zardos

From memory it's a 24mm and undo is anti clockwise (when looking at the engine from the front)

Useful link about Autobox transmission temperatures. Found on Ashcroft transmissions web site.

My Sealey 3003CXQ has been brilliant, it has got the height for a Land Rover on larger tyres. Just don't pay list price, I got mine for around £80 a couple of years ago, now a good new price seems to be around £95 or Just £6.39 (at the time of looking for this ebay item )

Pictures of how you did the MAT sensor, as you have had it running I assumed you had that plumbed and wired in. Also you second alternator bracket and alternator looks interesting (something else to do on my list). Thanks

With a tuned 3.9 V8 in my 90 a standard clutch has handled some very heavy roading. Did you just get it wet by not having the wading plug in? Using low box you should not have to slip the clutch at all. PS once you are in there change the clutch fork for a new one or strengthen the original one as the pivot can punch through if weak.

Good job done, just wish my install was progressing so fast but I have other things to do to get the engine plumbed up first and other wiring. I would be interested in more pics, especially of your air plumbing. Also what size box did you use for the ECU and relays, etc and where did you get it from? Thanks

I would get a brand new Adwest box otherwise you don't know how many times they have been re-conditioned and the reconditioned ones don't tend to last in my experience.

I've tried 2 different types of home made rivnut tool and http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut-tool.html works the best. I also tried Simon's method at X-Eng (was at http://www.x-eng.co.uk/rivnut.asp but no longer there) but the nut just turned instead of squashing.

Looking for the thread size of ER4820 (item number 5 in picture below) This is for an N reg 3.9 V8 Disco one. This so I can get a threaded bung to plug up the whole (the vehicle has no heater) Thanks

I had mine fitted by Ashcrofts as people had said they were difficult to get installed correctly.

My Underdrive is quiet, much less noise than the roar of the V8 and the drum of the simex's

I don't think one of these will fit your transfer box http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=16 Otherwise it is great.

May be it was the coach builder that added it.

Our Volvo Coach has a standard tyre valve easily accessible under the bonnet as the emergency air up system (for brakes and suspension), but I think Volvo were different to most other HGV manufacturers in including the pipe and valve as standard.

Why? That pic does not tell the whole story. First off you don't have to do it if you don't want to, the winning team only got 26 out of 40 punches, so you could steer clear of that one and still have enough punches to choose from. Second the first punch (the one in the picture) was not too deep with just the nose partly in the deep water and some people tried for the second punch via a different route instead of trying to cross the deep water.

That punch was much easier reversing in on the other side, the bank of the gully even tilted you towards the punch

Remember a lot of vehicle manufacturers now supply their vehicles with space saver spare tyres which have a lot lower speed rating. So if they are happy legally doing this knowing that all they have done is provide a warning not to exceed the tyre's speed, then it should be OK to run lower speed tyres as long as you don't actually exceed the speed rating.

Yes that is the problem but they have their own ranks and the column title is class one rank and score.

Some of the class one rankings are wrong in the PDF (and different to the text list), there are no 8th and 13th Places.

I would say that a cheapy like Clarke with the pressure wound up is nearly as good as an Ingersoll Rand at lower pressure. This is comparing an Ingersoll Rand at 7bar vs Clarke at 10 bar

May be this 1,2,3 approach should put as a pinned guidance post for the Tools and Fab forum, so if you recommend tools then you say if your answer is 1,2 or 3

I've used a 9 finger and 3 finger (for the coil) with good success for splashing around, usually it is other things that stop it in deep water (like water in the fuel via fuel cap vent) The kit is like http://www.p38spares.co.uk/commerce/product/1603/V8_Distributor_Waterproofing_kit_-_Universal.html

Linked or separate it does not matter, you can try for separate earths but some electrical item are earthed to their metal parts as well so you would have to electrically isolate any metal mounting as well to get separate earths. So its not really practical to go for separate earths, having them linked is fine. You could use a battery isolator between the two batteries but you would loose the connect and forget benefit of a voltage sensitive relay (VSR). I'm sure at some point you would forget to disconnect the two batteries when you don't have the engine running and then flatten the start battery. Knowing what you plan to power with the auxiliary battery is the key to answering this question as the only reason to use an isolator instead of a VSR is if you want extra power for the load on the auxiliary battery and the load is greater than the load rating of the VSR.

I've removed my gearbox with it's underdrive in place (not sure how it compares in size to an overdrive). There was plenty of space.

What's the access like to get our coach in?