Maverik

Right thanks to Boro, I'm now awaiting a delivery a a pair of ex discovery axles.... From what I've gathered, all I need to do is swap over the drive flange as per retro's comments, other than that, are they actually the same axles as defender types? does anyone know, i.e. same sub axles, calipers etc?

If its not been skimmed and warp checked/pressure checked properly then i would say it its that. - new head time perhaps...

In my humble opinion as long at the wires get to where they are going (not too short at either end) and its out of harmes way of rotating machinery, excessive heat and sharp objects, its tide down so it can't move too freely, i don't think you have to worry about it so much... Mav

Sounds like there is definatly an air leak path into a coolent gallery, it could either be a crack or a warped head, was it checked properly on a flat calipbrated table etc or did you just have a look at it..? pressure test would have showen up any cracks too.

Howdy people, To sort out my saggy rear ended LR90 I've just popped some rather nice Gwen lewis 2" spacers in, which seem to have done the job perfectly... In doing this I appear to have exacabated an old problem of the rear pinion on the Salisbiry axle I've got fitted... when removed it last year and did some minor fettling, I noticed that there was above normal play in the pinion bearing. Well now its appears to be grumbling away when I de-clutch and coast along. Its always grumbled but the radio usually covers the noise, with the slightly steaper prop angle it seems to grumble somewhat louder, and its only a matter of time before something goes caput. So optons: which I would like some views on. (the truck is being built to be a mile eating expedition type vehicle I'm slowly building some reliability back into the old girl) Staying with the Salisbury, as the prop fits it and so does everything else.... 1) get it serviced/re-built.... a royal pain as I can't find anyone local who wants to do it... 2) replace it with another 2nd hand salisbury on the off-chance its a better axle. 3) replace it with a BRAND NEW genuine disc version for 900 squid (pricey but rather tempted) Other axles: - will probably need a new prop too... 4) replace with a early discovery axle/ rr classic (which I will need to re-build before putting on - and possible get a new diff for...) ~ 600-700 squid not including my time. 6) replace with a genuine defender rear axle 700-800 squid. (300 for axle, 300 for a ash diff 100-200 for parts) Any thoughts? Cheers Mav

Hmmm tricky, doors are strange animals, I actually had to use the old "knee and bend" method to fit one of mine... that was a TD5 era alu door full door onto a 2003 bulkhead!!! I tried every spacer combination possible, ended up just tweeking the top in by said method. you could try butting some tactical spacers in between the hinge bracket and the door.... not so familiar with series doors.

Good call

A nice fat, flat blade screw driver or something similar, wear some gloves and be weary, they can go pop, they shouldn't "fly off" but be aware.

I can't answer your question, but if I had any doubt, they're about 50p so I'd get some in the post next day and fit some originals anyways. Mav

Do you know the platted sheathed hose that takes oil vapour from your cyclone breather to the output of the air box. (ERR1730 CRANKCASE BREATHER HOSE 200TDI DISCO (G)) its a 1 piece hose with a few tactical bends in it. I've found with minimal mondifcation (it needs cutting down) it fits nicely between the cylinder head output and the webasto pump inlet, and burner outlet and cab heater matrix inlet - hence why you need x 2 of them, you can;t quite make 1 fit cut in 2. I'm plumping mine in as per webasto instructions. webasto pump to suck water from head output, then first push hot water through cab heater matrix then into engine. - the land rover heater matrix is so bad at transfering heat I figure it wont hurt having it first inline. I hope the webasto pump doesn't cause a hindarance!!! I don't think it will.

Yup, its drains pretty much all the oil out the resovior and upper system, you should now treat the system as though it has been totally emptied, I'd recomend bleeding all your breakes after you fix the problem. I had exactly the same happen to one of my front calipers. it seems to be the way they fail. Mav

I'd give it a 6.

off topic slightly, but I had a revalation last night... I found that the breather to air box hose off a discovery 200tdi is the right diameter and has kinks in all the right places for perfectly (ish) plumbing in a webasto thermo top C, i ordered 2 yesterday. hopefully will save on having messy hosework going to and from my burner.

Hmmm, Ross have you ever used them?

Hmmm air bags sound complicated, would prefer to keep simples, what be these air bags?

As I find the drive just fine as it is, I'm swaying towards some Gwyn lewis spacers... but I've always thought of spacers as a bit of a "cheat" dunno why. - any disadvantages for fitting spacers? - I've got +2" shocks, so not concerned about topping out my shocks.

Oi, put the spoon away!!!

Thank yee, it is a "design" orintated conversation as I fully intended it to be!!!

Interesting, my rear's started doing that too after fitting TF big bore's. got some pointy relocators mounted at the top with no problems.

Ok not seen a suspension thread for a while so thought I'd mix it up again... sorry. Right, since getting my truck back on the road (just over a year) the initial set-up was copied off a chap who has a post in the tech archive on how he put a 2+(ish) lift on his 90. He put HD RR classic springs NRC4304's on the rear (which "naturally have +2" over standard but only 170lb) and DA4202's on the front (Brit part HD +2" @ 230lb)... when she's empty, like I mean not an extra nut in the back... the rear end is slightly higher than the front (which is how I want it!) - now I usually carry the spare in the back (temporary measure), 10L fuel, recovery equipment and some tools, which add a bit of perminant ballast. Presently with that standard kit in, the rear end sits just below the front. and you put any more than that in and it just gets worse... drives ok still though, no excessive wollowing. I've still got the winch to put up front, got other bits and bobs to bolt on the rear end to which will make the standard ride height even lower at the back. I'm quite happy with the front as it is, so looking at changeing out the rear springs make her look less saggy. She's going to go traveling next summer (bit of overland) so she's going to have to carry a full load in the back. - Question: Do i go for full on HD rear springs at 340lb/inch (DA4204) or stick to the lighter 220lb/inch (DA4203) spring. I want to avoid changeing the fronts if possible. OR do I just put a spacer in with the springs I've already got..... Any thoughts would be appreciated. Mav

Hmmm a Land rover powered by Nissan... that could work...

Yeah I think I quite like its stance, pig ugly, but I think how its finished helps a bit.

Check this truck out - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AWESOME-Land-Rover-Range-Rover-Off-Road-Hybrid-/230683238229?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item35b5cadf55 Going from the interior it looks like its had some care put into the build, I wonder how well it performs offroad, looks like it has some offroad pedigree, low COG, wide, good departure/entry angles... is it me or is that quite a big winch reel? Mav

joint venture "university, BAE systems and Nissan"... good advert for nissan...

I fitted a wing tank, got uber cheaps of fleebay - new too. all the spare holes in the tank I just filled up with silcone and it doesn't leak. also converted it to a smaller pump rather than the huge one it came with. Its I brilliant conversion, free's up a heap of space, Like mo, i moved mine so I could fit a webasto burner there, which I am just doing now...