Maverik

Its as strong as you want to make it, the idea was that its built in such a way that any forces acting on it forward act more imn shear, which is taken up on the locator dowels. yeah it needs somewhat refineing, it was just a 5 minute sketch but that what I have in mind....

My pedal feels great - compared to every other defender I've driven to date.

Hey Mo, The only time I ever had long travel was when the front piston seal had gone in the master cylinder. due to its fail safe design, the long travel is due to the aft piston having to take up the slack of lack of effort fron the front piston (that was bypassing), then the rear piston was acting as the force for both the front and back wheels. So I was still getting sound breaking effort, but only at the very bottom of travel of the pedal. That was with salisbury drums on the back and discs up front with later "standardised" type master cylinder set-up. Mine didn't really "pump up " either as the seal was obviously bypassing so much, so it was just hard at the lower end of the pedal travel. baffled me for some time, was amazing as soon as I changed the master. for the price too its not an expensive fix.

Hmm a very difficult subject, I'm a walker, mountain biker, and I drive a 4x4. There are some valid arguments but alas there will always be an unbalance and eco worriers are getting much strong in a eco orinatated world. (which is not a bad thing) - every group/organisation has there "fanatics" and how I see it is that they seem to get the attention of certainly the media (which doesn't allow the balanced view to be portrade). I thought the documentry was pretty good, I don't think it was perticulary bad for 4x4'ers... alas most land rover drivers don't have time to write all the pretty pettitions and the like... that some of the shown fanatical rammbler types do, they're usually on there back under the truck trying to fix it! - I did notice the portrayed average age of the petitioners was somewhat unbalanced... i think that has something to do with it...

HAHAHAHA - OMG the penny has just dropped, that's why there was an M8 hole tapped straight through that flippin center piece!!! well 1) I hadn't seen the tech thread, 2) at the time I didn't know the threaded hole went all the way through 3).... I was a man on a mission!.. Darn, i thought I'd done my home work on this one too!

Yeah, I replaced the oil seal when I finally got it off, new flange seemed to fit on and up quite nicely, I have had problems with some pinion seals before, i think there are a couple of different types (all do the same job) but some seem to work better. Play in the pinion bearing can exasabate that too.

I have the same problem, so i came up with this... I tried to get Si at X-eng to make some but he didn't bite Mav

Hehe, funny you should say use redex, i had actually just dosed the tank when I started installing this thing so the first few burns ahd redex going through it - I was actually a bit worried it would cause a build up of carp in the burner being an addative an all. from this link - http://www.gwagen.de/images/webasto/schnit_animated.gif I don't think there is a nozzle as such, i think it the diesel soakes a fibre pad which then is ignited by the glow pin..

Ok, so I wonder if its the glow pin then, does this stay "glowing hot" all the time thus sustaining combustion? i've seen a few graphics but I'm not entirly sure how the thing is meant to work. I know after first ignition its goes into resistance mode so it can detect when there is a flame out... but would a duff glow pin cause a flame out. - when i stripped it out I measured the resistance on the pin as per the webasto workshop manual and it came up ok, thats why I left it in... Thermo top C was easy enough to fit in my opinion, I did a fair bit of planning though to make sure I had all the bits. I used 2x disco breather hoses for the water hose, got a kit of fuel pipe bits from fleebay. new fuel pump, t-piece and non return valve, exhaust tube and lagging. and a semi origianal wireing loom. and a telestart system from a chap off here. I was going to do a wee build threat on it, but not got around to it yet. - oh yeah I actually bought another burner of fleebay too for spares, lucky i did as one of the water pumps was duff. Mav

Hey Si, thermo top C, I'm not sure I can change burner nozzles as i don't think you can get to it, its part of the burner assembly and is all sealed into this fancy mesh type burner thing.

Ok, I'm dofo getting a flame out as the fuel pumps keeps on supplying - don't seem to be hearing any gurggling or bubling. Now its interesting what you say about the voltage... as I did get a flat battery the other day and needed to charge it up. I'll try it with the engine running tomorrow and see what happens, when I was sorting the fuel problem (dodgy non return valve) I did manage to get it running quite happily with the wngine running. Is there anything I can do about the voltage other than new batteries?

PITA!!!

Also very true, hence why I don't usually go BP unless its an emergancy.

Ok just fitted a ex rover 75 Webasto to my truck. and it seems to flame out after about 2 minutes going along just fine then you hear the "roooar" stop and it starts bloweing out fuel vapour. Exhaust is about 500mm long with no silencer on. After installing it from experience i know there is some air still in the coolent system somewhere (sponge hose feeling) and reading the blurb about the heaters, there is a cut out for over temp if there's lack of water flow (water pump works as I've tested it) if air lock anyone got any tips on removing the air? Fuel delivery is fine, no air etc. (new pump). Its a 2nd hand unit, which I cleaned/overhauld with new gaskets etc. Could it be related to a duff glowplug element? Anyone have any suggestions? Cheers Mav

Just use a bit of air of fuel hose of the right diammeter, its usually about a fiver a meter, depending on where you get it from.

I've got an Armstrong too and seems fine a year in - thats with light offroad driving and 8k on road driving. The main quibble i have with Britpart is that some of there simpler parts are made reasonable well, but you get stupid things happen like screw pitches don't quite line up and sloppy sizing of stuff, so it makes it a pain to fit, or it doesn't fit at all. So if the part falls out of any of those catagories, (critical size, safety, critical reliability) then you may find summit that works, but just be prepared for it to fail, and when it doesn't after a year, it makes you happy! So go for a Britpart steering damper, it it fails its not the end of the world and just don;t get another one from them.

Good luck mateys!!!

I may be totally wrong, but I'm not sure it matters, I think they will both fit.

I just put tractrol down in mine too, but i used an aerosol etch primer to prep after keying it with I think 120 grit, seems fine so far. Is the paint new?

I'd agree with Ralph, I replaced my fuses with flat blade ones. I used the old mounting plate, i just made the holes bigger where the original holders where and managed to slot in 2 standard fuse holders (minus the protector top thing). works a dream, need a bit of patience and need to be very consistant in transfering the wires over so you don't get anything mixed up. I soldered and heat shrinked all mine.

I'm just waiting for some disco axles to be delivered and I belive the only thing that needs changing is the diff drive flange and it can be a bit stubborn so a puller of sorts might need to be used, there are links in the tech archive like HFH has posted. Might be worth checking/replacing your A-frame ball joint too while you have access to it.

Yup I have literally just done that, 2230hrs last night to be precise, it works fine but you need a non return valve on the feed to the doseing pump. i would also reccomend using the slighty better fuel hose clamps rather than the jubilee type, i found they didn't seal on the hard plastic hose very well. - Also watch the quality of your non return valve! I had to change the original one I got for the job it was allowing the engine to suck back air into the system.

What size andersen connector would you go for?

It depends on the estate you're talking too, some are very open and happy to let you cross there land some are not. Some even get upety if you camp on certain bits of hill. Its usually policed rather well too, by the local gillies, rangers and game keepers - you get in with the right person you'll be fine, but its a bit of a black art. - and if you screw them in any way, they have better memories than elephants!

After doing a quick google search to see what the difference between the 2 is, I probably would. But generally i wouldn't go mixing oil if i could help it. Mav