Dave W

Not sure what, if any difference there is between the seals TBH, I wouldn't have thought it would be that difficult to use a later type as they are identical in size. I've never had to replace the seal and you get new ones with the hatch. As far as I can see the only difference would be the small cutout areas for the mechanism - nothing that careful use of a sharp knife couldn't fix. There are a few places still selling the seals including Craddocks btw.

Have you looked at the military sun roof/escape hatch ? Exactly the same size and fitting as a standard Defender sun roof but with a removable aluminium cover instead of the glass one on a sun roof. Pics here... http://landytravels.com/2013/03/escape-hatch-and-spare-wheel-carrier

have you removed the wiper blades and arms ? (or at least pulled them off the windscreen) To pull the motor out complete with the rack (wire) the wiper spindles need to spin freely so the rack can move. You can also "wind" the rack out by turning the spindles anti-clockwise (if the rack is below the spindle)

I think you're missing the point, engine monitoring systems aren't there to show you how to drive, they're there to warn you if something goes out of it's normal operating range. in the case of EGT, it can give you the first signs of a number of different problems with the engine and hopefully allow you to do something about it before a catastrophic failure occurs. It's similar to monitoring coolant temp, oil pressure, oil temp etc... not really useful when everything is running correctly but the sooner you know one of them is going out of it's normal operating area the better. Especially on an overland vehicle where it's better to limp back to civilisation carefully than be oblivious to the problem until something goes bang and leaves you stranded.

Scarily enough... it uses two stainless steel self tapping screws that you screw into the plastic expansion tank about 30mm apart and 10mm below the normal level. One side connects to earth so I assume they use a weak pull up and get enough conduction through the coolant to take it low when there is coolant present. Here's a pic... On metal expansion tanks obviously you'd need to use a float switch.

For anyone that wants an engine monitor and doesn't want to build it themselves, I can strongly recommend the Madman EMS. I fitted one to my TD5 and it measures Coolant temperature, coolant level in the expansion tank, Exhaust Gas Temperature, engine oil pressure, battery voltage, transfer box oil temperature and hours used. All of them can have alarm levels set for either hi or lo values and it records maximum values. It can also drive a relay or sound a buzzer alarm for one or all of the alarm levels. It can replace the existing coolant temp gauge and can either come as a kit for your vehicle or you can build your own kit of sensors (it uses VDO sensors). Only down side is I could only get it direct from the manufacturer in South Africa. For the TD5 kit I got it came with all the adaptors and fitting kit so the EGT probe came with a modified EGR blanking plate that the probe fitted into, the oil pressure sender comes with a braided extension hose that moves the sender away from the turbo heat. Fitted it in a day and the only problem I had was with the oil pressure sender setup which seemed to have been sent with the wrong T piece but fortunately I had a suitable adaptor in my toolbox. http://www.landyonlineretail.co.za - web site is woefully SLOW but gets there eventually !

When we've shipped in the past we've always used our own straps (in fact we've always packed/loaded the container ourselves, using our own chocks, straps etc...). We can leave the straps etc.. at the freight handler in Sydney, they're a really good company and the staff know what they are doing. They'll then use them for the return trip if we don't pack the container ourselves for the return. As this will be the third time we've shipped we've now found an agent at the Australian end that we've got confidence in after they "rescued" our vehicles from the incompetent agent we'd used previously. They do a lot of motor sport shipping so are pretty competent (F1, V8s, MotoGP etc...). The 90 is 2.1 metres without the RTT (including roll cage) and 2.5 with the RTT on it unladen. It doesn't drop much when full loaded, maybe 30mm or so. The suspension is tuned for when it's fully loaded so is a bit stiff unladen but is good (and comfortable !) on the rough stuff when loaded. We did look at a high cube container but the cost was prohibitive. It's only 4 bolts to undo the RTT albeit that 2 of them are a PITA to get to, I can get it bolted up in about 30 mins if the brackets are already mounted on the cage. The shipping agent staff will give us a hand to lift it on/off the vehicle, it's not particularly heavy but is bulky and ungainly to handle. We can get it on/off ourselves at home using a winch and some straps and have "helicopter tape" on the top of the roll cage to allow us to slide it on without damaging the roll cage finish. http://landytravels.com/2013/03/back-on-the-roof/

I think most of the basics have been covered, the only thing I'd add in regard to the RTT "debate" is that, IMV, a RTT moves the bulky but light stuff onto the roof freeing up room inside (and lower down) for heavier stuff. On a big vehicle this is less of an issue but we're planning a 4-6 month tour next year in a 90, in a vehicle that small everything has to justify it's place ! The only downside we've found with our RTT is that it can be noisy in high winds, especially if you park side on to the wind instead of pointing the front of the motor into it. You also need to be pretty agile both to get in and out of it but also to pack it away. Sleeping inside isn't an option for a 90 Not had a problem with bugs/dust on the cover but that may be a design thing as the cover on ours comes off the back and we normally "throw" it off the back from the sides. We're running a blog that covers our preparations for the big adventure, might be something of use on it... http://landytravels.com/ I'll know by this time next year if we got it right or not We're shipping in a container so a bit limited on height, the RTT will ship on a pallet in the container.

