Maverik

I'll try planting this one, I could make a fortune.... "Genuine land rover doors, 2nd genaration - home grown" hmm on 2nd thoughts, thats maybe what britpart do and look at there rep...

Holy monkeys, you might need that exorcist... Assuming it was ok in the first instance, i.e. fuel stop solanoid working, sounds like it could be a local fault to your starter/starter circuit, as it didn't fire up then no fuel getting to the engine - so the ignition wasn't on. If its local, perhaps the solanoid switch on the starter could have stuck on - it could only have done that if maybe the spring in the solanoid had failed and not opened the switch properly... or a fault further up the starter circuit i.e. ignition switch, that somhow closed the starter circuit, would have to look at the ignition switch to work out if its possible to just power up one circuit (starter) without powering up the fuel stop solanoid.

B&Q did angle last time I was in. limited profiles but they did it in Alu/steel

Cheers Aragorn, that sthe answer I was looking for. STC4382 was also used on the Disco 1 and RRC was it not, in fact all vehicles I guess that used the same axels.

Just to clarify... you car tried to start itself??? i.e. power to started motor? was it just clicking away as though the starter solanoid was activating, or was it actually spinning up the motor?

Have a Salisbury rear axels that needs new wheel bearings, are they the same as standard axles? also are there any model changes throughtout the years and axel numbers? My understandng is there isn't, except a slight change in a model of half shaft which changes the way the locking washer located on the shaft??? is that correct? cheers Mav

Hehe A pepetual problem I feel I keep hitting - cross compatability of parts - I wish there was a document showing all the parts that have cross compatibility across land rover vehicles. Let me know when you take the plunge

buy a clapped out one on ebay for 500 squid, then spend 20k on it to restore it - you still have 26k change... even the website says you can make one look like that for £11500... ... ... I guess the guy that buys that smokes cigars made from rolled up £50's...

I've been thinking the same thing... not come to a conclusion yet as had to put it on the back burner. Some interesting reading in this post. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56568&st=0&p=499597&fromsearch=1entry499597 Mav

I have a literally shiney post 06 door in my greenhouse. looks like its all been electro plated rather than "hot dipped" looks a lot tidyer that a standard hot dip like LRforever said. - quite a bit lighter than I was expecting it to be actually.

Also for info, for a TD5 HZ switch, to get the little light in the button to illuminate you join the black/red wire with the orange/red wire. My 86reg 90 with original loom, the dark green wire had a small white rubber band marker on, this attaches to the White with green trace wire as Kev says.

I was going to say the wife... but thats anything under 15mph...

Tiger sealent is ace, super gooey, doesn't leave messy silicone everywhere too, and you can paint over it!I's say it has all the pro's of RTV sealant but is much heavier duty.

fozsug, do you work in a body shop? I've been using Acid 8 etch for some other stuff, gotta say I'm pretty immpressed with it. Does t-wash chemicaly roughen then surface? by the description of application, it speeds up an oxidisation process? - which presumably creates a better keying surface?... I just dont want to paint to a keyed galvanised surface then find out I should have oxidised it before hand.

Cheers, did't think to look there. I was just reading up on the stuff Mordant Solution / T Wash. Anyone know what it actually does to the zinc?

I have a new LR door - steel type fully galvanised, it doesn;t have an undercoat so I need to prime it. I have read verious things about how it needs a little work to properly prime it. - it being my door I want to try get this right so the paint system doesn't start to peel off within a week. Can anyone give me any pointers to how to do this, i.e. paint type, finish etc. I read somewhere it needed wiping down with amonia? - are there any paints out ther that people have used that can do thi already? Cheers Mav

23 Euro is bargin - I just picked up a new 06 onwards door which is fully galvanised witch also has a steel skin... a little expensive at 200 squid, but it will hopefully last as long as the chassis now!

Well true to there word, I got my free safety glasses!!! I also got the funky ones with LED's they're brilliant!!!

I'd cut it off and stick it on here, take some good pictures of it, lick o paint? leave the rest for mr scrap man.

You'd probably get put in Jail for 1)causing physical harm 2)causing mental stress 3)causing mental stress to said "pikeys" family/dog/cat/bestest mate. 4)intention to remove ones leg of said pikey Make sure you leave some water and a banana next to the trap - you don't want to get done for attempted murder.

Just spotted this.... they may courier it across for you? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-rover-90-110-front-axle-case-/270602316333?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f0127aa2d

Would it not be cheaper to buy a 2nd hand front axle then strip and re-build? Something to note/check: earlier axles have narrower front rad arm mounts - also imperial bolts that hold the calipers on.

I've just installed a 5 yr old TD5 bulkhead and I was shocked to find corrosion where I did. The bulkhead is put together from spot welded pressed steel plate. Some of the seems of the plates where they are doubled up are sealed with a tough plastic bond, other holes have a wax type putty covering them.. this is rubbish. I've found water has crept between the non sealed panels which then corrodes and bulges/swells and pushes the (thin) plate apart... I found this had happend especially on the inner drivers side behind the dash - looks like it was condesation that had caused it. so before wax oiling. I inspected the whole thing and wiped Tiger sealant in all the non sealed joints and plates.

Well a pretty good rule of thumb for me is, the more money you spend on somthing the longer, more hassle and damage there is to it, by the time you get it weeks after ticking the "24hr" delivery box. I will say this a lot can be said for phoneing people up - especially to follow up an email. Nowadays inboxes get so full with spam mail etc. it really does detract from it being a usuable communication device. I'm only 27 and I think that sales people are very much about themselves and less about giving a service. Unfortunatly they have us by the balls as we need them for spares and as much as Land Rover spares are resonably common, it is still quite specialised. Having said that, there are quite a few exceptions to the rule, where you still get quality parts and service.

Cheers, I'll go a hunting.