Maverik

I have a 200tdi on a R380 shorty gearbox, lovely setup now, but with foresight I would have gone with a 300tdi they are now as common as 200's where 5 years ago, lots of cheap spares and engines available.

What I've done with my drivers door is buy a new Post 06 door "shell" i.e. frame and skin, then "transplanted the inernals from my old door to this one. The main door plate fits but you need to make some brackets like this, I put new window slides in too as the old door they had deteriorated.

Black smoke, blue smoke, white smoke... if your lift pump is failing it can cause intermittend fuel flow that can draw air into the system and it messes up the whole combustion process, but yes, black smoke is usually associated with overfuelling of one sort or another (faulty injectors/injector pump), blue smoke is burnt oil and white is steam implying water in the system. If you have a lift pump problem you will find the engine will not run smoothly (even rev's) as the lift pump is purely mechanical its speed is adjusted with the engine speed, if its not syncronised as the diaphgram in the pump has ruptured then it wont supply enough fuel when you try and rev it so you engine rev go all over the place as the flow of fuel is not constant. IMHO! Fuel problems are always quite difficult as some of the symptoms above can also happen if your fuel filter is ready for a change i.e.(full of water and gunk) or if you have a split fuel pipe thats sucking in air... The ultimate problem is its usally undrivability! Excessive smoke, but still drivable sounds more like injector problems, piston ring oil leakage... timing out... the list goes on... there are loads and loads of topics on people problems with fueling etc. Best thing to do is try and list the symptoms as best you can and what you have checked already.

You definatly know when your lift pump is on its way out - amongst many symptoms some are, doesn't rev, lots of black smoke, uneven iddleing, engine "hunting"... I belive its as crwoody described.

Regarding brakes. to be honest its probably not hurting the brake end of the system more the jolt to the transmission would be a concern but to even then I wouldn't worry too much. The only solution I can think of, bar stripping yourt brakes down and thawing/drying them out. If you can you need to get them nice and hot that will get the water out of them... now unfortunatly the present weather conditions aren't exactly good fro driving around with your brakes slightly on! Until you get nice dry roads to warm the brakes up on, I think you'll just have to put up with it. I stand to be corrected though.

Mine had one of these when I got it...

I think you just answered your own question - YES it is!!! I don't know what the outside temperature was but my internal one said 0.1 degrees, that was after a 2 hour drive with luckwarm air fending of the frost on the inside of my windscreen. I couldn't feel my toes and literally couldn't fit any more clothes on... If one wants to operate his landrover well, one has to be alive and unfrozen.

If it makes you feel any better you're not the only one that's ever bought a lemon... Don't despaire too much, but unfortunatly like reto says its part of ownership of an older Landy. This forum was the best thing I joined when I bought my Landy it would not be running today without the knowledge and encouragment I found here.

Aye, well from the looks of it, there are 3 indipendant heater elements, which will help me control the current draw, initially I was only planning on wireing up 1 of the 3 elements see how my alternator holds up to it, but again I wasn't thinking of using it for prolonged use, more a booster to get the air warmer than it presently is! going to build in an "interlock" too, stop me from leaving it on without the blower, don't want the truck to melt!

Ok this is what I put together yesterday, not had chance to test it yet as want to sort the wireing out properly. But I don't think there's a problem with the actual "blow" of the heater just the heat that comes out of it! I have been thinking about putting a "boost" heater in parellel with the present water matrix, I was thinking of something along the lines of a hair dryer heater element type thing... well as posted earlier, after a conversation with another forum member he suggested a Peugot heater matrix, well I picked one up form ebay and fitted it to a spare heater box I had off a TD5, well the installed matrix looks like this... again not properly function tested but I can't see why it shouldn't work, its got pretty heavy duty wireing going to it so it must pull quite a few amps so working on a relay wireing setup for it. It was relativly easy to fit, just needed to dismantle the heater box to get to all the bits so you could cut the slot for it.

