Maverik

Thanks chaps. I wondered if that was the case. I've got the hose but the problem is although it is quite a simple plum in... there a couple of intresting angles to get the hose round. I picked up some 19mm 90 deg elbows from B&Q meant to be for fish tanks evidently, they're not pretty but should do the job. - if they can hold up to the normal operating temp.

I'm fitting up a Thermotop C in my LR90 at the moment and was looking at the pipework today for the water, could be a ball ache making something up so was wondering if there was any "standard" pipework...? Anyone know any parts numbers etc? Cheers Mav

te hehe brilliant, i need one of them!

Here here, kind of agree. there are heaps of folk binning perfectly good V8's here as TDI have got the "econamy edge" - can you not pick up another similar lump, swap it out and slowly re-build the original engine to spread cost? Mav

Yours for only... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-90-DEFENDER-SVX-SOFT-TOP-ROOF-ROLL-CAGE-/220860430165?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item336c4eb755 Keep your eye on fleebay as I'm sure I've seen a few new and used NAS roll cage parts knocking around.

its a standard block and head between the 2 models. You'll need all the turbo oil pipework for defender 200tdi... you may have a problem with a clash on the alternator, as an original defender 200tdi the alternator is in in a lower position due to the timing chest shape. everything bolted to it is in a different place. Try get your hands on the timing chest from where you got the other pieces if possible! - I would advise either keeping the engine as a whole a "discovery" set up and working around the wee problems, or convert it to a full defender set up, including time chest. haveing a bit of both will just cause you more clash headaches me thinks. And yes it has been done before. Have a look through the Tech archive lots of info there.

Inlet and exhaust manifolds come in "pairs". you can't mix and match between defender and discovery. e.g. you can't fit a defdner exhaust manifold and have a disco inlet manifold.

Right peeps, got a bit of an update... Moved into a new house/garage on Friday, so priorities first i got straight under the bonnet of the truck! Well I purchased some 8mm thick still plate and did some fettling... think the pictures tell the story... hose/pipe work is a bit temporary, but will make up some nice pipework in the fullness of time. I've now got a hugemongus space for the likes of my Webesto heater and winch solenoid etc. Before... After...

Good to hear you've got it sorted!

I actually saw an early 200 csw with little mud covers attached to the 2 screw (wheel arch to bulkhead) then attaching themselves to the inderside of the floor pan. never seen them before on anything else, but they looked quite genuine. Mav

oh who else could see this tin of worms from the first post...? - there's not been one of these debates for some time!

Hehehe, this made me chuckle

Geoff, when's your next run? quite keen to get out with you lot, but still got a few bits to sort out on the truck before i want to take her long distance again. Mav

Hahaha right... bit of ned bling huh

Huh, interesting, I'd never noticed this before!

Not entirly sure how legal that is...

You Prop looks somthing like this below, there is a splined shaft in the middle to allow the prop to get longer and shorter taking into account the axle movement. If this gets stuck in one position, everytime you go over a bump it wont contract thus putting a shock up into your transfer box/gearbox/engine, trust me, you will notice it.

Check your prop shafts, if the sliders have sized then there is no movement for when the suspension moves, this put's a shock through your transmission system. To me though sounds like 1 or more of your dampers are shot.. but usually they just stop damping rather than locking solid. Also have a check of all your bushes again, sounds like you may have got metal to metal contact somewhere.

Perfect, i was just about to ask the same question!

Thanks for the tips Paul, I think I'll be investing in a new crimping tool!

I've just completed a basic onreoad/offroad (an ex LR experience track up here) assesment type thing, to allow me to drive our MRT wagons. I did it in a 2011, TDCI 110. I'm used to driving a 86 LR90 (200tdi). I was pleasantly suprised with the 110's offroad performance, like previously said the engine is extremly torquey. The anti stall function combined with the simple traction control allowes you to pretty much go up anything with you not needing to interfere too much you just have to point the wheels in the right direction and hold it to a line. Onroad I can't say I had any problems too, I'm 6ft quite long legged, and didn't have any trouble with leg room (seat goes back quite far without bulkhead). The gear box took a little getting used to as the ranges are quite different to anything else I've driven, 6th gear is a nice to have at motorway speeds. I was'nt really impreesed by the build quality though, being a defender the panels are spot welded in verious places and copareing some of the panels to my 86 truck, you can tell the Alu is a lot thinner and you wont be able to see a flat panel over the whole vehicle - I thought the front wing had been dinged, but turned out to be just marks from the spot welds. All in all, if I had the spare monies, I'd certainly consider buying one.

Lovely Photo's but you really should take more of your truck

hehe yup this is so true

I think I got 2 Genuine ones from Craddocks last summer, I think they cost me in the region of 80 squid each... best price I could find, found they where pretty helpful when i rang them up. Mav

Now, I didn't intend this thread to become anything other than a reflection on vehicles prices, especially in the "ecanomic" enviroment. i could go to my local LR garage and pickup a new truck for the prices Nene charge, I just wondered if they did sprinkle magic fairy dust on them to make them better than a new vehicle, from the answers here I'm guessing not.