Maverik

Holy monkeys really! did you not struggle with space?

Ok - a now and next - 3D modelling can come in handy sometimes!

For now guys I think you've tipped the scales for me, I'd be stupid to move it on now after the work I've done and she's lovely to drive, I think I might have a 110 csw itch, but I think I'll keep that put away until I get a decent garage to fettle things in. I'm just going to have to get good at loading her up!!! Again thanks for the wise words.

Hello people, After frequenting this forum for probably just over a year now its helped me build this, what I have today: Now I initially got this vehicle with a grand dream to build it into an Overland type truck that I could take anywhere and do anything in, I wanted it to be a reliable bomb proof truck I could travel in where and when I wanted, like I said with the emphasis on travel and green lane type activities rather than its former existence as a bit of a mud plugger. My build thread is here My link of whats roughly been done to the truck... I now have a dilemma... after frequenting the Land rover world for over a year, I now know that a 90 is not the most ideal base for an Overland type vehicle, but never the less there are overland equipped 90's out there... Before I go spending more money and time on quite custom things like roll cages and roof racks I need to decided if the 90 will fulfil my needs... Now presently it lacks the capacity to hold more than 2 people which isn't the end of the world but does restrict things. I have a ford focus as my other vehicle but running two cars is expensive, so if i did go for a 110csw then the ford would go too, leaving me with one vehicle. I've learnt an incredible amount re-building this truck and it like my baby, but I'm at that point now where I have to work out should I break free and get a 110csw or keep my 2 vehicles and continue with an "overland" 90... I now put it to the infinite wisdom of this forum for guidance. If anyone has thoughts or advice it would be greatly received! Mav

Hmm looking at some web born pictures of other bulkhead removal bars, some of the parts in the listing look sub standard, for example the end/side tubular supports should have an extra length and angel on the bit where it ataches onto the front of the wheel well, is should extend onto the seat belt/chassis bracket these apparently don't do that, the upper tubular part to fix onto the body capping doesn;t look to be included either, but I guess for what you get its a reasonable bargin.

I've noticed on my 200tdi disco engine, the exhaust manifould had a blank port moulded into the casting, which looks like an EGR take off option, just it was never machined and drilled open.

aye, that must be the one, appologies my price must have been off a bit and add infaltion!!! but still I think its well worth the money!

You can get em for about £35 from LR series, I got my 2nd's off ebay, I have definetly found it helps reduce the rattle higher frequency noise, also insulated the bonnet, keeps your engine bay a bit warmer in the cold. I wish I'd installed one earlier.

Hello, that looks like the front of a Jeeeep no??? In my opinion, you might want to do a bit more welding, now you say you're not going to use it in "anger"? whats that mean? if you don't plug the thing in then I would say "yeah its fine" but if you are going to use it in ANY capacity you will need to put some small support gussets undr each overhanging bit of steel, I'd put some small traingles on the front and then on the back, as you have it presently it would probably work... but you run the risk of peeling the steel brackets off the chassis rail as the wire spools to one side of the drum, you get really uneven loadings on these winches and it skews the drum if your not carefull, (ask me how I know this!) they have to have a very rigid foundation. Maybe have a think where the loads are going to run in the structure, force times distance, etc. Forgive the rough sketch, but I was thinking of some extra support like this, hope this helps. the chineese style winches, they may not be gigglepin, but they do the job and can put up with fair hammer.

Would it not be cheaper/easier just to get a V8 truck, I've been watching the fleebay and verious othe rplaces for a 110CSW, and all the V8 models are going heaps cheaper than any TDI, I was actually thinking of doing a reverse conversion as the price difference is that big. Just a thought.

Right found a Chandler down south and now got some 16mm ID ISO fuel hose and its just perfect for using as the return line and suction lines on the PAS system!

Oh, can't say I've ever noticed.

