Maverik

Yup, thats the only thing I got to work, had to do that far too many times! The fun soon wore off! Will have a look at it tonight for you.

If you look at the parts manual, the length of studs on the diff flange is not an indicator of anything as there where 2 types, long and short. As far as I can make reference too, so i stand to be corrected, but I belive that all diff mounting studs are imperial?...

Whats it for per chance?

Na my idea is better

Ok, well i was going to have to get some new bats sometime so just purchsased 2x Numax fancy pants double whatsists batteries. My latest and last ditch effort to get this flippin burner going. The latest theory is that it is a battery thing, and that it doesnt have enough power to run the fuel pump, water pump and air fan and properly sustain a "hot" enough glow pin to get the burner up to temperature, I'm assuming once the burner is fully lit it sustaines itself... Batteries on there way, watch this space... or there will be a Thermotop C put on ebay soon....!

Hmm... I think the battery might be on its way out anyway, so I'm going to invest in another, but I have noticed that the fan slows down just slightly when the fuel pump pulses, which indicates the battery can't sustain both as it should. I just wonder if the glow plugs not getting enough juice. I did have it running for a length of time when I first had an issue with the not return valve on the fuel, the thing would only run with the engine going (posetive fuel feed) - but now I've solved the lack of bubbles in the fuel the thing blows itself out - I'm just trying to work out what I have changed in that time, the only thing left is eaither a weird electrical fault or the battery... It has enough juice for the pump and fan, but not quite enough to keep the glow pin hot for the start up... time to melt the credit card again...

Here you go mo, unfotunatly I'd already extracted the heating element from the plastic jets, looks like this. I've removed the plug and will put some small blade connectors on so it will fit through the bulkhead hole A bit of dremil action to make a hole... and some slots for the wires... Araldited into place... and then "potting" the rest of it, bot cold in the garage so will finish it off tomorrow when its set - I intend on filling the hole thing to make it a suitable heat sink... hopefully. Will do some freezer testing when I've got the wires set in. Mav

experiments failed... longer exhaust, still stops after about 2 min. Put battery on charge to make sure it wasn;t a lack of Juice problem and still did it. Something fundimentaly wrong, but just can't for the life of me figure out what it is.

I'd agree, it does sound like the flame is kind of blown out quite simpley. I'll have a play restricting the exhaust, see what happens. I just checked the manual and its says minimum is 500mm Max is 1000mm, i wonder if I'm on the edge of that. I'd ruled out a "back pressure" problem as I assumed that it would be designed to be able to deal with a variation in exhaust types... Hopefully that is the problem! Cheers Mav

I got the highest alcohol content available last winter and it didn't freeze in the lines or the bottle, just the nozzles went. - and thats just pottering about up here, we got a few regular -15... and that combined with the windchill of any driving seemed to cause the nozzles to freeze up. never had the problem in my focus though... it has heated nozzles!

Now I'm a little fed up. spent a fair few hrs, sorting out my spare burner, pulled the original out and plumed this one in and exactly the same happens (apart from the fan sounding a fair bit healthier) but it still appears to blow itself out... I took the air intak pipe off, still did it, so not a restriction, can't see it being the exhaust being a problem, sods law would dictate that this glow pin could be broken too, but I'm not sure I'd belive that with it acting just like the first one. I guess it could be the electrics... but what i cant work out is what in the electrics could physically put the flame out... I've sent an email out to Mr Webasto, also a local webasto service center up here, but doubt I'll get a reply. I've seen an error code reader on fleebay... that might be the next step..

Standby, I was replacing my rear axle at the weekend

What I have done is thus.... bought a new TD5 squisher nozzle... bought a new "heated" disco nozzle... destroy disco nozzle to get hold of the wee heater resistor - stick heater resistor onto TD5 squisher nozzle and plug in... Not quite finished it yet, nor thought about quite how I'll wire it in, but I think I'm onto a winner for a lot less that 150 squid plus! Mav

hmm, I've looked at a few 90's and 110's of 03-04 era, and they have been sheds - worked very hard, every panel dinted/damaged, oil leeks, getting on for 100k some chassis rot, totally trashed interiors, and they where both asking for 4.5-5k +VAT. (semi private sales, old estate vehicles) pictures will help, but its so hard with defenders, best thing you can do is look around and see what a standard one is going for in the same condition and add a bit for your extra's...

I had this problem and it was due to a rubbish check valve... so now got one of these installed and its doing the trick just fine... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270812025164?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Its got a proper wee check valve insert in it, I had to nip it up when I got to stop a wee leek, its fine now. I'm a little confused... which webasto unit are you using? - I'm guessing its not a thermo top... as they don;t have fuel returns.... Anyways, i think I'd put a non return on the output too... as the injector pump to tank could be drawing a vacume on the oulet causing air to be drawn in...? Mav

oh poor thing, another sad case of land rover injustice...

Cheers Si, I've got a 2nd heater I'm going to strip apart, clean and put that in see if i get a result, I'm going for a shot in the dark thats its the glow plug thats got a problem and from what I can gather, this is what sustains the flame. Mav

Steady - it is a fine line which I'm trying to work out myself. - In my mind landrover did certain things for some good reasons, so sticking to "factory" type set-ups you can't go wrong... but on the flip side these can also be far from perfect depending on the application.

There is now!!!, I've got bigger fish to fry, Disc brake rear axle and 23 spline diffs here i come....!

I've got this setup http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=71718&hl=&fromsearch=1 and 265x75xR16's AT2's on at the moment. I've got Terrafirma Big bores on just now and I think they're great. (touch wood)

I had this similar debate not long ago, I just put in 2" spacer (a fancy gwyn lewis set - very nice) so empty she looks like a something out of moster trucks are us, but with a bit of weight in the back she drops to just right about 20mm lift on the back over what it was before - 20mm, feels a lot more posetive to drive and lacks the saggyness... something to bear in mind is watching your prop angles though...!

Could be your slave cylinder seizing up or the worse it being somthing to do with the clutch plates, first port of call fo rme would be to replace the slave cylinder.... unless you've heard nasty noises coming from the bellhousing area (suggesting a clutch fork/bearing/plate problem...) What colour is the oil in the master reservoir? - if its gray/black, suggests a seal had started/totally disintigrated. Mav

So the moral of the story, not a lot is gained from using stainless bolts over a well greesed/protected galvanised steel bolt....

I scowerd the earth for someone breaking a 205... lol - couldn't find one, so put the idea on "ice" until i could make somthing sexy for myself.

Ooooo, i'm a bit of Diesel weasel, but gads, that does looks like something I could be converted by... ooooo