line maps) and there are no road name signs on it (I checked street view), but it is the road To Kings Cliffe from Wansford (note the spelling with the extra e ) I've created a linky to some google maps direction from the A47 to Yarwell I believe this is the correct route but let me know if its wrong.

We will be there with heating in the bus

Nah, won't pass the MSA regs

So somebody has nicely published the new 2011 Challenge Roll Over Regs on the AWDC site And updates for Comp Safari Regs 2011 Are there going to be any other updates to the published AWDC Challenge Regs from 2010 for 2011? If Yes, when will they be published? Hopefully somebody can answer these questions.

I've just been using my recently acquired Hydrovane 502, I highly recommend it. 8CFM FAD (Free Air Deliver which is about equivalent it seems to about a 12CFM Air Displacement piston compressor) Ultra quiet, but won't really run off a 13Amp supply as the startup load peaks at 16Amps (Runs at 10Amp)

I've read the exact wording and it's still not a problem. I think your definition of a circuit is not correct. From a dictionary for an Electrical circuit The complete path of an electric current, including the generating apparatus, intervening resistors, or capacitors. A + cable to the high power side of the solenoid does not make a circuit, a circuit is made only when there is a return path through the motor to the earth of the battery. The lower current side of the solenoid does have to go through the main isolator. As for the roll cage I would look at the AWDC regs not the MSA page. "From January 2011 all vehicles competing in All Wheel Drive Club challenge events will be required to have a minimum of a rear roll hoop with backstays and an X reinforcement within the hoop." "all roll bars and roll cages should be built to MSA specifications ..." Which is different to the MSA spec and says "should" not "must". Also part a (iv) of AWDC regs. "All space frame vehicles must have a full cage as part of their overall construction". (which is in the MSA regs as well) The MSA (2010) say that the roll cage MUST be welded and integral to the design for space frames. So any thing not roll cage is part of the space frame and actually must be attached to the roll cage. So again I don't see a problem. But note I'm not an MSA scruntineer.

Remember that is only open and soft top vehicle that need a cage, so you could take the view that tubular chassis/cage in one is just a very strong hard top (as long as it has some non soft material covering the top), that does not require a cage. It is not even recommended to have a cage as it is not a "manufacturers" hard top / truck cab.

The battery isolation has been discussed before, I cannot remember what the conclusion was but my take on it was. The Winch is always isolated from the battery unless the solenoids are energised. So as long as your solenoids are supplied from the main isolator switch then everything should be OK. I believe the regs do not say how isolation should be achieved. So the scrutineer would check this by operating the cut off switch and checking that the engine stops and that various electrical item do not work. If the winch in/out switches were used then nothing would happen as the solenoid would not be able to go from isolated to making a circuit (as it has no power). The separate mechanical isolators are for you convenience only (and should probably not be marked with the red spark stickers).

It should also say what pressure to inflate them to on the sidewall for max load (as well as max pressure). Our Ifor Williams 3.5 ton beaver tail trailer trailer has 95psi printed on the sidewall (check here on where to find the info) Or as a guide check http://www.ntta.co.uk/law/trailers/load_pressure.aspx The table says 87/90 PSI as a guide for 155/70 x 12 depending on speed and axle load but it also depends on the load rating of the tyre which you have not quoted. e.g . our Ifor is 185/60/R12 104/101 N which 104 is 900Kg for a 3.5T trailer (900Kg x 4 = 3.6T) Load and speed tables here

I agree tubular manifolds are a pain, they take up so much space making things difficult to work on. I run my V8 with only the centre box, it makes the sound track better and reduces the cost.

One of the heaviest panels is the bonnet, my brother has a carbon bonnet (but they broke the mould getting it out, so it's a one off) and it is much lighter than standard. The only down side is it is not so good to walk on (which I do frequently).

I just seem to remember the wooded section was a bit more mature and over hanging/lower than Slindon. The road surface is OK. What about coming in the other way? I only thought that going past the old peoples home was the problem.

I have three batteries in parallel without a problem, but that might be because they spend a lot of the time on an intelligent charger.

My brother and I are not the only ones with a largish vehicle, I'm not sure that using the UCR is possible. So what's the score? Could possibly do Landrover and trailer via UCR and coach via the road?

I've got a SEALEY TOOLS 3003CXQ Excellent jack, cost around £80 but it has rocket lift and a very nice jacking pad. When looking I found that a lot of jacks did not go high enough for larger than normal off road tyres. Also it has a very controllable release.

The Scala Rider Q2 quote 8 to 10 hours talk time with a week on standby, an event only tends to last 6 hours and you won't be talking all the time. I've had mine about 2 years and the batteries still last an event fine. I have notice that the range has reduced since everybody started using these headsets but not enough to cause any problems winching. Also note they they do a car charger so, they could be run from the vehicle if required (though the wires would be annoying) There is also the newer Q4 which is around twice the price around £440 but that quote 10 hour talk time and a week standby (also does a much bigger range). See http://www.cardosystems.com/scala-rider/scala-rider-solo

Seem to remember that DPC was quite tough (B&Q link) and various widths all under £20 for 30 meters No idea on the stand out properties of it.

For conveyor belt look up a local firm To give you an idea Here is a place in Sheffield http://www.conveyorbeltingandrollers.com/special_offers_secondhand_glenco.htm That have second hand prices on the net, for the thickness you require (probably about 5mm) they are about £8.50 a meter for the narrowest belt. Other places http://www.southernvulcanizing.co.uk/belting.htm

some people use kaylan from http://www.kaylan.co.uk/ Rally mudguards are made from it It is more flexible than conveyor belt but still has good stand out properties. Not cheap (seem to remember about £200 for a 6mm thick sheet that will do at least 4 wheel arches)

My box (made out of ply by the previous owner) uses a piano hinge as is secured using 2 spring fasteners like http://www.protex.com/product/show/name/20-1066