Maverik

Ok, wild thought here - when I did my tappets I read somewhere that its not advisable to turn your engine backward (and if you think about it its quite obvious - you get the same effect when you shift down a gear on your mountain bike then try freewheeling the chain the oposite way, the spring of the rear mech starts to spring, anyways) as you could get some slack build up in the belt... as the system is only really designed to run one direction (where all the pulleys are etc.) if you had turned it back a bit as you do when your trying to get TDC on one of your cylinders, could on the last tapped you turned the engine backward which could have main the timing belt bunch up at the wrong place (as it would just take up slack in the tensioner) then when you went to start it up it could have jumped a tooth on the fuel timing pulley... hence the weird occurance of the smoke after doing the tappets??? am I talking bull...?

Zim, I'm just north of Aberdeen, I did have a brain wave, I recon heavy duty fuel line should do the job... You know any chandlers up here by any chance? Cheers

I've got a RRC PAS resovoir and filter plumbed into my truck at the moment, but the hoses I used where salvaged old hose from another RR. the hose is a bit short and its starting to die/colapse. I've been search hi and low for some replacment hoseing. Its all low pressure side stuff, so its the main suction hose and the oil return hose from the box. I just want some unterminated hose. Can anyone reccomend some hydraulic oil resistant hose so I can sort it out? I've been to several local hydraulic shops and as soon as i say "power steering" they pretty much just switch off "sorry thats all expensive custom auto stuff" is the usual reply. I've noticed its not full on Hydraulic wire braid hose, more a fabric/rubber mix, like a silicone one but just a type of black rubber. I've thought about using silicone but unless it has really thick walls it will want to colapse when bent around a corner, also is flippin expensive. Any help would be appreciated. Mav

I did it in an evening... with a good head torch too! that was the whole lot. the trickyest bit is getting your spanners in to take off/instal the inlet-outlet hpipes on the box. Other than that a straight forward knuckle bashing job.

There are some good guides to springs on the Tech Archive that would probably answer your questions, springs are relativly cheap anyways. I used one of the threads as a guide and now have FRONT NRC4304 REAR DA4202 They are are a mix of performance/heavy duty springs I think for RRC's, I have some terrafima big bore shocks, the springs do have a bit of a lift but not so much as the ones I took of it. I have a heavy bumper and winch and intending on a bonnet mounted wheel. It can be a bot of a bumpy ride on back lanes going at 60 when empty, but once you put some weight in her she improves hugely and I swear she corners better than the focus. I use my truck for everyday use, semi loaded, got more overland type activities in mind for the set up rather than axle twisting challange events.

I've replaced my PAS box and the pump, and occasionally the steering gets stiff either side of centered. Juts looking into it now. when I installed the new box - then pump, I got considerable amounts of air out the bleed screw on the top of the box, I'm just wondering if it needs another bleed just now. Its worth checking all the steering linkages too, I found that the steering arm protector I have was rubbing on the bar as I had lost a bolt didn't help matters. * and I use DextronIII/ATF - pretty much the same thing.

Yet to explore it but I heard that there was a route from Rhynie to Dufftown, the Cabrach road? Not sure what kinda of right of way this is either. I'm in a very similar position being based in New Deer. There are a few old drovers tracks/roads around, not sure how they are now classed, greenlanes or not. Mav Just found this too "Wades road from Fort Augustus to Laggan"

Ok, well it turns out its a nylon type braid and melts quite readily!, so I just sealed the ends with a lighter... which now makes me question the quality...

Well the pump is driven from the timing wheel in the timing case, I can't see how you would get around not removing the pump without disconnecting the timing pulley really. On the disco 200tdi there is a big nut on the end of the pulley flange, but to be honest you've gone to the effort of removing the timing case cover and all that bumff, I'd just take the tensioner off and belt then the pulley and do it that way. its not a big job to re-instal the timing belt.