Good call mate, I had a bottle of water in my cubby box next to the extinguisher! chances are its a bit cold too.

I found this drawing (I like drawings) of a 109 some time ago gives you the tipping angle of 45 degrees.

ok, you might want to put a filter of sorts on your cabin air intake (wont stop smoke mind), or make sure all the shut off control cables are sealing and doing there job properly. Get a fire extinguisher!!! Get under your truck and clean it up, remove excess oil/greese etc, if you're driving near/over burning debris then this can light old greese under your truck. Make sure all your doors/seals seal and shut as best they can. Make sure your washer bottle is full! I would probably remove things like roof rack etc, dont want stuff getting stuck in it burning! Also I might be tempted to actually remove the snorkel smoke rises... might even be tempted to let the engine breath from the engine bay, mine does at the moment with no adverse effects. Just a few things that might help. Hope the fires get put out soon mate, good luck and be safe!

Looks like your brake fluid check light. this does come on when you start the ignition as a check (I think), although it shouldn't stay on. check your brakes for leaks and the fluid level in the resovoir. To check the switch, you can (with the engine running) just remove the resovir cap to the brake servo and it should light up, then when you screw it back down, it should go out.

He must have been horsing it down that track to get it wedges quite like that! I have to admit you do have to check yourself sometime to remind you that you're not indestructable. but Land Rovers a frickin awesome in this weather!

My MOT inspector took it for a drive up the road... I heard him giving it the old brake test as he 4 wheels skids it past the entrance to the garage!

If you have new tires with an aggresive tread pattern then you're not going to go to far wrong on anything other than pure ice. I'm loving the shear ease that my truck it copeing with the snow, no fancy electronic traction control etc. Its great, you can feel what your wheels are doing and usually sort it out, and control the occasional 4 wheel drift around a corner in 2nd while the car in front is tiptoeing through the snow channels on the edge of slippy slidy.

Some good photo's there mate, what camera did you use?

Well my commute is between 1 and 2 hrs at the moment, I haven't really had a problem with my tires as they are nice and new so still have quite a sharpe tread pattern, but what I've been seeing is increased use of snow plowing around here and the plows seem to glaze the road surface, I actually didn't encounter one black road this morning, I like to be prepared hence why studs are maybe a little more practical at the moment than having to whip snow chains out and fit them up in the middle of a blizzard, I was just weighing up the benefits (if any) of fitting a few lines of studs to the tires.

Ok just found an extract on My link with proper references to legislation. Extract Damage to road, person or vehicle If the tyre causes either damage to the road, or to persons, or to any vehicle using the road. This would cover such instances as if a vehicle with damaged or very oversized tyres which either caught against a person or other vehicle resulting in either damage or injury. Studded tyres also are included in this clause and if used in inappropriate conditions (i.e. where there is no ice or snow) and they damage the road surface then they would be clearly illegal.

There is nothing in the highway code that states that snow chains or studs are illegal (from what I can gather and read for myself)... I stand to be correct with proof...

Hello, I'm running General Grabber AT2's on my 90 at the moment and the performance is excellent in the snow, now for ice its sketchy but all tires skid, now I was debating on getting a set of chains for the truck for icey situations but then had a brainwave about fitting studs to the stud holes on my AT2's, has anyone done this before? or know what type of studs they take or where I could get studs from or anyone know someone who would know about tires and studs? Cheers Mav

My 200tdi froze solid twice (that I know of) in last years deep freeze. Its now running fine, with no apparant ill effects (touche wood) I remember literally catching a day where the temperature creeped above zero and changeing out the coolent PDQ and gingerly starting it to get the anti freeze around the block.

See link My link

We have 20cm and its still snowing, roads are still pretty covered but I recon the rear wheel drive BMW drivers have left them at home today... traffic is moving but so slow, I was driving faster on back roads with said 20cm of snow than on plowed roads with traffic! 4x4 driving in the snow is so much FUN!!!