Maverik

Right chaps... it works!!!! taken the non return valve out totally and fired it up, worked just fine. Switched it off, started up the truck, drove it around for 15 minuets, got back put the webasto on and hey presto worked again, a few air bubbles passed down the fuel line, but nothing to worry about, due to it being an "evaporater" type burner (i finally read the manual cover to cover) the gause type burner feed acts as a wee resovoir type thing so as long as you get the regular volume it can sustain itself. I wont be fully convinced its worked until its past this last test... which is leaving it for a couple of days, to see if any of the lines drain down. I can't see this being a problem as the fuel pump acts as a fuel cut off too, so when shut down it shouldn't leak etc. so as long as all the other joints are air tight, there is no reason the lines should drain down. I feel I've already proved that the engine doesn't suck the lines clear, so we'll see on Sunday night as to whether she starts on the button or wether they'll be any cranking going on... Big thank to Dave for giving me a push back on track to sorting it out... I was close to ripping the thing out and throwing it into the field!

I found I had a similar problem on mine, when I looked underneith, the carrier for the steering rod had dropped, jamming the steering rod when you center the wheels but as it passes through to either side it, it free'd it up. Mav

Hmm, I like the idea of the drilling out the sender option. Cheers Dave for the offer, I've got the installation, parts and service manuals already. I'll have to double check but I belive my pump is installed to the specification, so it should work. going to try mine without a non return and see what happens.

Cheers Dave. After sleeping on the issue, i remembered I found something else out last night. As i wanted to bleed the water system, I started the engine up when I had got the fuel pipe disconnected from the non return, being an innocent engineer I assumed that tapping into the fuel line before the lift pump, all that line would "see" was a suction. Well when I started the engine up fuel started to cascade out the non return valve... net effect, fuel was not been sucked down the line i was expecting it to be sucked down... so now i'm thinking, why do i need non return valve... A wee duagram to illustrate what i just said.

Dave, Do you have a contact etc. for where you got the "working" valve from, I can;t belive there is nothing of any quality out there.

Ok, made some progress of sorts... took the fuel line off above the 1 way valve put it in a tank and fired it up, worked fine, ran for 20 min on its own all great... Ok, my burner and electric work. I bought 2 one way valves so I got the other one put it on the end and started it up. - worked just fine.... Put new 1 way valve in system started it up - worked fine except the valve was leaking fuel... "nipped" it up... and the thing popped as the threads on the rubbish alu body gave way and then the fuel really gushed out...! Conclusions: somehow it doesn;t like takeing fuel from the main lift pump feed, or a dodgy one way valve... As I've already cut the main fuel feed I want to try and pursue this feed method, does anyone know of a good quality, preferably branded fuel one non return valve??? Failing this, I'll have to look into a spill return line source which means tampering with the tank which I would like to avoid if possible... thanks for you help guys if anything it got me thinking again. Mav

I did some testing yesterday in which I dissasembled the unit then went and plugged it all in (in bits) and started it up, I know the individual parts start working like glow pin fan, water pump etc. As regards a bench test, that is a pain as it would mean pulling the loom out which is a last resort for me really... but yes I'm not far off!!!... I'll be having another look at it this evening.

Cheers digger, will drop him a line. Going back over what I've done it, the only thing i had changed/thought i had fixed was the fuel, there is flow but maybe it is restricted somewhere, i'll pull off the pump supply and feed it of a jerry can and see what happens.... after I've put the burner back in... I'm not proud to say it but I've got it down to 40 minuets to totally remove and strip a thermotop c from my truck... this better be worth it if it ever starts working!

Hey Reb, you can re-set the lock out just by disconnecting the power for 10 seconds I think it is, but good call. I don't think there is a flame no, tested the glow pin this evening and thats fine, glows white hot. Dave's got me thinking the only time it has actually worked was when I had the duff one way valve that didn't work, hence I managed to get the thing working when the engine was on, I put a new one way valve in and if I recal I don't think I've had it running properly since... I'll have to try and fire it up again and see what the fuel is doing, but I don;t think its that as the thing blows out huge amounts of vapourised diesel when it evidently doesn't light, which suggests to me the fuel is ok. Its like the glow pin goes out too early or something. I wonder if that one was valve is screwing with the fuel supply to the pump, hmm will have to check the fuel lines to make sure there isn;t any obstructions, its certainly not sucking air. but I really can;t see it being a fuel feed problem... So i did get a flame with the first unit, but then it stopped working, but then replaced with new unit, which I haven't got lit at all...

