Dave W

Sounds promising, I've not used the calculated load % for MS2 myself, I tend to stick with MAP on the Y axis for my fuel and spark tables because I moved my maps from MS1-Extra. I need to check what the algorithm is but from what I remember it's a mixture of throttle position and MAP. With that in mind, make sure your TPS is calibrated ! The calculated load % is a good option, it just adds another variable into the equation versus straight MAP. You could take the calculation out altogether and just use MAP as your primary load for fuel and ignition. One thing I did notice during a quick check of your msq is the Barometric correction has an odd setting. You have it set to use a second sensor for determining barometric pressure, if you don't actually have an independent sensor (which would be unusual) you should set it to "Initial MAP reading" (it's in "General, lags" in Basic Settings in Tuner Studio. Without a second sensor using your current settings you might be getting some really odd fuel and load calculations as a result although it should recognise this and dismiss the rogue reading so it may be a red herring. You'll find as you get the engine tuned in around idle your MAP will start to drop further, it's one of those things that you end up tweaking and re-tweaking as you get closer to the ideal.

Land Rover red/white are pretty good for a lot of applications or red/yellow if you want a bit softer, both around 17 inches free length, red/white are 170lb/in, red/yellow are slightly longer (1/4 inch or so) and rated at 150lb/in Red/White are often used to give around a 2 inch lift when used on the front of a standard 90, originally fitted to the rear of Range Rovers. Red/Yellow were fitted to the front of diesel Range Rovera and Discoveries and the rear or Range Rovers.

50 is a bit high but not atypical, I've seen similar figures on an RV8 hotwire from that position on the plenum, you normally only get lower than that on overrun. Looking at an old log file from a 3.9 V8 (that was running fine and used the same measuring point) 50 isn't far off the mark. It might be worth running a quick logging session and posting the log file here. Are you getting any resets on the MS2 ? (Sometimes noise from the ignition drivers can cause resets which will cause bad running) For the ignition system it'd be worth putting a fixed timing light on and marking the crank at 0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees. You can then check the ignition timing for each pair of cylinders - you don't need to be 100% accurate but it's worth checking that with the light connected to 1 you are seeing the mark around TDC, 3 at 90, 7 at 180 and 5 at 270. An incorrectly configured toothed wheel setting will give bad ignition timing, getting worse towards the end of the firing order. Which type of timing wheel are you using (36-1 ?) posting the .msq you are using will allow me to check your wheel decoder settings. The settings for the Rover crank position sensor are very different versus a 36-1 wheel, the missing tooth forces a counter reset so earlier cylinders are less effected by a bad setting than later ones.

Check that the connection you are using into the plenum is a simple hole - some of them have restrictors in them and I vaguely remember one of them even having a one way valve. What MAP are you seeing at idle ? What MAP are you seeing before you start the engine ?

It depends which side of the throttle your MAP sensor is hooked up to. Is it on the engine side of the throttle butterfly or the air filter side ? You can get that kind of reversal if you've connected the sensor to the air filter side of the throttle, using the old distributor vacuum connection, for example.

It is possible but it's a real PITA. You can get a ring spanner over it and move it around 1/4 of a turn at a time, i think that's why, on a TD5, they used a very small connector on the wiring for the diff lock switch whereas the hi-lo switch has a normal connector that won't fit through a ring spanner. I found when I did mine that it had to be done from below the vehicle, reaching around the transfer box output housing. I couldn't get to it from above. I also removed the difflock lever connection to give better access for a spanner.

I don't think you can do it with a MegaJolt as it relies too heavily on EDIS to run the ignition. As far as I know the smallest EDIS controller is 4 cylinders and I'm not sure you could configure it for 2. MegaSquirt wouldn't have a problem running it though using MS-Extra or MSII-Extra to fire the coil(s) directly. I know nothing about that particular engine but most flat twins seem to have both pistons at TDC at the same time so running a wasted spark system with a single coil should be easy enough. You could use one half of an EDIS type coil or one of the VW Jetta coils which have their own built in drivers. VW Part number 06A905104 has 4 coils, takes 12v ground and a 5v signal (I think it's 5v, could be 12 !) for each coil. You'd only need two coils in this case and would drive the coil directly from the MegaSquirt. Using the EDIS style coils is also possible but you'd need to build the MS with a coil driver which is not really a problem but not as neat as the VW coil. There are also some coil on/near plug units which have built in drivers (like the ones on the LS1) and have built in drivers, triggered from 5 volts. If the engine is "odd fire" and has the pistons offset so they don't reach TDC at the same time then you can fire them at different times. All you need is a toothed wheel on the crank and a VR sensor, whatever you can fit as you're not limited to 36-1 although that's a good option if you can fit one. You don't need a cam sensor if you run wasted spark. Also if you use MegaSquirt you could consider adding fuel injection at a later stage...