I'm glad someone can think for me today, aye some of those wee dainty ones will do the job, will they be ok with a drenching of diesel over them?

Cheers Dave, its the stuff with a kind of fabric braid. the injector fuel spill return pipes are just a push fit onto nipples, there is no clips as standard. I might just put a few blobs of super glue on the fuzzy end to stop it from frayig too much.

200Tdi: One of the injector fuel return lines split the other day, thus prompting me to replace the fuel return pipe on all the injectors, I've got some fuel hose with a braided sheath, is the sheath designed as an abrasion cover to the rubber or is it intgral to the pipe? Anyone got any tips for stopping the braid from fraying when you cut a length? I've not tried to melt the braid yet, but I'm guessing it will be a fire retardant material etc. Cheers Mav

na give up!, thats just the steam from the leaky cabin heater matrix, thats fogging up your glasses

To be honest I've never had a problem seeing my gauges at all? In the day or at night. When I refurbished the console, I replaced all the bulbs with new/nearly new bulbs.

"we" wait with bated breath, well I do! I think its a brilliant bit of kit! Cheets Nils

I'm suprised the likes of Steve Parker hasn't picket up on this wee problem as yet, installing 300tdi into older trucks will only become more popular, and a set of 300tdi - older spec truck engine mounts would be really good. ok - he already does..... well at least for a disco 300tdi into a defender. http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SPCK300

I've been looking for something similar and came across these people... they do a rear for a 90. HERE clicky

Has your vehicle any modifications? Footman james kicked me off my policy last november, I wrang them and they politly declined to give me a reason or a re quote on another policy. I recived a letter the following week saying it was a certificate for 2 years no claims... only had the policy for 1 year... al a bit weird, presently with Frank Pickles (I have a few mods) but then my millage has just run out so looking for anotehr policy...

Zues engineering do a conversion, comes in at about £500 last time I spoke to them. My link

Faulty thermostate. I got a brand new genuine state, installed it and instantly overheated, took it out and boiled it with the old one and it was temprimental in opening/closing.... so put the old one back in... is fine... for now...

As a proclaimed rivet counter, I actually find these type of ads quite interesting, I usualy learn something about landys while doing a bit of investigation into what I'm looking at and what I think I'm looking at. For the obvious "pure" forum readers who want to read only about technical issues than I can see that these posts can cause huge discomfort and loathing.... (cough, cough - get over it!) Why not put a new directory attached to the buyers advice or somewhere, where they can be collated and kept out of immediate sight? Content often included in these threads is very valuable for first time buyers. Mav (The Rivet Counter)

Hmmm, sounds all very fishy to me! or it could be that the article is badly written! Has anyine worked out which feature truck it was? Mav

Welcome to the forum! lets see if we can solve your wee problem! Sounds like your ignition switch has got a problem... When you say fuel pump relay? what do you mean? the Fuel stop solanoid in the injector pump? it sounds like the switch isn't contacting properly or relasing? do you get power to your starter? i.e. does it turn over?

Oh man, I wish someone had told me about one of them things earlier!!!

The spot welds where straight forward, get a nice fat grinding disk and locate them with the dimples and carfully grind it away until you see start to ping away from the plate on the other side. Just watch for the alu snagging the grinding disc. On my 90 there are actually I think 3 rivets as standard, I think they must be the holding rivets for the spot welding process. Unfortuatly I don't have any painted photo's as my truck is still awaiting its date with the spray booth. I thought about it, but then in the end just went for it, it can't detract that much. I'm sure I've seen some series trucks with fully rivited panels on the back... As regards removal of the tub... well if you have a replacemnt tub for cheep then... but they you have cost of spraying the whole thing and not just the panel... changeing the panel is relativly straight forward as long as you keep good reference points (verious ways of doing this) etc. Changing the tub will require less finess at it where. For me it was cheaper and easy for me to do the panel ratehr than the whole tub. I thought it was a challange so I went for it, well chuffed with the outcome.