Ok, the history is here :- http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72215&hl=&fromsearch=1 Summary, 2nd hand webasto burner installation not working. I've tried everything I can think of to fault find this problem and I can't work it out, I'm at my wits end. Does anyone know an expert I can ring/contact with regard to these burners? I don't know what else to do... A rather defeated Mav

The siezing people are talking about is in the viscous unit itself, it just wears out I guess, nothing to be done about it, the viscous center unit just has to be viewed as a consumable, like a timeing belt etc. needs checking/changeing out every so often.

slap a heap of greese on the mounting thread and just spin it on by hand until its tight, then just leave it, i don't do any nipping up with spanner etc. if any tighter you'll have a pain in the neck time getting it off again. the left handed thread will keep it on just fine.

Hmm fans.... I was suprised last winter I did some experimentation as i couldn't get the eng temp gauge up warm enough to give me any hot air during the deep freeze, so I played about with muffs and lack of fans etc... and I found that my engine after a bit of a work out in minus temperatures got a bit hot, so I've always kept the viscous unit on, they're not expensive and I've got a BP one on at the moment and its been fine, i was impressed with the manufactured quality of it. I've got a ford modeo fan all fitted up, but not got around to wireing it in yet. the plan is to get it installed and see how the engine temperature managment works over this winter season. - I'll still keep the fan and the space clear of where it goes, just in case I go somewhere and she starts to get hot, i can fit that up too to give me a bit more suck.

Nice write up mr PB.

I've been having some similar thoughts about the araldite too... i might remove some of it and pop in some liquid metal type resin might hold the heat a little better. I tested the jets by blowing down them, not perticulalry hard to be honest, i'm convinced they would clear with a bit of back pressure from a good squisher pump

Ok some results are in... What I did was, suck water into the nozzle then tape it up so it didn't leak out... popped it in the freezer for 10 min. Said nozzle frozen, I hooked it up to the battery and put it back in the freezer. its been on there about 30 min and Its just managed do heat it up enough to free up one jet. I'm just checking the temp of the freezer now but I recon its at about -18 to -20. so thats actually not bad going me thinks. Got to say guys I'm rather chuffed with that. So my heated jets combine with some high ethanol (ish) based fluid and lack of non return valve I recon will keep me from iceing up for this winter! Mav

If I've got time this evening I'll wire it up and pop it in the freezer ans see what happens!

Resistance on the element showed 48 Ohms, which is probably about right. I put it on a 12v battery last night and it was warming up over a few minuets, it was just a quick trial, when I've finished potting it I plan on filling it up with water and putting it in the freezer and hooking it up to the battery to see if it can defrost itself.

Thats if they're still the same ones...!!! Quite apt this thread has re-appeared... I'm far from in love with my truck right now.... I was thinking of selling my soul for an 2011 X-tech special edition....

Hmmm, well I've got a loud grumbling on power lift off above about 30, i've put it down to my rear diff pinion bearing, as I know it was on its way out, just changed it but not tested yet. truck has a rediculous lift of about 2+ inch I hate it. (i didn't do it) casues all sorts of problems. I'll have got a front prop off a TD5 on the rear shortly, with a 15mm spacer in there to help reduce the spline extension. As all the radious arms are cranked I'll need to change them all out with it why I haven't dropped the lift just yet. get under and check to make sure non of the knuckles and flanges are drinding against each other, i found one of the knuckles was touching the flange on mine under breaking, so had to do a bit of grinding to help give it a bit more clearance. mav

LOL - "silly" - there's a reason for why it doesn't appear over here... at 50 cent a liter you'll find that people will start to 1) drink it, 2)put it in there cars (the big tank that makes it go brum brum), 3)buy it-distill it, sell it on as primium vodka... So the task is set for the more whitty, intelligent and slightly excentric brits to come up with a solution that gets around said problems... Just think how many cent you'd save if you had a genius product like mine!!!

Well totally fallen out with my truck, nice new battery and still wont start up. sticking my hand under the exhaust, it barely gets warm so I'm guessing its the glow plug not lighting the burner. When I can be bothered, I'll pull the birner apart and replace the glow pin with "another" 2nd hand one which I've been assured works correctly. failing that it will be 200+ bucks for a new burner assembly and glow pin. I'm guessing I wont be having a warm cab this winter.

Well I plan on hooking it up to a battery and seeing what it does, how long it takes to heat up, and how hot it gets etc. - I might put it on the ignition or I might put it on the side light circuit... I've got to make sure I get as much of the resitor element covered so I can get it to properly disapait the heat fully to the bits that matter. I've got high hopes! but it could still go all pear shaped!

Ohhhh so you're talking about the actual flange on the diff as apposed to the flange on the axle case, got you... hmmm that makes sense.