The current version of MobiSquirt works for most MS1-Extra installations. As the web site says, further development has been shelved for the moment, not sure when I'll get a chance to pick it up again unfortunately. The biggest setback was the buyout of Roving Networks by Microchip, they seem to have dropped all support for the RS232 demo boards in favour of PIC and USB based development boards. This means that the RN-134 that was the most accessible and reliable way to link to MegaSquirt is "end of line". I did make some tentative enquiries around having either a WiFi or Bluetooth module custom made but don't really want to go down that route if I can avoid it. If you can find an RN-134 and you are running MS1-extra then you can use the MobiSquirt app.

I just used emulsion on mine, painted about 10 years ago and not needed another coat yet. Painting it on can be a LOT more time consuming than you think it's going to be, especially if, like mine, the bricks have a rough finish. I tried normal brushes and masonry brushes and in the end found the quickest way was to water down the paint a bit and spray it on. I just did two coats of the emulsion.

The control that MS gives you over the temperature at which the fan cuts in and out is far better and based on the temperature at the cylinder head rather than the temperature in the top or bottom hose. This is preferable to a top hose fitting and similar to a bottom hose fitting. Being able to adjust the hysteresis allows you to set a lower activation point than the "mechanical" switches/sensors with a fixed hysteresis where you have to set the turn on point high enough to avoid the turn off point dropping below the thermostat close point. There's absolutely no reason why you can't drive a relay (or two in my case) direct from the MS ECU to control the fans. I use a fan relay and fuse for each fan so I'm unlikely to lose both fans due to a fault in one. If you want the fans running when the engine isn't then you either turn the ignition on and don't start the engine or have a switch on the dash to operate the relays manually - I have this anyway on mine as I use an off/on/on switch in the MS control circuit for the relays to allow the fans to be turned off/auto/always on.

Does it do the same when the fuel tank is full ?

The easy way to verify if the movement is in the wheel bearings or not is to have someone apply the brakes - if the movement goes away it's the wheel bearings.

Just for sanity... how are you setting/tightening the two wheel bearing nuts ? From what I can understand you are saying there is play in the wheel bearings even after replacing the bearings and races. To me this would suggest you're either not setting the nuts correctly or you are missing the thrust washer. If the play in the wheel bearings doesn't go away when you tighten the inner nut up with new bearings then either you have the wrong bearings or the thrust washer is missing.

Not had to tow vehicles around for a few years but, if it's a twin axle and you have someone else to drive the car on the trailer for you then you can usually watch it load and see when it's right. As the centre of mass of the vehicle passes to the front of the trailer you can see the suspension change between the two axles and the weight bear down on the vehicle. If it's a long vehicle without much extra room on the trailer, you may need to try turning the car around if you don't see the transfer on the axles - putting it on backwards would make sense though I'd have thought.

All the RRC 3.9s were Hotwire so would have the 14CUX, I can't think of any instance of a 3.9 Flapper setup unless there were some odd ball transition versions. Certainly if I was asked for a 3.9 loom I'd expect it to be a hotwire version.

I think Daan's suggestion of a V belt is the cheapest, simplest and least labour intensive. You can buy V belts in almost any length and any thickness and having a bit of "give" in them keeps the bolts tight. Being a continuous item it will also help keep carp and water out.

The holes for the lights on the rear are also smaller on the earlier cappings, this means you either have to fit earlier lights (the type with the bullet connector fly leads) or cut the holes in the capping out to the larger size and either galvanise them or use a zinc primer to protect the edges of the new holes.

You CAN do it that way but you would be better to use a relay for the starter solenoid as the solenoid can take a decent current to operate and the auto box inhibitor switch is not cheap to replace if you burn it out. From, I think, around the 300TDi era Land Rover started using a relay to operate the starter solenoid as it also provides an easy way to immobilise the starter and reduces the current through the ignition switch start position contacts. Not saying it won't work without a relay, it will and many early vehicles didn't have a starter relay, just to me it's an unnecessary strain on fragile components.

