Maverik

It is possible doing it in situe, but its not the easiest of jobs as Nick says. just make sure you greese up the bolts before you put them back in...

Have a good poke about your wings and the skins, they can be a total ball ache to remove, I think I found a wee youtube video of a guy doing it. its just very tight thats all getting a spanner type device to one side of the bolts... - aye the holes are on the inside of the wings like a flange fitting. The wings look the part, I'd say just as robust if not better, not had any problems with the strength of the wings been compromised either. I also can't see that painting them would be a problem, just as long as you use the right primer. I lot less prone to those small dints and dings.

I've got some fitted, got them from Paddocks. correct shape and dimensions, but I had to elongate all the bolt holes as they where drilled about 5 mm out, not difficult, juts annoying. They look good on the vehicle, not got them painted yet but run them this past 5 months without paint and they're pretty tough. they feel a good thinkness too.

I got a direct adwest box last October, definatly worth the money me thinks.

Hey, you'll find that you can't remove the inner wing without removing the outer skin and vice versa, they are attached to each other by the same rather nasty bolts.

hehe, i like it! nice one.

An interesting question tho think about: Are Landrover defenders built to the same spec that they where 25 years ago??? its not just owners that are choosing price of quality... I have a handfull of new (modern) Genuine parts that in comparison to the original spec part (1986 era) is pish... example, the bulkhead. I buy enough genuine parts to do my bit, just sometimes you have to make a compramise, I'd already spent 800 squid on parts that month, it was either that or nothing...

As hoped, I got in touch with Paddock's today and they're sending me a replacement caliper and pads at no cost to me. I little bit worried about fitting another of the same make, but hey ho, they said it was unusual and with a testimony on here I guess I shouldn't quibble.

I got a quote for 2k from just an average shop... thats with minimal body filling etc. pretty pricey.

Just a quick note, pretty miffed but not suprised, when I replaced the front calipers I decided to try Paddock's non genuine calipers mainly due to other costs I was footing for the truck at the time, the caliper is 5 months old and at least one of the pistons is leaking, its going to be sent back and replaced with a genuine unit. Lesson: If you can afford it at the time get genuine calipers, saves the ball ache of changing it out 6 months later. I know there is the inevitable argument of don't compromise on safety. Which I belive I haven't, my initial justification of getting these calipers was on the basis that if it wasn't safe it wouldn't be on the market being sold from a reputable LR parts distributer... Now I'm starting to question that, working in an industry where engineering quality is paramount, it hacks me off that there is guff like this out there and people are happy selling it.

hehe, nice one mate!!!

this is a "family" forum after all!!!

well I dunna want her to dint my panels do I!

Indeed... 1 money pit just isn't good enough...

Just check/be aware of what Max mileage you can get out of that...

Are you not meant to have the "internal" bar Item 16 fitted also, in my thinking this is pretty critical to keep the rigidity no?

Have a look at this link.... should answer a few questions. My link

you need to brace the flange, i usually get a bolt, put it through the hole in the handle of an adjustable spanner then bolt it to the flange, then hook a piece of tube into the jaw of the spanner then jam it on the floor or on the chasis, there is too much spring in the transmission to get a shock onto the nut with a breaker bar. I found you could if you had a helper get some one to stand on the brake when you do it that should improve things a bit.

this is what I was looking for http://www.securon.co.uk/military%20gallery.htm

I've got Sparco bucket seats and some sparco 4 point harnesses in my LR90, at the moment I'm doing more road miles than offroad and the 4 point harnesses in it aren't that suitable for road driving as you can't have them very tight to operate the truck effectivly which kinda rules them out for being "safe". I've spotted a few 3 point type harness belts, one being from paddocks. Has anyone got any experience of 4 point inertia type seat belts? I'm sure I saw some in a photo of some fancy SAS type MOD land rovers. Anyone any idea's. The bucket seats wont allow me to fit standard belts or I would. Cheers Mav

On the subject of supply - I bought an OEM one from LRseries and it turned up in a Britpart box, I rang them as it was actually the 2nd pump they had sent as the first was a mistaken wrong part. the answer I got was that it was a genuine OEM part but just came through Britpart, i was a bit sceptical about this but i had a good look at the pump before it went on and the quality looked looked the same as the genuine part I took off in the first place. I seem to have got a minor intemittent stiff area on the steering but I put it down to stiff joints.

Have a read of this thread... I feel myself in a rather similar position! My link

Yeah, I've never been one for being a sheep, but I do hate being cought out so I lke to plan for the worst...!

Ok, still not got round to putting the wheel back on the bonnet for pics, but I juts got board and drew it in 3D instead, gives you a bit of an impression. I think I'm going to give it a go, it may be not quite right for these wheel/tyre combo, but I'll consider down sizing my tyres a little big next time, to balance things out.