You can use a TD5 tank and use it with a Disco 300TDi sender unit with an external pump. The 300TDi sender unit (from a plastic tank) is a straight swap for the TD5 one and has a supply pipe, a return pipe and the level sender built in. It uses a sprung lower section to ensure the pickup pipe is on the bottom of the tank. No problem running it with petrol or diesel. I use this setup with mine using two tanks with an electric changeover valve that changes the supply, return and level sender over simultaneously, controlled from a switch on the dashboard. I use a single external pump on the engine side of the changeover valve. You can't fit a disco tank to a 90.

Not used them but I might have a spare switch kicking around in the garage if you're stuck for one.

Yes, the Ashcroft conversion kit uses the discovery pipes and oil cooler. If buying new you might want to look at their prices as, from what I remember, they were supplying the oil cooler kit (oil cooler and the pipes) for less than I could buy the same items from the genuine suppliers I looked at.

That looks about right to me, the two flanges aren't supposed to meet on the olive style connections, it allows you some adjustment in angle and position. The important thing is that there are no leaks.

Fuel cooler, one side of it sits between the fuel regulator and the fuel tank as part of the return circuit. It uses the coolant (other two pipes) to reduce the fuel temperature as it's quite hot when it leaves the cylinder head.

The Pollak 6 port motorised valve works really well, I used one for my dual tank setup (TD5) although I also used two fillers so the two tanks are completely independent. It swaps the feed, return and fuel tank sender over using a switch on the dashboard.

I ran a single point LPG system alongside MegaSquirt for several years. For simplicity I'd keep the LPG system as a standalone system and use MS in dual map mode. If you hook the map switch input up to the LPG solenoid circuit whenever the LPG system is activated/deactivated the MS automatically changes maps. You can configure the MS to switch both fuel and ignition with a different ignition curve for each fuel and simply zero the fuel map for LPG. The map switching can be phased in over a couple of seconds, giving a really smooth change from one fuel to the other. This has the extra advantage that you don't need injector isolators that normally are used for LPG systems to stop the petrol injection.

No, it won't. The BW transfer box has a shorter nose so the front prop shaft is a few inches longer. The rear prop shaft should still fit. Having said that, that's from my own experience with changing from LT230 to BW, I've had conversations with other people who have said that on theirs the rear prop was different ! If I were you I'd take a tape measure to it and if you don't have the original prop shafts try and find another vehicle to measure

Yes, the handbrake drums are interchangeable. You can also use the RRC drum that comes with the Borg Warner transfer box if you have a 300TDi handbrake and cable. I've used all sorts of combinations and they can pretty much all be made to work. The TD5 handbrake and cable setup will only really work with a TD5 drum without a lot of faffing about.

It's the first time it's been held there. Previously the "Spring Adventure" was held at Driffield which was OK but not the most pleasant of surroundings. It should be a good show at Harrogate, it's a good show ground normally. I'll be there, manning our club stand

Not sure when they changed from welded captive nuts on the axle to just a hole for a nut and bolt. If the axle is early enough I vaguely remember the captive nuts being 3/8 UNC. If you just have the two holes in the axle plate then as above, M10 x 25 is correct. My 1990 RRC had captive nuts and it was always an "interesting" exercise trying to get the bolts out of them without shearing them off and then if you did shear them off you had to drill the bolt out.

NRC9700 for the spring seats and you'll also need NTC6106, retaining plates.

White/purple is normally power for the fuel pump, maybe it's not used on yours ?

Bin the TD5 filter, use a 300TDi filter instead between the pump and the engine. It's the same filter just with a different head that has a single input and a single output. You can also use the water sensor with it if you really want to. It's quite happy running at the pressures involved. As far as I can see the TD5 fuel system is unnecessarily complex with it's use of 2 pumps and a filter/swirl pot arrangement with two stages. I'm not sure what the thinking was behind it, maybe they were being over paranoid as it was their first EFi style arrangement on a diesel and they wanted a "belt and braces" design. Either way the fuel pump arrangement has hardly proved to be the most reliable part of the setup as a result. I think with the original system you probably get less chance of air getting in as the high pressure side is sort of a closed system with an air bleed but iI don't think the TD5 engine setup is particularly sensitive to air, certainly no more than a petrol EFi is. If anything the design having the regulator after the injectors should make it less sensitive than an EFi with a fuel rail beyond the regulator. I'm assuming they mounted the fuel filter/swirl pot in that stupid position to save money on pipework given they had to run so many pipes from the tank to the filter so putting it in the engine bay would have cost too much (or the low pressure pump wasn't up to it). I binned the lot, mounting the fuel pump (with a pre-filter) on top of the chassis rail under the seatbox, 300TDi filter housing in the engine compartment and return from the fuel cooler straight back to the tank return. No problems so far, been running like that for over a year. It's also made the prospect/design of a twin tank setup with a changeover valve MUCH simpler as the valve is between the pump and the tanks - imagine trying that on a factory TD5 setup !

I've used standard EFi fuel hose for mine, 8mm i/d IIRC. The TD5 works at around the same pressure as an EFi so EFi fuel hoses work fine with it. Probably too late for you now but there's no need to use a factory pump with the TD5, they work just fine with an external EFi pump (Bosch 044) and the original 200TDi tank fittings.

Marix any good to you ? http://www.newlifetyresonline.com/ They're manufactured by Marix in Italy, I've used them since Colway/Greenway went under.

It's a "switch" that sits on the side of the gearbox around the selector arm. It tells the ECU what position the arm is in so it knows what gear you've selected. The switch, the connector for it and the wiring loom itself are all prone to failure, the latter normally caused by chafing. One possible indication of a problem is the gear indicator LEDs not lighting up correctly when you move the gear selector.