There are two types of switch, the earlier type are adjustable, using a lock nut, and have two terminals on the switch. The later type (TD5 onwards I think) aren't adjustable and have 2 wires bonded into them that then go to a connector. The diff lock switch on the later type has a small electrical connector so you can get a ring spanner over it but it stops you getting a socket on it. Sounds like you have the early type with the terminals on, once you've "cracked" the lock nut they normally wind in/out by hand IF you can get your fingers in.

Not sure I follow, have you attached the external resistor ? By providing power to the centre pin of the IAC and a resistor to earth on one of the outer pins, the IAC will close (assuming you've connected the correct pin to the resistor. If it opens then you have connected the resistor the the wrong pin. The three pin IAC is like a 2 way motor, 12v on the middle pin and it will move one way or the other depending on which side has the best earth. The resistor on the "closed" side acts like an electrical spring, trying to return the IAC to a closed position if there is no input from the ECU. The ECU uses a series of pulses to momentarily connect the "open" pin to earth, the higher the ratio/percentage of earth pulses, the further open the IAC moves against the "spring" provided by the other side. Once you have the IAC closing when power is connected to the centre pin (via the ignition) then you can start trying to open it with the PWM "output" from the MS. The PWM settings are a bit of a pain to get right and will depend on the version of the MS firmware and software you are using. You can use a low power 12v bulb (sidelight bulb, for example) to test the output from the ECU by connecting it between a 12v supply on one side and earthing through the ECU IAC pin. The bulb will light up at it's brightest when the IAC would be fully open, the bulb will be at it's dimmest/off when the IAC would be closed. I'll be honest, I've never bothered using PWM on these types of IAC, preferring instead to just use them as a cold start on/off valve using the MS to open the IAC when the engine is cold, I then restrict the airflow through the IAC mechanically by restricting the air pipes to it.

Probably nothing to do with it as you don't mention when/how the problem started... BUT, last time I saw this was as a result of the diff lock switch being too far in so worth removing the switch and seeing if that helps before delving any deeper.

Admittedly it's a few years ago now, so things may have changed, but when I looked into converting my 10 spline ARBs to 24 spline it was going to cost about £120 each to convert. It was cheaper to buy two new ARBs and sell on the 10 spline versions. These days I'd look at selling the ARBs and buying new Ashcroft lockers rather than trying to convert the ARBs.

Which type of IAC is it ? The Thor IAC is a 3 wire one that can be driven from Megasquirt as a PWM IAC with the addition of a resistor. The Hotwire IAC is a 4 wire stepper that can be driven from MS2 but not MS1 without additional hardware. The Flapper IAC is a 2 wire bimetal electro mechanical one which just needs a 12v supply from the ignition.

I'd agree with Compushift being the answer, I've used it both on my 4L80E box on the back of an LSx and an HP24 box on the back of a TD5. The 4L80E has been fitted since 2007 and the Compushift has proved to be very robust considering the abuse the vehicle has had in that time as a challenge and trials competition motor. I do have the intention, time allowing, to try setting up MegaShift for the HP24 at some point as I've built my own and other peoples MegaSquirt ECUs since around 2002 and the MegaShift is a much simpler build. The downside with MegaShift is that, by comparison with both Compushift and MegaSquirt, there isn't the depth of knowledge available so you have to do a LOT of the work yourself when it comes to setting it all up - that is gradually improving though. MegaShift is the cheap option where you will pay in time rather than money, Compushift is expensive for what it is BUT you get an option that pretty much works out of the box. Either way I would not run an Auto gearbox on a Defender, especially off the back of a TD5, that I couldn't change the shift patterns on. Auto boxes will work OK with a "standard" shift pattern but changed wheel sizes, transfer box ratios etc... all can make the shift pattern clunky and degrade the driving experience. There's nothing more annoying than a box that won't cruise properly because it's constantly shifting gears, particularly where the vehicle is higher geared than the original use (Defender is nearly always higher geared than a Disco due to tyre sizes, more so when "upgraded" to a 1.2 transfer box). Hydraulic boxes will work OK but you'll never get the best driving experience with them unless it's been valved for your vehicle and driving style and I suspect that would cost far more than a Compushift !

The most reliable way to get the correct position is to offer up the engine and gearbox with the engine crane, bolt the gearbox mounts up, bolt the new mounts to the engine loosely and tack/weld them onto the chassis. The height of the mounts you can see from the pic above but the front/back position can vary from chassis to chassis. If you are using the V8 style gearbox mounts with the slotted plates that bolt to the three holes through the chassis, make sure the bolts are central in the slots. With the V8 mounts you can pretty much weld them in with the engine in situ although it's obviously a lot easier to weld if you tack them and then pull the engine back out.