cookie64

ive got a genuine lr range rover cap fitted but havnt got round to the wiring yet, my only problem is that the bottom of the float has broken off!! it was brand new so i wonder if my engine runs too hot anyway

what does it do when it doesn't start? just cranks a lot? it kind of sounds like its not getting enough fuel to start so might me worth trying the cheap option first of a new fuel filter and check there is actually fuel in the tank (the gauge might be lying to you, mine stops at the halfway mark haha)

Hi I Have been looking at replacing my chassis so need to lift the body off and was struggling to find the info of which bolts need undoing/removing do you have a list of the bolts you undid or photos maybe? also what else did you have to undo to lift off? E.G- brake lines any wires and the likes thanks tom

sorry to revive such an old thread but i want rid of this resistor ralph do you have any idea which two wires on the pink relay need connecting to gain normal headlight function? thanks tom

OMG i have just looked at cwazyrabbits links look at the angle of the steering bars that thing would be completly uncontrollable!!!!

i understand the point of the sliders and i think corsetti engineering makes them traded as cor4 although i dont understand them on that truck as the wheel arches stick out another 2 foot

im sorry but this is purly scare tactics, both of my parents have been/ are traffic police and they dont hold mot status they dont even get specific training in what is legal just the usual of how to notice if something doesnt look right. this is why if they think it is wrong they will seize the vehicle for further inspection by the experts. the only actual laws state the the tread must be xcovered enough to be safe to other road users and pedestrians and that you must make a resonable effort to reduce road spray. so fitting extended arches with a lip covers you entirely law wise if you fit the flat QT spats then it is essential you fit some mud guards to reduce road spray. the 'paper cuts' should be fine as long as you cant see the fabric coming through obviously if they are gashes of a reasonable size then it would be worth changing them and i would definately limit my speed. i would hate to think what would happen to me and my truck if one of my 33"s was to blow out at 70 on the motorway!!!!!

hey this is an awesome project, i have been following it from the start i was just wondering if you were going to fit some kind of locking device to make sure that the lifting room doesn't come down on you in the night if there are high winds or kids on top of it etc. tom

also intersteted in a braided hose upgrade for these pipes for my 300tdi

got the hinge cover plate back from the laser cutters today and finished it off then trial fit, very sexy

sorry this has taken so long, i dislocated my shoulder so havnt been able to do anything but back on track now have just made up the reciever plate for the swing away, this will slide over the rear crossmember and bolt on, once i know where the swing arm will sit i will weld on a little plinth with a snauff pipe clamp for the arm to locate in

i too have lost a handbrake drum this way, i think it vapourised when it cam eout from under the truck, couldnt find it anywhere. i now have a flange cut off an old prop for 2 wheel drive emergency situations

im no where near the essex area but any local motor factor should be able to sell you the plain tube that you just need to cut to length form to shape over your knee and flare the ends, if you havnt got the equipment to do all this the other options are:- if the pipe is generally good conditon (not just a length of rust) then you can get a compression fitting, cut out the damaged section and bolt the fitting in or go to a local garage they should be able to make a new pipe and change it in about half an hour for not too much money as it is a pretty easy line to run

simple answer is yes it can cause alot of damage but fortunately it isnt at all easy to accidently knock it into difflock while driving, i hang shopping bags off my diff stick so things dont fall out the bag while driving home and its never moved over

if you drop a prop then you will have to put it into difflock to drive, when you do this just make sure you drive it smoothly and kindly, no racing chavs at the lights haha

difflock lights dont always go off immediately, it may take a little bit of movement through the gearbox before it goes off. im guessing you cant drive it atm to check this so maybe jack a corner up and spin a wheel to see if the light gos. mine doesnt ever turn on!!! i only know that it works from the may times of driving 2 wheel drive after snapping a propshaft

This may or maynot be helpful but you should always replace UJs in pairs, you might find that the one you didnt change is now starting to fail. also you should regrease UJs after about a week of running them, if grease doesnt come out of all 4 bearing cups then you will have to drop it off and check for tightness then re-grease and hope all 4 squirt other wise it will need re-building again. IHATE UJs!!!

I Have an armadillo4x4 roof tent and it is fantastic, build quality is great, although maybe slightly thinner than the £2-3K versions it can definately handle everything i have thrown at it and the chaps at armadillo are very helpful indeed, i have just ordered 3 more RTTs of them for some friends ready for and overlanding adventure also the big plus i like is that the ladder doesnt fold or slide but instead is telescopic meaning i can mount on a roof on the pick up on a trailer anywhere and the ladder works right

i had a similar problem for ages and couldnt figure it out, eventually i noticed that the fuel tank cover under the seat wasnt locked properly (i actually noticed this thanks to a big puddle making my legs wet from behind) anyway when i locked it again i no longer had a cold knee

another vote for the bearing boys

why is a four bolt box better than the 6? whats the difference? apart from the obvious 2 bolts hehe

dents in steel work tend to pop out becasue of the metals elasticity, but when you dent ally it tends to stretch beyond its return point so if you try and knock it back into shape you will find that the panel is now to big for your door, best bet is a new door skin (about £75) or if you dont mind the dent then knock it out so your window still works and see how long you last before it annoys you

and if you use a front axle to be able to use the radius arms with ease then you can have 4 wheel sterring cooooool!

it was just a general assortment of logs they had but i wouldnt say they were oozing wet or fully seasoned probably mid way there

http://youtu.be/-E4GmFX3Puo