Maverik

If you're not in a super rush, I definitely have a list of the parts I bought when I re-built my early front axle. I can post it up later but don't have it to hand. If you've a bit of patience, I'd say for parts assurance, its not a big hassle ordering the parts individually, I did, i think the majority of bits came from LR series, with the exception of some genuine stuff off fleebay. - I was adament i wanted genuine or as near as dammit, Mav

Hahaha totally agree (*as I flick out a crdit card to remove the one last sticker left on the truck - the previous owner put them on!!!*)

Yup axles will fit, as just about to put a couple on my 90, you'll need to change out the diff drive flange on the rear axle, apart from that I am led to belive they are identical. Stteering box will fit too.

I don't have to run my light off the 2nd battery, I'm chooseing too. In essence the way I have my secondary fuesebox i can run it off either - the idea in my head is to have available/conserve as much starting power as I can. especially with the cold weather comeing. Split charge relay 180amp continous 240amp short duration - so i should hope it can handle a bit of winching.

Battery 1 - Starting and vehicle running Battery 2 - Winch, Webasto heater, Elec Compressor, roof/work lights, extra interior lights... and anything else i've forgotten...

Why o why do people feel they need to turn land rovers into trailers... to me this is a fate worse than death for any land rover... living with the misery that its half decapitated body will never again do what god designed it to do! - in my no land rover is past it! hmmf

Aye, I've got a relay split charge, nothing fancy, one of Si's x-eng ones. Ideally I want one to be a starting motor and the other to be ancillaries. 2 yellow tops I would have thought aren't quite the right match demand wise...

I've got a Yellow top Optima in at the mo and want to compliment it with another battery, I've got split charge system and uprated alternator and wiring already. So Question: Do the pair of batteries need to be matched in any special way (other than the obvious 12v)? Cheers Mav

I'm juts installing a burner unit in my LR90, hopefully be finished tommorow! - but I just came along this link just now which i could have done with last month but hey ho, nice easy instructions and pictures for doing a burner service. Linky: http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=20695 Mav

Hi Les, do you know why that is? (back to front)? i thought the clutch plate was symetrical?

I'm going to put them all in Huge plastic bags, like the government did with that stash of vehicles somewhere in englanshire where they dumped them in the bottom of a lake to keep them safe from Nuclear attack... and they're still there waiting to be uncovered by me!!! - see I've got a perfect plan!

You know how people have been hoarding 100watt lightbulbs and the like after they where banned. i think I'm going to start hoarding land rover 90's 110's and Defenders. Rent an old barn and fill it to the top, then in 5-10 years I'll make a cool million selling them on as collectors items...

Sorry, its maybe lost in translation, so are you saying when you press the clutch pedal down it does not disengage the drive? i.e when you start the truck in Neutral, engine running, it wont go into gear as you cannot dis-engage the drive. Did you replace the clutch cover with the new clutch plate too? - was it identical to the one you took off? - why did you change the flywheel? Did you move the gearbox back to access the clutch, or move the engine forward? How does the clutch pedal feel comapred to "usual" lighter, harder? etc. Cheers Mav

U.G.L.Y - if we're getting into a pissing match of who's boat is best, I'm going to submit mine http://www.shipbuilding-industry.eu/shipbuilding_v2/?tag=seven-borealis

Whooopa, I'm in

Did you check the spigot bush fitted on the gear box input shaft before you installed it? - I was talking to a friend who was doing an LR engine swap not 300tdi, and he found the new spigot was fractionally too small for the input shaft end.. he said he took it out and luckily had a lathe facility to bore it out. Is your's a genuine LR spigot bush per chance? They can be a total PITA to fit sometimes, you only have to be slightly off perpendicular for it not to want to go in.

Oooo, nice. is the grill spot welded to the tubes?

The thing is with Dana axles, including the 60 (Salisbury) the pre-load of the bearings is set by the force the caseing exerts back onto the diff output bearings... so you start cutting or even shaving bits of the case, it will mess up the preload force... ( I would have thought reduce it) this is not good. certainly for longevity with a bearing set-up. but if you're using it for a challange vehicle type things that will do short high work types of runs rather than 10hrs cruisng on a motorway you can probably get away with it. Just something to consider. I'm sure I was reading a salisbury overhaul manual and it was warning that if you over cook "squashing" the housing to get the diff out by as much as a mm, you can ruin the caseing.

be mindfull of turning it the other way though as you could cause the timeing belt to jump a tooth or 2 on the injector pump timing pulley. Mav

Cheers Steve, the Salisbury is drum brakes so won't be a problem. Other than the spring seats there wont be anything for me to carry over from the old axle.

Admin - after reading the said link above, I think it may be a topic for the Tech Archive, got some quite good info contained!

Ok, not quite got a direct answer as yet, but take a look at this web page... I'm still reading through it myself... http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html tbh - unless there is a residant expert on oil - i think google will be your friend in this one. Mav

You are correct. I worked this out the other day for my webasto installation.

Mo's fitted gas struts to his bonnet http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=50029&st=220

Ahhhh... so thats where Land rover got the idea for the layout of the PUMA...