Hey and welcome to the forum, here's your blessing of fire... I have done somthing similar to my 86 LR90. My vehicle was pretty much stripped down when I did it which made wire routing somewhat easier, but its still possible to do it when built up. I put in a total new light circuit with an auxilary circuit too for any bullbar lamps, left the old wireing in, just in case it was needed at another date. I mounted a bank of relays behind the instrument panel and took the relay switch signal of a spur off the headlight switches directly. The power for the relays, I made up some new wiring that I have coming off a new junction box/fusebox I installed behind the passanger seat (attached to the rear bulkhead) So the new power supply goes out the rear battery box, through a hole in the box section behind it, into the cab (new fuse box) then back down the hole through/under the gearbox tunnel, up the front of the bulkhead then through thr driver side penetration to the relays. So the lighting circuit as it is now, has 2 sets of fuses, the relay control circuit (orginal wireing and fuse) and the main lighting power driven from my new fuse box. With regard to your relay wireing. You need 2 relays, one for dip, one for high. you want to wire up your 12v feed to pin 85 and earth 86, then you need a new power supply (nice new bit of wire) to pin 30 and pin 87 goes to your light, (via a new bit of wire). I opted for a totally new supply wiring as I didn't trust getting any other supply from the loom as it is. Now I have a wire diagram of sorts that I used but its not exactly to a standard, its more a mixture of picture parts... I hope I haven't confused you more. Mav

May I ask why one would want to put a 3rd wiper on the windscreen? Is it for challanges etc when you get lots of mud everywhere?

They look a bit long to be those, they could also be these - item 9. I had a similar problem not so long ago too.

I can't wait to be that guy, still got to do my time on the old uns first I recon.... (said sincerly!)

Nice idea, but if my wheel obstructed the view before, it certainly would with a 275 on it plus the depth of the frame, for more standard wheels it would be great. I can see so many plus and minus points, I was debating on ratchet strapping the thing down and going for a longer cruise, see how it felt. As regards rear storage I did find this (below) which I like imensly, but for that cost I could buy a new set of slimmer tyres and a bonnet mount... My link

Says the man with the fancy Puma you had it muddy yet?

Yeah the standard "wolf" type fitting is on the side of the truck, now I'm sure I read something about this that it was illegal here as its obstructs your side view... I stand to be corrected. From a stability point of view this isn't such a good idea.

Hmmm, ok I'll take some more pictures tommorrow from inside the cab.

Aye, with regard to forward vision, do you know if there's a guidline with regard judging whats inside the law? Like I said I had a wee drive around with it up there and it to be honest I've got such an elavated driving position anyway it didn't feel uncomfortable.

There's one on fleebay just now, got to admit if I won the lottery I think I might consider one as my 2nd or 3rd truck

Need your advice and views on whether or not I should mount my spare on my bonnet. now a few points to consider: The bonnet is an old style one with steel support frame so can take a wheel. My wheels are 275/66 R16's Got harder springs on the front to take into account winch/bumper and wheel etc. While testing I manged to open the bonnet myself but its flipping heavy. From inside the cab it does sit high on the bonnet but I felt happy enough that it didn't obstuct my vision. I've presetly got the wheel strapped against the passanger side in the back - which obviously takes up quite a lot of space. I have got a swing away carrier for the rear door, but the wheel is so heavy its putting heaps of stress on the back door and it doesn't seem to fit very well - not sure what make it is, as it was on the truck when I got it. I've got verious steps and brackets already on the back too so will have to faff about making any rear spare wheel carrier fit properly, also the wheel gets in the way of towball mounted bike rack, hence why I'm thinking of going down the bonnet route. A couple of questions, does anyone know if this wheel size will fit on a standard army/LR bonnet wheel mount? and does it look alright? any comments are welcome. Cheers Mav

If you go on the parkers price guide website ( i think land rovers are under "comerical" or "vans" or somthing. go through the hoops of putting in the details, that usually gives you a original purchase price.